1978 M151A2 From the Royal Saudi Army (KSA)

[Fil Bonica]

How about a Rivnut?
Closest thing to a weldnut.
Just need the tool.

Fil Bonica

[lpcoating]

Could also tack weld nuts on.

[rickf]

How about a Rivnut?
Closest thing to a weldnut.
Just need the tool.

Fil Bonica

Don't even need the tool. Bolt,washer and nut works just as well and better on the bigger stuff. I used them all the time on door hardware and for the 3/8" and up it was easier to just use a bolt and nut to draw them up.

[Vzike]

I like the rivet nut idea. It's a little hard to tack weld a nut on the inside of that location due to the location of the rear fender support. I'll have to look for the rivet nuts.

Before my next task, I took some time to read over Guys Resto thread. I opted to use his method for installing the back floor panel.

By the way, I ordered the panel on Weds, and it got here Friday. Upstate NY to Florida in 2 days.

I spent several hours installing the new back floor panel from CMD. I drilled the frame and welded from the bottom. I painted all surfaces with POR15 (which should be renamed POR $150). I also marked the locations of the welds, and sanded off the coating. I positioned the panel, and fixed the location with two self taping screws. Then flipped it on the rotisserie and positioned the lift under the upside down body. I used the back two lift arms to locate 4X4s strategically to press upwards on the panel when the lift is activated. I had to keep moving it to get pressure at the locations for the welds, but this technique worked really well to press the panel tightly to the frame as I welded it in location. The floor is very flat and tightly in position. It came out a lot better than my previous attempt on the 64 M151.





Sorry, forgot to take finished pics before I left the garage.....

[Vzike]

And here is more on the back floor installation:

[rickf]

Looks like you are spotting them too hot and too long, it is just about blowing through. How big of a hole did you use in the frame? 3/8" should be max. I would probably use 1/4".

[Vzike]

I used a 3/8" center drill. I'd get the puddle to form inside the hole, then guide it around to the frame. When I tried 1/4", I would have trouble getting the puddle to form at the bottom (against the floor panel). If would arc over to the hole edge and not form to the bottom.

[rickf]

Start close to the edge of the hole and make a circle and it should fill in and blend the edge if done right.. You have to work pretty quick since you are heating up the small area in a circle. If the arc is jumping then you are too far away from the work or wrong angle, I know, angles are impossible to control sometimes on these deals. It is all part of the welding learning curve. With MIG welding you want 0 angle preferably, that is not always practical and sometimes not wanted if you have a hot weld and need shielding gas for an extended period after the weld. That is not am issue with sheet metal so just figure that no more than a 15 degree angle is best and you will prevent flash as long as the fit up is good. Another thing to avoid is magnets and welding too close to the ground clamp, both of which will give very strange effects to the arc.

[Vzike]

Yesterday we finished the body work and primed it.

Last night we put two coats of paint on it.... yep.... desert sand!

[Fil Bonica]

Cant wait to inspect things soldier!!!
Date is tge 6th .
Be ready!

Fil Bonica

[Vzike]

It will be ready for you, Fil. We're looking forward to seeing you.

Today was a pretty slow day. I rolled the rotisserie outside to let the dry air do it's work on the fresh paint. Started digging out the suspension parts that have been painted, and put in the rear wiring harness. All those wire clips are a royal pain in the butt. Most are rusted away or broken. I've found a custom parts site online, and have been able to purchase very similar replacements.

My gut tells me to undercoat this one. I sprayed some of the inside areas of the frame with POR15 prior to installing the floors. For the exposed area, I have a good undercoat gun, and have an undercoat product I've bought from Eastwood. For the inside areas, I have that toilet bowl wax, WD40, chain bar oil mix, with a flexible spray head. How about sharing some thoughts on this?

The whole tub is desert tan. The suspension parts are black.... If I undercoat, the whole bottom will be black.

[Fil Bonica]

Coat the inner parts of the frame but leave the underside painted.
It's easier to inspect and keep clean.
Just some thoughts from the old man.

Fil Bonica

[Vzike]

Crazy....... The guy that wants this one came by last week..... He loved it! That was the good news..... The bad news was he wants a heater in it, which will take my only NOS heater kit, and he wants it green.

Thursday after noon, we started.... It is now 383 green! I think we are going to put the camo pattern on it.
First tan.....



Then Green.....

[rickf]

I sure hope he is paying the extra (substantial) for having to go back in and do the heater AFTER all of the body work is done and also for a new coat of paint which requires sanding of the entire body before repainting. It does look much better like it sets, minus the camo.

[Vzike]

He is paying extra for the heater (NOS kit) and paint. As bad as this one was, it really is a nice straight mutt now. Just trying to get all the skins to match.

Firestone NDCC will be in from Coker tomorrow. Nice working through a garage that is a tire dealer! We get tires from Coker for other collectors cars here.

I got the front wire harness in place. Putting in the positive cable and the slave next.

I'll finish the heater and get started on the brake and pedal assembly tomorrow. It should be off the rotisserie by the end of the week, then I can get my next tub on it and over to the sand blaster. By the time this one is ready, I'll be ready to start the body work on the 70 Ford A2.