Here is the reinforcing plate 12Bravo is describing, along with the rest of the kit, (Photo credit to TJN Murray) and I had already seen this photo before I started down this path. As oriented in this photo, the lower edge of the reinforcing plate goes toward the outer edge of the fender and the top edge bolts in at the side of the body tub/fender joint. Right edge of the reinforcing plate in this photo is 'forward'.
M60 mount kit.jpg
And, yes, closer examination does reveal that my Goat had that reinforcing plate. I missed that. In my defense, I'm moving pretty fast on this project (because I'm dodging periods of rain) so, I may be missing a few pieces of evidence but, my conclusions remain the same. Reinforcing plate = Bad Idea.
Here's how I'm weighing the benefit of having the large plate on the top of the fender, rather than on the bottom.
Original design - pros (
+) and cons (
-)
+ Tying into the sidewall prevents the piece from rolling forward and back.
+ Reinforcing panel extending out toward the edge of the fender prevents the piece from rocking from side to side.
- Reinforcing panel fails to tie into the outboard beam of the fender; the strongest, most unyielding structure available.
- Having the piece constructed of dissimilar metal and
below the fender will create problems related to corrosion.
- Coupled with the the Base, the original, reinforced assembly is heavier than my current design.
My design - pros and cons
+ Resting upon the beam that forms the edge of the fender prevents the piece from rolling forward and back.
+ Extending across the full width of the fender prevents the piece from rocking from side to side.
+ Having the piece on top of the fender and in full view promotes occasional PMs to ensure corrosion doesn't begin.
+ New design no longer requires the additional metal that forms the Base
plate and is lighter than the original. My pipe will attach directly to the plate itself. In short, the Base IS ALSO the reinforcing panel.
We know the issue of weight and weight distribution (affecting center of buoyancy) was very much on the minds of Ling-Temco-Vought and the manufacturer, Consolidated Diesel Electric, and I'm trying to remain true to that as a guiding concept.
We also know what having two kits installed (i.e. both a winch and a gun mounted) was the point at which the manufacturer and the the military said - This Vehicle Is No Longer Swimmable. You could have one and swim, or the other and swim, it but not both. The really big issue is that the weapon system is not centered, like the winch is. So that weight IS really very important because of it's location.
Having a non swimming Gama Goat was actually just fine with the Marine Corps.
The USMC began their Gama Goat saga by pronouncing that they would rather have had a truck that didn't swim. In fact, they said they preferred a flatbed Gama Goat which never actually came to fruition.
Since my Goat will never, ever be asked to swim, the issue of weight savings (as small as it is in my design) is really just an exercise in staying true to the original thought processes of the designers and manufacturers. Nothing more.
That brings us to the matter of preventing corrosion. I will say that fighting corrosion is a very real and very important part of maintaining our former military vehicles, especially a vehicle such as the Goat. So, my departure from what is "original" is also motivated by the need for continual conservation. In my world the old saying "Out of sight, out of mind" is a very real thing and I would feel horrible if I committed some neglect or oversight that fouled up my Goat.
Cheers,
TJ
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