CMD Body Panels

[Eddie Holland]

I dont know if the rear member is the same or not. This picture was listed as for a M151A1 on a Danish website.

It looks the same as the one on my early M151. On the side angle pieces I was hoping to but weld it, but Im not an experienced welder, it may need to be lapped.


other part i need




Eddie

[RCA827]

Guy the parts are for both the A1 and A 2, I remember him emailing me a year or so back telling me that all his parts are universal for both models unless specified to a particular model,If I remember correctly he has two models for the rear panels one for A1 and one for the A2. I hope that helps out.

[Eddie Holland]

i think that rear cross member is probably the same but if you are talking about the rear body panel the M151 is different than the A1 . I have M151 M151A1 and M151A2

[RCA827]

i think that rear cross member is probably the same but if you are talking about the rear body panel the M151 is different than the A1 . I have M151 M151A1 and M151A2

Yes you are right the rear panels are different and Kurt Wehlast offers the A1 and A2 full rear panels you can check out his parts on his site .$$$$$

[RCA827]

Guy do you plan to make up any of the supports that go under the rear fender to rear panel in the future ?

[Francis Marion]

At this time I have 8 tool box lids...

Guy

Make that 7.

[RCA827]

That s great Francis I took a set of rear fender tops with more parts to order, so good to finally have a source for well made and accurate body panels.thanks Guy and CDM.

[lpcoating]

hi,
Are you familar familar with the rear crossmember behind the rear panel of an early M151. I am in need of one. If you are not making them I could come up with a cad drawing. I have done 3d cad and animation in Engineering and architecture the last 20 years. I have Autocad 2013. I also could you some pieces of the angled metal arounf the bottom of the body and the whell wells. also the fender tops.
Thanks Eddie
eddie_holland@bellsouth.net

If you can draw the parts that will help me out as I do not have a good part to work from. AutoCAD or a 3D model file - what ever is easier for you. Where are you located?

[lpcoating]

The first batch of parts were primed with an Imron epoxy primer. As you all know, paint is not cheap. In order to keep cost down I would rather spray the finished parts with an anti-rust product. This would also be better when it comes time to weld parts on - you would not have to remove primer and you would not have to worry about paint adhesion between the primer coat and whatever paint top coat that you use. I'm looking for input. What say you??

[lpcoating]

Guy do you plan to make up any of the supports that go under the rear fender to rear panel in the future ?

I will take a look at them. I'm going to work on the rear floor and front floor panels. One of the advantages of modern equipment is that we do not have a make a special punch and die for every new part. The progressive rib tool will run right off the sheet if you let it! This is for everyone: Please keep in mind that I'm doing the design on my time and I will not be able to turn out a new part every week. Once parts are made and proven out re-making them is not an issue. We plan to run parts with a set lot size and will re-run as part inventory is sold. I look forward to getting more parts on the market for people but want to make sure that everyone has realistic expectations of progress.

Guy

[Eddie Holland]

The first batch of parts were primed with an Imron epoxy primer. As you all know, paint is not cheap. In order to keep cost down I would rather spray the finished parts with an anti-rust product. This would also be better when it comes time to weld parts on - you would not have to remove primer and you would not have to worry about paint adhesion between the primer coat and whatever paint top coat that you use. I'm looking for input. What say you??

I started a drawing of the rear crossmember a few weeks ago. I will check it again tomorrow. I have the rear panel off of my M151 and can get to the ate up from rust member easily. I live in Western Kentucky. One thing I dont understand in this type drawing is how to measure a radius of a 90 degree bend in the metal? do you just fake a radius size and let the machine just bend it to the angle you need? does that make sense?

[lpcoating]

When I make a part drawing I use the over-all dimensions. I do not worry about the bend radius at this point. For example: When I made my dash I drew up each surface as it's own part. I have a program that once you input the bend lengths, bend radius and material thickness it figures the overall length and where the bend lines are. After I have that information I merge the individual surfaces into one part. I think this is what you are asking me. While someone with better training (or an engineer) might not do it this way, it works for me!

[Eddie Holland]

Ok . I am going to double check the dimensions and get you a 3d model along with 2d drawings of each side with dimensions. Send me an email address to send the files to. I have Autocad 2013. Do you need it saved as a different version? I did a search on how to measure small radius. There are tools for this called radius gauge but they are very expensive.

[RCA827]

Guy as far as a primed panel is concerned I for one would not care if it was primed or not just the bare metal panel would suit me.

[lpcoating]

When I was at the Gilbert show someone made the comment that the A2 tool box lid does not have the 4 stiffeners on the bottom side. Can someone with an A2 check your lid and let me know. Thank you...