new coil and solid state ingnition and no start

[incoming]

Well guys, I'm new to this forum and sure ain't no mechanic. I posted pictures of my MUTT here but unfortunately she is not running at this time. She ran great when I bought her a month ago, and last week I left the ignition switch on over the weekend. Since that time I have charged the batteries, replaced the solid state ignition with a Swiss Control NOS one and I put a new coil in just in case. The old coil and new one checked out the same when I ohm'd them but I put the new one in anyway. Now she turns over but will not start. I simply do not know what to do next. I was very careful putting the new solid state ignition and coil in, and am sure I got everything hooked up right. Am very disappointed and would appreciate any suggestions on what to do next. Thanks for any help!

[old dodge guy]

Well, it sounds like we to start with some basics.
1. Do you have spark anywhere? Remove spark plug from block, reattach wire, hold against block, look for spark when engine is turning.....probably will need helper. Beware of spark "biting" you. It is an experience you will not soon forget.
At least you WILL know if the spark is working.
2. Are the plug wires attached to the right plugs, that is.....is each wire on the distributor going to the right spark plug in the head?
Let us know if you have spark, then we can give better advice. Right now, we are guessing along with you, if you have spark, then we can go to step 2 in troubleshooting.

[Hambone]

Pat,
Make sure you are getting 24v to the coil with the ignition on.

[incoming]

Two great places for me to start tomorrow after church, and I will report back to you guys. Have kept the plug wires numbered for indexing and they are where they were when she ran. My sincerest gratitude to you both. Drop by sometime Hambone!

[incoming]

OK, guys. Went out to the shop after church to check 24v to the coil and for fire at the plug........and the batteries were dead. Was dumbfounded since they have drained twice on me since leaving the ignition on. After looking around a bit, figured out what the problems for the dead batteries was. I was fiddling with the PRC 75 and left it on (it is still hooked up but does not function properly). I think the radio switch has been on since the ignition was left on, no wonder the batteries won't hold a charge. So, I am charging the batteries and will try both of the suggestions you made, then get back to you.

[rickf]

Once batteries are drained below 11 volts they are pretty much shot but when drained completely dead they are never going to come back to full service and most likely will never hold a charge. Check them individually since one will probably hold better than the other and the worse one will drag down the better one but they will need to be replaced as a pair.

[incoming]

Thanks Rick,
I still have not had time to check for fire in the plugs or 24V at the coil. Will do so and report back as soon as possible. It really sucks not being able to drive my new MUTT, and worse having to figure out what is wrong the the darned thing. I just thought for sure that a new soild state ignition (Swiss Control) and a new coil would fix my mistake, but alas, it is not to be! And now I may have to replace both batteries. Jeeeeeeeez. Hopefully, with the kind assistance of you guys, we will get this figured out and I will be able to drive my piece of history!

[Fil Bonica]

51R batteries are a good civy replacement for the GI units.
Maybe that helps.

Fil Bonica

[incoming]

Thanks for the tip on new batteries Fil. Is 51R a specific size and type of battery, made by various companies?
Here is the long awaited verdict.......drum roll please................the engine turns over easily, however, there is no spark to the plug I tested. And with the ignition on, there is not 24 volts to the coil (I measured post to post, and then from each post to the center). Remember gentlemen, I replaced the solid state ignition and coil last week, and yes, they are hooked up correctly, and the plug wires are sequenced properly. So where are we now on the process of elimination?

[rickf]

A 51R is a Honda civic/ accord battery for many years.
When checking for voltage at the coil check the wire coming in from the distributor input to the coil which should be the positive terminal. Put your positive lead on that and negative lead on any ground. Checking for terminal to terminal is not going to give any reading since voltage will be the same at both terminals.

[rickf]

And if you get 24 volts from the plus terminal to ground then check the minus terminal to ground, if no reading then turn off switch, disconnect the minus wire from coil and turn switch back on. You should now get 24 volts from minus to ground. If not coil is bad. If you have 24 volts at the wire before it goes into the distributor but not at the plus of the coils then the input capacitor in the distributor is bad. If you had power on the minus wire with it disconnected and not with it connected and you have no spark then the module is probably bad. If you have a 24 volt test light or a analog meter put it on the minus side of the coil to ground and crank the engine and see if the light goes dim/bright as it cranks or if the meter needle dips down for every point on the rotor. This will indicate a good module.

[incoming]

Rick, help me out here. There are black, green, and red wires coming from the solid state ignition to the coil. Black and red wire to one post on the coil and a black wire going to the other post of the coil. The only other wire is a short black wire that comes from inside the distributor to the coil, but is attached to one of the coil mounting bracket screws. Which wire should I check for 24 volts? Thank you for your reply!

[incoming]

Thanks for the clarification Rick. It is clearer to me now. I'm not a mechanic but am willing to try anything. Will follow your instructions tomorrow and get back with the site. I do have a meter and know how to test for volts.

[Hambone]

Follow the test procedure Rick spoke of, if you can't get it worked out, I would be willing to drive down next week with extra parts. Hambone

[Fil Bonica]

Hambone the 151s answer to AAA!!!

Fil Bonica