Beverly Hillbillies

Vehicles and items that do not fall into the general M151 categories

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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 7th, 2020, 12:39 pm

Ok, today's post is going to be a bit about techniques when it comes to removing stubborn Jeep hub/drum combos. These are the style of drums that are 'nailed' to the back of the hubs by the lugs. Far different than our mighty M151s.

Yesterday, I tore into an old jeep front axle I've had laying around for a year because I was hoping to salvage some usable spindles. This axle was given to me by another fella who had it laying around for many years and when he had it, it was always laying on the ground so externally (meaning within the drums) it was pretty well locked up.

To give you a sense of what I was up against, when I finally got the first drum off, easily two cups of terra firma incognita came out. I know. You're going to say I'm given to hyperbole but in this case, this is exactly what I was dealing with. As you might imagine, that drum just didn't want to come off....and it was about 100 degrees outside, and I was sweating bullets and there was just no relief from any of it; a pretty miserable situation.
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My normal method of removing hub/drum combinations doesn't involve much deep thought. The process begins with a simple test. Does the hub/drum turn? If not, be prepared for a battle. I have a big monstrous puller but it has never really demonstrated its worth. I just put a copper mallet against the outer flange of the drum and strike it with a fairly heavy steel hammer and just repeat this around the circumference of the drum on opposing sides. The copper mallet serves to protect the drum.

Something else to consider is that this particular project is a steering axle so it is advantageous to ensure the energy of your efforts aren't wasted by allowing the workpiece to move. If the axle is out of the vehicle and you have no other method of anchoring the steering knuckle then just make sure it's hard over in the direction of the hammer blow. I know. That's a lot of back and forth and a bit of a pain (especially with the thermometer hovering at 100 degrees). All of this sounds like a pretty straightforward proposition so far. With a healthy axle, it is. Trouble is, I'm not dealing with a healthy axle.

Removing the outer bearing can help or hinder depending upon how tight those shoes are to the drum. If the hub is kept generally in parallel with the brake backing plate (and for God's sake, don't pry against the backing plate!) this usually yields the best results but that also assumes everything is fairly normal inside that drum (and you know what happens when you assume). Allowing that hub to get off-angle can really hang the drum up on the shoes.

However, if the outer bearing is removed, allowing the hub/drum to get off-angle CAN have a benefit in that it will assist in breaking up whatever has settled in between the shoes and the drum (in this case a whole lot of dirt). So it's a trade-off. The point is - being prepared to keep an open mind and try it both ways may be the best path to success.

Earlier, I talked about the eccentric adjusters and how, with proper adjustment, a shoe can be brought into very close proximity to the drum. If you're lucky enough to encounter an axle with brakes that are not close to the drum (or are not otherwise packed with debris) things usually go well. But when it comes to this particular job, I am a pessimist (and pessimists are rarely disappointed).

This one was really hung up, which accounts for the lack of pictures. No real chance at getting the lower adjusters loose which really only left the option of hoping for some luck with the upper adjusters which were equally as locked up but far more accessible. So I did two things. I got my favorite 1/2"-9/16" offset box-end wrench (my favorite tool off all time) and gave the upper adjusters a Mister America tug. The nuts didn't loosen but they did turn and by golly, if I have to risk sacrificing a $2.95 adjuster to salvage a $70 spindle, I'm all in. I'd call that a bargain.

So, how does one know how that little bugger is oriented since the eccentrics are hidden from view? Well, we know that the little adjusting tab (which can be seen) is aligned with the maximum and minimum sides of the lobe but they don't have the markings that the larger eccentrics do.
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So you can (a) assume the eccentric setting you began with is going to be exerting the most pressure against the shoe's foundation, so it would follow that turning it at or about 180 degrees would allow the shoe to be at its most relaxed position. Or (b) if you forgot to look first and just jumped in with the wrench, you can remove the outer bearing, lay a hand on the drum and the edge of the brake backing plate at a point closest to the adjuster and turn the adjuster and feel for outward movement of the drum. Obviously, if the drum nudges outward thats the high side of the eccentric's lobe and it needs to be turned back to the low side to achieve the best clearance.

I finally got them off (in fact I took the steering knuckles and axles as well) and happily, came up with some fairly good parts. All of this scavenging has the added benefit of making the donor axle one heck of a lot lighter (fully assembled jeep steering axles are exceptionally heavy, considering their size). There was a fair bit of lubricant still present in the steering knuckles and happily no water...something I wouldn't have bet on, considering where these had been. Still a lot of axle work to be done but at this point, I think I'm ready to change gears yet again and get back to some other projects. Stay tuned!

Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 9th, 2020, 11:52 am

Got The Doom Buggy off the jack stands yesterday because the next step is getting under the rear suspension (which we all know is, by design, actually a front end) in order to re-do the brake lines.

and that meant putting the jack stands away....

along with 8 big blocks of wood that they had been sitting on to make for additional height with less extension on the jack stands....

and all for the purpose of putting wheels and tires back on so I would have room to work underneath it without fear of being crushed....

and that meant rounding up the old wheels and tires from the Alley Cat because the 'original' civvy tires were toast....

and that meant scavenging two MUTT wheels/tires from the front end assembly that had formerly been under the Alley Cat....

so I had to replace those with two M151 wheels I had laying around so that it didn't sit directly on the ground....

and since all these manky old Alley Cat wheels were about to get put up against my pretty brake drums....

that meant re-dressing the interior surfaces of the wheels with a cupped wire brush and some metal prep....

and since one of those Alley Cat tires wasn't holding air well that meant getting my portable air tank out....

along with my auto dollies because I was sure that particular tire would go flat again....

and that also meant also giving my auto dollies a bath since they were a mess....

and that meant whipping up a bucket of ZEP for the job because I knew I'd also be using it on some of those greasy parts I scavenged on the Jeep axle project....

and also using it to clean the portable air tank which looked like it was covered with the plague....

and by the time I was done, I was beat because it was BLOODY HOT.

(An actual photo of my work area and some guy who stopped by to see how I was doing. Said he had a "bargain" for me....but I said I was too busy to talk to him.)
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After a really cold shower to get my body's core temperature down to somewhere below boiling, I spent the rest of the day drinking fluids and trying to get my blood pressure back to something vaguely life-sustaining. Getting old stinks.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by rickf » June 9th, 2020, 4:28 pm

Wait till you get as old as me! Or even worse, as old as Seabee!!!!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
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12/1952 M100- Departed
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 9th, 2020, 10:02 pm

I'm convinced I'm not going to make it that far...

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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 11th, 2020, 2:30 pm

Nice day out today. Brought the MUTT up into the driveway and did a four-wheel brake inspection. I've had a balky brake for some time on this truck which would seem to sort itself out after a short run and I've had a pedal that was reluctant to return to the neutral position.

I found two issues on the right front. One - evidence that the front shoe was drifting over against the brake drum ever so slightly. I manipulated the shoe and found it was easy to move side to side. Close inspection of the alignment spring revealed it had stretched, probably during the last installation. Not a fatal issue but really not right. And this illustrates my stated reluctance to reuse smaller springs. So that got replaced immediately rather than risk losing another alignment spring anchor.
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I also observed a balky wheel cylinder up front ; one that was slow and reluctant to return to the retracted position. Naughty wheel cylinder. Naughty-naughty-naughty. The bonded brake shoes were at approximately 1/2 thickness throughout the vehicle. So between the shoe-wear and my desire to replace the wheel cylinder (after all, why repair when they are really dirt cheap ...considering their utility) I'm going to replace ALL the shoes and BOTH front wheel cylinders. The general rule for brakes is - always replace in pairs-per-axle group.

I suspect this will cure the pedal return issue. If not, we may be looking at replacing a master cylinder but the one I'm running isn't really all that old and it maintains a good firm pressure.

(Deja vu. Hmm...Seems like i was just doing this on The Doom Buggy..)

Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by rickf » June 11th, 2020, 4:24 pm

You know that a slow returning wheel cylinder can also be a restricted brake line, usually a degraded rubber line.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 11th, 2020, 5:09 pm

Yup. But I already have that covered.

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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 8:32 pm

Another lovely day today. Warm, breezy, lovely for wrenching. Wanna repack some rear wheel bearings the easy way? Okay! Let's go.

What you'll need -

A small mountain of disposable rags (you have been cutting up old tee shirts and saving them, right?)
A tub of quality wheel bearing grease (I'll be using Mobile1 synthetic)
A wheel chock (two is better)
PB Blaster
A flavor injector for meat
A box fan
A wire wheel
A lug wrench
A large piece of sidewalk chalk (any color)
A pair of pliers
Several cotter pins
A reliable jack (or two)
Several large blocks of wood
A Henweigh
A hammer
A frosty adult beverage (or two)
A large brass drift
More disposable rags
A place to dispose of disposable rags
A 1-1/4" socket and a tool to use it
A 1/2" open end wrench
A tray of ice cubes
A torque wrench
and..
A leaf blower

Ready? Here we go..

Take the leaf blower and clean your work area. All the little pill bugs, the little piles of grass the cat hucked up, the cat who did the hucking, bits of gravel (that you would otherwise find with your knee) and all the dribbly stuff nature sees fit to deposit on your driveway..all blown away leaving you a nice unobstructed place to work.

Chock the front wheels (Really? REALLY?!...you were expecting a picture of wheel chocks? Why are you even reading this? Get a LIFE, man!)
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Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the wheel and the brake drum
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Set up the fan. Okay, we're ready for that first frosty adult beverage. Contemplate this bit for precisely three gulps of whatever you're having and realize it would have been far easier to remove the jam nut if you had done it before removing the wheel and tire.
This is not the time for a face-palm. Do that later when you have wheel bearing grease on your hands.

Remove jam nut with the large brass drift and hammer...lefty loosy. If the center bit comes with it, that's ok. If the jam nut is frozen on the center bit, clean up the threads with a wire wheel, dose it with PB Blaster, put it in a vice and work the jam nut loose toward the clean threads....and remember, if you have the thing flipped over and chucked up in a vice now it will be righty loosy. I know. I know. At this moment, so many of you have your head tilted back, looking up and to the left and drawing little circles in the air with your index finger trying to access that part of your brain to verify what I just said. It's okay. Settle down and just trust me on this one.
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Take note, when reinstalling this bit, replace it as you see here - which means having the jam nut with all threads engaged and generally flush with the face of the center bit. There is no advantage to having extra threads exposed. All that does is allow them to grab dirt, grime, water and that promotes rust.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 8:57 pm

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Lower the control arm onto the wood blocks and move the jack to the opposite control arm. Here's what you need next. Having a small container for the little parts will be very helpful.
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You may notice that the castellated nut is up against the cotter pin. This is actually a good sign because, done properly, the final adjustment on the castellated nut is actually finger-tight. I know..crazy, right? This also makes a good argument for using a NEW cotter pin when you finally button everything up. Back the nut off the cotter pin using the 1-1/4" socket. See if you can do it by hand. If you can, this is actually a VERY good sign. Remove the cotter pin.
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Loosen, but do not remove the castellated nut.
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Now lift the opposite axle with the jack. This will allow you to easily rotate the axle drive shaft on the side you're working on. I used the tire as a big hand wheel to rotate things.

Move over to the differential and remove the four nuts, lock washers and u-bolts holding the axle drive shaft to the yoke. In this photo you will see that removing the bottom u-bolt would be very difficult where it is, due to the angle of the shaft. We left the castellated nut in place because you will be rotating the axle drive shaft in order to make this job as easy as possible.
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Now is a great time to use those ice cubes. Some nice, cold water would really hit the spot. Hydrate or die!
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 9:28 pm

Are you STILL here? REALLY? Well, alrighty then! See these caps? They're filled with little candy sprinkles just like you used to get on your ice cream cone from Dairy Queen. No, seriously. This is actually where they come from! Mmmmm.. So delicious! Wanna see inside?
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No! You DO NOT want to see inside! Not now anyway. Secure the caps with blue painter's tape or similarly. We don't want to lose even one morsel of the delicious goodness hidden inside. Ok, well, arguably you will want to look inside these at some point just to examine them for excessive wear and that inspection would include actually wiping off the post that the candy sprinkles roll on (no snacking, please) so that you can more clearly see its condition. But do that when the shaft is completely out of there and laid out on a rag or a towel.

Remove the castellated nut.
Remove the washer behind the nut.
Remove the drive flange and set it aside. It will come out with the bearing still on it. If it fights you in any way, you have big troubles ahead. And if you DO have 'big troubles' don't call me about it because I have SML (selective memory loss) and I won't have any idea what you're talking about.

In this case, all is well. Remove the axle drive shaft in this way -

Lay the axle drive shaft on the control arm then tip it up at the u-joint knuckle.
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This angle will allow you to come out of the hub. 'Straight out' doesn't work because the u-joint knuckle will not move straight between the spring and bumper.
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I did not tape up the caps in these photos in order to illustrate the strong possibility that the caps may come off while you are manipulating the assembly. Caps that have been starved of grease are particularly sketchy and are VERY likely to fall off. If you have nothing with which to secure the caps, keep your hand on that end. Of course you will forget and then you will have to scramble around on all fours (in full view of the public) whilst trying to find all the candy morsels that fell out. People will point at you and laugh and maybe you'll even end up on the internet (# EpicFailure). But hey...some people's only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others. Don't be that guy.

By the way, in the exact center of this photo you may see a small protuberance located on the inner face of the yoke. That is actually a valve and it is THE MOST IMPORTANT and MOST IGNORED AND OVERLOOKED PART of the axle drive shafts. You will often find this valve caked over and immobilized with hardened grease and if that is allowed to happen the result is the axle drive shaft will not be able to expand and contract as required by movements of the suspension. And that, dear reader, will wreak havoc will all sorts of expensive things in your driveline. Keep it clean and moving freely....ALWAYS.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 10:12 pm

Moving right along... We have to get that inner bearing and seal out. Lay one of those rags on the control arm up next to the hub. Using the brass drift and hammer, tap on the inside of the inner bearing and push it and the inner grease seal out of the hub and it will fall onto your rag. Remove.

Now is the time for a good cleanup. Take the rags and the Henweigh and remove as much old grease as you can from the interior of the hub and the outer grease seal (which can remain on the hub). So the same with the inner grease seal and the bearing on the flange. Examine the bearings and races for unusual wear. Older bearings and races may show wear but still be perfectly serviceable if properly repacked.

But here's the sticking point for most M151 owners. They hate, hate HATE facing the issue of repacking the bearing on the flange because it requires a special (and unusually expensive) tool to remove it. Soooooo -

DONT! (because ol' TJ has a very special trick to share with you...)
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Woo Hoo! It's time for the flavor injector! (...and you thought I was kidding!)

Take your flavor injector (this one cost me less than $3.00) and cut the tip of the needle off. Then ensure it is free from burrs and loose bits of metal from the cutting process and flatten it slightly.
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Pack it with bearing grease..
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...and inject your favorite flavor of grease directly into the bearing between the rollers until grease comes out the top and the bottom. Work your way around the circumference of the bearing until it is fully packed. Wipe off the old grease that might have been pushed out. Do NOT wipe away the overflow of new grease. Just spread it around on the bearing and up the shaft. It's all going in.

When you're done with this miraculous little tool just compress the leftover grease out of it, wipe off the outside, put a little protection over the tip and put it in a quart-sized ziploc bag for later. Cleaning it out is a total waste of time. It's gonna get greasy again next time you use it. And if this little miracle isn't enough, later when someone at the MV-Jamboree waves one under your nose and asks you, "Do you know what this is?" you will say, "Yup..it's a wheel bearing grease packer thingy...and I've been using one for years." Sound annoyingly superior and be really snooty about it. (Telling a little white lie from time to time is ok.)
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Repack the inner bearing and get some grease on the face of the rollers. This will help it stick when you put it in.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 10:34 pm

Now, since you've been at this for hours and since it's later (and hotter) in the day and since I know you've been hard at the frosty adult beverages, take the sidewalk chalk and somewhere close to your work space write an emergency contact number so that if passers by find you face down on the concrete they'll know who to call. And who knows, if you're just laying there, intoxicated, maybe some smartass will come along and draw a chalk outline around your body after relieving you of your wallet. If you wake up and find that...well, maybe it's time to lay off the sauce. Either way, having chalk on hand is good.

And by the way, try to avoid using black sidewalk chalk. That same guy who took your wallet will probably also put a little Hitler mustache under your nose with it. Again, you have been warned.

Now it's time to put some extra grease around the inside of the hub. The TM calls for it and extra grease is almost always good but don't fill every millimeter of the hub with grease. Nobody likes an extremist. A tiny bit goes on the seal-face of the grease seal.
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Now install the inner wheel bearing (which will stick nicely since you've repacked and covered it in grease....and install the inner grease seal. You can reach up through the lower control arm through that useful little hole and hold it with two fingers while gently tapping it in place with a soft mallet. I know I shouldn't have to say this but once it is starting to go in you CAN remove your fingers instead of hitting them with the mallet. Just sayin'.

As it goes into place the blows will sound dull. When fully seated it will sound very different...more like a 'clack' noise. Then wipe a tiny bit of grease on the grease face of the inner grease seal.
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I saw no reason to remove the overflow grease from my packing efforts on the bearing on the flange. I simply swept it up onto the throat of the flange.
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Place the axle drive shaft assembly into the hub (as formerly described) leaving the shaft laying on the control arm (and you WILL secure those caps, won't you?) and grasping it firmly on the inner side of the hub, reintroduce the drive flange to the axle drive shaft on the outer side of the hub.
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Grease, as I have placed it, will create a temporary seal and the trapped air will pose some resistance as the air inside the hub will have very little place to go. Put it on as far as it will allow (it will feel a bit spongy) and install the large washer and castellated nut. See how this flange is sticking out before tightening it down?
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by m3a1 » June 12th, 2020, 11:06 pm

Draw the drive flange down by hand using the socket until it is firmly seated. Do NOT tighten it super tight.

Reattach the universal joint to the yoke with the u-bolts after you have cleaned them. Check to ensure that the lock washers are in good condition, not flattened or cracked. Flat lock washers don't lock. Cracked lock washers will break apart. If a lock washer cracks, sooner or later it will find a way to go who-knows-where, leaving you with a loose u-bolt and a fouled up u-joint....all for want of a .5 cents lock washer. Replace worn or compromised hardware as necessary and prudent. Rotate the axle drive shaft so that you can get to all the nuts with the best advantage. Tightening these off-angle almost always results in a rounded-off nut. Using nuts that are caked in filth almost always results in a rounded-off nut. (Right about now I could make an offhand joke about the only place you would actually want rounded-off nuts but this is a family forum so I will just leave that alone.)
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Reinstall the wheel/tire. Using the torque wrench, tighten the castellated nut to 30 ft-lbs. Rotate the wheel three times. Recheck torque. Repeat the turn & recheck until the torque setting of 30 ft-lbs remains unchanged, then back the castellated nut off and retighten 'finger tight'. Err on the side of 'a little bit tighter' if you must adjust the nut to expose the hole for the cotter pin but do not tighten down too hard. Use the socket by hand if you must but keep a light touch. Also, keep in mind there are TWO sets of holes available for the cotter pin so huge changes in the placement of the castellated nut are completely unnecessary.
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I was using cotter pins that were just a little bit too long because that is what I have on hand. If you find yourself in a similar situation, use the pliers to bend it into a banana shape. As it goes in simply straighten it up a bit at a time and you will find it goes in surprisingly well.
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Replace the hub cap and jam nut as previously described.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by rickf » June 13th, 2020, 8:03 am

Very well written and I like the sidewalk chalk bit. Now, I know you are waiting for it so here it is, what the hell is a henweigh? I even looked it up and came up with the urban dictionary version of tear gassing the people. I don't think that is it.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: Beverly Hillbillies

Unread post by D Pizzoferrato » June 13th, 2020, 8:45 am

rickf wrote:
June 13th, 2020, 8:03 am
what the hell is a henweigh?
C'mon Rick. About 3 lbs.
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