correct stenciling method

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Lindsay36551
1st Lieutenant
1st Lieutenant
Posts: 911
Joined: December 19th, 2011, 12:31 pm
Location: eustis fl

correct stenciling method

Unread post by Lindsay36551 » January 20th, 2017, 8:22 am

Hey all,
I'm trying to find a method that works for stenciling vehicles.
I have yet to find a way that prevents paint bleed thru.
I'm trying to get perfect lines!
I've seen vehicles that have been successfully done using paint , not vinyl graphics
Thanks to all that respond
Best regards
Lindsay
1967 M-35-a2-D SOLD
1973 M151A2
M151 A1-SOLD
196? franken MUTT
M1oo trailer-sold
1963 M151-sold
1968 M416 trailer
1988 998 Humvee-4 man
1994 998 Humvee-up armored

SturmTyger380
Sergeant First Class
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Location: Upstate SC

Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by SturmTyger380 » January 20th, 2017, 9:00 am

Here is what works for me. I go to Wal-mart and buy white vinyl shelf paper. You know the kind where you peel the back off and fit it in the kitchen drawers.

My old method: I use a word processor and choose a font that matches what I need. Print off the numbers and letters, cut them out and trace around them, then use a razor knife to cut out the stencil. This is time consuming and takes a steady hand. (You have to abstain from beer drinking during the evenings you do stencil cutting. :lol: )

New method: I bought a used Silhouette cutting machine. In their software I designed a pattern, (the wife cuts butterflies. :roll: ) Then feed the vinyl shelf paper in the machine and a few minutes later a stencil! (Plus you can have a beer while you watch it! 8) )

At the jeep you clean the surface and peel the backing off the vinyl and carefully lay it down as to not get wrinkles. Use newspaper, blue tape and mask everything for two miles around the stencil. I take high pigment spray paint I buy from Home Depot and spray two light coats on the stencil. If you really hose it down it will bleed through and create a ridge when you remove the vinyl. Plus you have to watch the vinyl as it wants to start lifting after you spray one time. Let it dry 24 hours and carefully peel the vinyl away.
45' MB, ??' MBT, 47' CJ2A, 48' CJ2A,
51' M38 #1, 51' M38 #2, 51' M100,
52' M37, ??' M101A1 (1st Gulf War Vet),
53' M38A1, 53' M211, 65' M151A1, 67' M416,
MVPA #31724

njjeeper
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Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by njjeeper » January 20th, 2017, 9:41 am

I use Rick at this website... https://www.militarystencils.com/

milstencil
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Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by milstencil » January 20th, 2017, 10:04 am

See the how its done videos at http://www.militarystencils.com
Rick

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rickf
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Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by rickf » January 20th, 2017, 10:18 am

One of our members in the past, Mr. Dibbles, Used model paint and several passes and carefully taped stencils and the letters and numbers were so sharp you could cut yourself on them!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

Txjeeper81
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Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Txjeeper81 » January 20th, 2017, 11:06 am

What I do is print out what I need the stencil to say then cut it out with a razor using either a file folder or stencil board. I buy packets of small magnets from the hobby shop and place them all over the stencil on any area where the stencil is not flush with the metal. Then I make several lite coats of paint giving a few minutes for the paint to set up between coats. 90% of the time it comes out perfect but now and then I get a little bleed over specially when I have used the same stencil a few times. I think this gives it more of a realistic look as I have seen us army sgt cut the numbers out of a file folder walk up to a truck eye ball the location and shoot it with a spray can and move on to the next truck.

Here is a M38A1 I stenciled using the sticker stencils that my Brother bought from https://www.militarystencils.com/
Image
Image

This is my 43 Mb I stenciled in the way I described above:
Image
Image
CSM In the Texas State Guard
National United States Armed Forces Museum
1943 MB W/Trailer "Puddle Jumper II"
1968 m274A5 "Little S.N.A.F.U"
1976 M151a2 "Kermit"

Lindsay36551
1st Lieutenant
1st Lieutenant
Posts: 911
Joined: December 19th, 2011, 12:31 pm
Location: eustis fl

Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Lindsay36551 » January 20th, 2017, 5:52 pm

Problem solved!! I am going to buy a vinyl cutting machine!!!
I have about 20 trucks,7 tanks,2 m20's to letter up this quarter!
1967 M-35-a2-D SOLD
1973 M151A2
M151 A1-SOLD
196? franken MUTT
M1oo trailer-sold
1963 M151-sold
1968 M416 trailer
1988 998 Humvee-4 man
1994 998 Humvee-up armored

Francis Marion
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Location: Taylorsville, UT
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Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Francis Marion » January 25th, 2017, 10:39 pm

After you cut the vinyl and remove the unwanted sections, cover the entire area with blue painters tape. It will hold the vinyl in shape when you remove the backing and prevent wrinkles, excessive profanity, and severe bodily harm.
1968 M151A1
1967 M416

Shotgun
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Joined: June 26th, 2016, 2:55 pm
Location: Manassas, VA

Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Shotgun » April 7th, 2017, 8:29 pm

Lindsay - you have quite a motor pool! If I lived closer, I'd volunteer on the paint detail. When I was a PFC in the last century, back in the year of our Lord nineteen hundred and eighty-two we had an IHAWK (ADA) missile loader transporter that was in dire need of a paint job. Since I was assigned to the 11th Improved HAWK Brigade, ceremoniously referred to as the Imperial 11th, I painted it in desert camo since we were in the deserts of Fort Bliss, TX. The section was surprised to find a freshly painted and stenciled loader on Monday morning. I hand painted it because we had no sprayers, but ensured there were no sloppy brush lines. I built models growing up, so putting on paint and making it look good wasn't new. I even feathered the sharp lines and it looked like it was sprayed on. My section chief SFC Cruz asked where I got a paint sprayer, and I told him it was all by hand - admittedly, we had the best looking loader. I used a set of store bought stencils and got some manilla folders and made my own set of unit/data stencils. I traced the stencils on manilla folders, cut them out and taped them in the appropriate places and this was the only time I used a rattle can to paint the info in black paint. Where there was black areas in the stencil areas, I used a lighter contrast color painted over the black. Volunteering for that was better than pulling staff duty or worse guard duty!
Field Artillery 1994-2015 - Retired!
Airborne 1994-1998
Air Defense Artillery (IHAWK) 1981-1993

1968 M151A1 with M416 Trailer
1960 M422A1 (needs restoration) with M416B1 Trailer

Shotgun
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Joined: June 26th, 2016, 2:55 pm
Location: Manassas, VA

Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Shotgun » April 7th, 2017, 8:31 pm

Virtual beers on the house - I got a promotion to Corporal today!
Field Artillery 1994-2015 - Retired!
Airborne 1994-1998
Air Defense Artillery (IHAWK) 1981-1993

1968 M151A1 with M416 Trailer
1960 M422A1 (needs restoration) with M416B1 Trailer

Shotgun
Corporal
Corporal
Posts: 39
Joined: June 26th, 2016, 2:55 pm
Location: Manassas, VA

Re: correct stenciling method

Unread post by Shotgun » April 9th, 2017, 12:40 am

Txjeeper81 I see that you have a IHAWK loader transporter - XM501E3 I had a lot of fun in those in my IHAWK ADA days! I was a 24C IHAWK Firing Section Mechanic and worked on those - I sure hated busting tracks and having to set track tension.
Field Artillery 1994-2015 - Retired!
Airborne 1994-1998
Air Defense Artillery (IHAWK) 1981-1993

1968 M151A1 with M416 Trailer
1960 M422A1 (needs restoration) with M416B1 Trailer

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