Weird project 151

[terratek]

lol I think the former owner's issues stemmed from having too many... projects... *smacks head*

As with the rest of the project, the "head gasket" wasn't so cut and dry. Fel-Pro gasket set, written in sharpie "Head Gasket for Dune Buggie - M1A1 Parts" and box contains 2x VS 13160 R-1 valve cover gaskets.
On the plus side, now I don't need to buy valve cover gaskets when I get to work on the cj-5 dauntless

The oil socks (and I should have a box of the sheets somewhere as well) were auction buys after i picked up the m109 and started work on it. It was either that or buy stock in tidy cat and krud kutter

The reasons I planned on doing the oil change are: No clue how long vehicle has been sitting, oil that came from the pressure gauge line was black as tar, no idea how old the oil filter is or what it's been through. I was going to take a sample of the old oil and send it to blackstone labs for a standard test (if they ever used coolant and it's leaking, the test should show it). I also figured I would borrow or make a pressure tester for the radiator, and do a cylinder leak down test. Other than that, I have always diagnosed a blown head gasket on running engines, not on ones that have been sitting for ages, so am not sure where to go from here.

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

[rickf]

You obviously know your way around engines and carburetors so you do not need to be sending me the carb for a rebuild (unless you want to). They are a very basic carb and simple to work on. The main thing is t be SURE all the passages are clean, especially the idle passages. The accelerator pump is shot I am sure, they always are after sitting but if as you said it was 100LL fuel it may not be. Change the oil, run a gas line from a can to the fuel pump and crank it to see if the pump works. If it does then hook the line to the carb and fire it up. You know you have oil pressure. If no fuel pump just put the can up on top of the cage, it will gravity feed well enough to get it running. Fill the radiator right to the top and watch for a steady stream of bubbles. No steady stream then no blown head gasket. I would get the top off of the trans and make sure it is in neutral before starting it up though. With the drive shaft out the transmission will heat up and push the yoke out and you will need more oil pigs!

[terratek]

Today I am taking a "me" day, ie: kicking back online, no working on anything except some electronics projects I put off for dead days, and taking over care of dad when needed... Today's project is building rear fog lights for the goldwing and beemer bikes out of luminus pt-54 red led modules.

The fuel pump works great, that pic of the hose in the bucket is all old fuel that was pumped out while messing with it, and as I said before, it was just pouring out of the carb before I rerouted it.
I'll get the carb off sometime tomorrow and cover up the intake (dogs, cats, rats, opossums, squirrels, skunks, raccoons.. my back yard doesn't discriminate)
Oil change will probably be done this week, will have to remember to grab a few ounces to send in for testing.

Drive shaft isn't out yet actually, all I did was disconnect at the rear diff and hang it from a strap so i could move the vehicle. Watched it when i first cranked it to check if engine was seized, and it didn't move. Didn't move when I started it up on starting fluid either. So no idea what's going on there.

Now looking at the side of the engine the carb is on, are there two freeze plugs? Just asking because I have two holes, one is plugged, the other looks like it has a plug that was engineered to fit. I'll try to get a pic when I feed the dogs.

[terratek]

http://s253.photobucket.com/user/g0th/l ... ze%20plugs

[Surveyor]

Yep. Freeze plugs. Although if you use the term "freeze plug" around here you may get a lecture on why they are not. Anyway, you also have two on the backside of the engine that are covered up by the bell housing. First leak I found when I bought mine - lucky me. The ones on the backend are usually the first to rust out from what I have been told. Looks like you have a standard plug and one of the rubber type. The rubber ones are usually there for a temporary fix. They expand as you tighten it up.

[terratek]

ok ok ok... So my "definitely not freeze plugs" are in place, but one has been replaced with some engineered one size fits most bit
I guess seeing if it or any of the others are leaking will wait until after the oil change and such. Concerning the ones behind the bell housing, if they are leaking, I should notice it once I fill the radiator and have it more or less running?

On to another topic, just noticed that the front headlight mount is (I think) the pioneer rack from some other vehicle... Doesn't look exactly like my m109a3 one, but straps, loops, etc... Anyone know what this is off of?

[rickf]

Not a clue on the owner of the pioneer rack but on the subject of rear steering you probably do not want to go with a linear actuator. They are slow and also do not have much torque. Two things against rear steering right there. And on top of that they do not self center. Hydraulic is the only way to go but you will have to figure a power source, electric pump maybe. ou don't want to tax that massive 72 horsepower engine with a power steering pump if you don't have to.

[terratek]

True. The only reason I say linear actuator is... I have some 1400lb ones that are 24 volt that I originally picked up to do a fold down porch/deck for the rear of the m109. Considering I won't even consider 4-wheel steering over 10mph with ifs/irs, I figured it might be a useable alternative to all the linkage involved with mechanical, or the 24vdc compressor, fluid reservoir, and controls for hydraulic.

[Surveyor]

Concerning the ones behind the bell housing, if they are leaking, I should notice it once I fill the radiator and have it more or less running?

Nailed it. Could be a pin hole to just pouring out like mine did. Check out Mr. Recovery's Rebuild thread for some good pictures. One in center blocks coolant. One to the starter side is oil.

http://www.g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t ... t=oil+pump

[rickf]

True. The only reason I say linear actuator is... I have some 1400lb ones that are 24 volt that I originally picked up to do a fold down porch/deck for the rear of the m109. Considering I won't even consider 4-wheel steering over 10mph with ifs/irs, I figured it might be a useable alternative to all the linkage involved with mechanical, or the 24vdc compressor, fluid reservoir, and controls for hydraulic.

Don't have to get too exotic, just a snow plow pump and use the right/left angle cylinder lines. You could even use the rams from the same plow for the steering. You could either source a 24 volt one or drop the voltage with a ballast resistor.

[terratek]

yknow rick, i would like to get the thing driveable before i play with the 4-wheel steering part.. but you keep giving me ideas and i may just run with em....

[rickf]

Just be damn glad I don't live near you!!!

[terratek]

oh sure, i am so glad someone else isn't over here speeding the project along woe is me!

hell man, if you lived closer, i'd probably know what's leaking on the m109 I'd just be like "hey rick... m109 has a leak, you always wanted one right? so... erm... good practice! take a look at this and find the leak that i obviously have already found! yes this is a test..."

[m3a1]

Actually, using that pioneer rack for that purpose makes a lot of sense, just as long as nothing falls off of it and goes under the vehicle, which would be awkward.

That's really a very interesting truck ya got there. When you have the time, I know everyone would like to see more detailed photos of it.

[terratek]

My severe lack of sleep caught up with me, ended up sleeping for 12+ hours straight and still feel like I could use another 12... Put off working on stuff today, will get back to it tomorrow.