M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby fergrn37 » October 3rd, 2017, 9:42 am

First world problems.....
Some people are too busy knowing it all to ever learn anything
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby m3a1 » October 3rd, 2017, 3:27 pm

Yeah, I suppose. Aside from a car battery taking a dump in my M151, I got it made in the shade. 8)
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby rickf » October 3rd, 2017, 5:24 pm

If you send a PM to Raymond on here he may be able to give you some insight and or pictures on those things, His family has been in the gas and oil business for many years/generations.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby rickf » October 3rd, 2017, 5:25 pm

What, no massive Halloween undertaking this year?
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby m3a1 » October 23rd, 2017, 6:22 pm

Well, as you can see....this Halloween is getting out of control. It's kinda weird coming around to the front of the house and finding strangers in my yard snapping pictures. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby rickf » October 23rd, 2017, 6:53 pm

I had faith in you. :twisted: :twisted: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby m3a1 » October 29th, 2017, 10:23 am

So, with Halloween and other end-of-year distractions winding down I'm finally getting back to the Jeep and other things. Even the MUTT has had to wait. We have the many miscellaneous parts for the steering knuckles cleaned, inspected, de-burred, blasted, primed and painted and many more new parts on the way from what is hopefully my final order for a while.

I elected to replace the right steering knuckle housing altogether, rather than helicoil the lone wallowed out bolt-hole because the helicoil kit was about $30 and the new casting was only $59. Remember, I always think about the survivability of my work in the long run...like, how will the work I've done be viewed another 60 years down the road. If I've done the job right, they may not even realize I've been involved. Anyway, the old steering knuckle casting may end up on eBay (vastly discounted and with full disclosure, of course) or it may simply end up hanging here around as a trophy.

As a salutary comment to bringing the front/rear axle and brakes back up to spec, all tallied it has been VERY expensive primarily because these Jeeps can be kept going for a very long time, despite lots of abuse and neglect, before they just won't go anymore, which leaves the guy who picks it up from there left holding the bag, so to speak......and that is something anyone should consider when attempting to resurrect any tired and worn out truck. These parts aren't necessarily all that expensive in dribs and drabs but when you have a truck that needs one (or four) of everything, the numbers and and do add up very quickly.

I think I have most of the bases covered, so soon we will do our parts layout and see what's missing before diving back in.

Cheers,
TJ
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby rickf » October 29th, 2017, 10:55 am

So how much does the boy owe you so far? Reality check!!!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: M38 - Nothing at all to do with M151s

Postby m3a1 » November 11th, 2017, 7:25 pm

Well, at long last I've managed to get back to this project. I did get quite a few things sand blasted and and painted. I ended up ordering a completely new hub for the left side as one of the drive flange bolts had broken off and the bolt hole was also wallowed out. Because of this I found I had only half of the bearings and races I needed today, so I got over to O-Reilly's Auto Parts just in time to get another couple of sets added to their afternoon parts run and had them in my hands in a hour. Having to step away from these jobs for a time really throws me off my game!

What you see here is my solution to getting the races pressed down deep into these hubs. I lubed the throat of the hub and stacked the old races (which is why I don't throw anything away until the job is done) and I used them as spacers to press the new race down until it was seated. Afterwards, I simply tapped the old bearing race out with a brass punch. If you do this, make sure the bearing races are stacked back to front so that there is a surface to strike against when it's time to tap them out. Granted, it's a little awkward-looking but I didn't have the proper tool for seating the new races and elected to use what I had on hand which is perfectly acceptable.

This is a also a good side-by-side photo of how bad the old races were, as compared to the new ones.

The front side of the hub has a relieved area all the way down to the edge of the seat for the bearing race so those old bearing races simply come right out without any effort. However, the back side is an interference fit all the way down.

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