Chronic Acceleration Problem

[Venito]

Mine has non-vented cap, fuel return and that inspection plate. But it is still pre-emission type? I 've been thinking it is newer, emission type.

What do you think about this guy's illustrated tank restoration:

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwood-c ... -syndrome/

it is sure cheaper but maybe not as good. What do y'all think about the product used in this tutorial?
I want to do it myself for the fun of it and the saving in my pocket.

Thanks Ken, for the ebay sale, I now know the strain will come off. I will try to unhook it and buy another one and just slap it on.

What Rick describe is just cleaning and servicing the carb right? Rebuild is like gutting it our and put lots of new parts in like ones in this kit right? It may be now the exact model but you know what i meant that should be replace in the rebuilt process.

and the float


I will read some more on cleaning and follow your instructions, but I will have a professional rebuild it , if needed.
when take off for cleaning, can I reuse the gasket? I kinda like gasket maker: no shipping wait, nor search for fitting. jUST squeeze and voila!

But i show y'all teh closeup, hi res. image of the seat of the needle see if it is punctured.

Hear from you soon. It is more exciting to check g838 than facebook for me. hehehe

sincerely,

[Venito]

I just got a constructive message from Rick on how to follow y'all instruction and steps of a proper process.

Let me pause for now until all those info given is followed and done.

Then I will update with you all of the results.

By hearing Rick's 45 yrs in the business, that's longer than I've been on earth. If I appeared to be not listening. I apologize. you all will always have my respect. What else can I give when I pay nothing for these info.

Now is the time for me to get all needed works done instead of asking for more info.

Until then, thank you. I'll be back.

Gratefully yours,

venito

[raymond]

Good Luck

Post some pictures of your M151

[Venito]

you will be a bit disappointed

it's not a full breed m151 jeep, it's a mongrel--a mutt down to its very semantics

[muttguru]

it's not a full breed m151 jeep, it's a mongrel--a mutt down its very semantics

Venito, it's an Encore or a Titan body, not an M151 body. It still looks good. Have you decided to get the fuel tank fixed yet?
By the way, if that tank is a pre-emissions tank (which you said it is) then you should be using a VENTED fuel cap.
Ken

[Mr. Recovery]

Most "all" of us would like to have one of the after market ones to use as a Driver and keep the 151's in top shape so, no disappointment here, that one looks very nice.

[Venito]

Yes I did clean if spanking clean with chemical and clear the fuel line with compressed air. The difference is the filter at carb is filled with gas, nice!
Hi Ken, it is an encore M151


Idle great, revving engine to max no more misfiring.

But according Rick, I must also do all brake, and all other safety check before taking it on the road.

All four wheels are off, all brakes checked,bled and refilled with DOT 5 silicon fluid. At the end of today it will be ready to be test driven.

I will update tonight of its driving

thank you all.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

[rickf]

I hope it had DOT 5 in it before, they are not compatible and they do not mix. Did you check to see which was in there before?

[Venito]

HI Rick it was certainly not silicon fluid, I took it out, mix it with water, in blend perfectly into water. It was not silicon obviously.

So I bled 2 bottles of Dot 5, the purple color ones, thru the system. Got all the air out.

The brakes grabs and locked up before. Now it stops locking up now.

I did what you told me in private message. All wheels off and inspected. Tires, seat belts, lights, axel and diff oil flushed and refilled. I will buy a grease gun to inject grease into places tomorrow.

I did take the carb off, give it some good cleaning and inspect the needle seat, no visible damage.

Sitting still, I can rev engine from idle to max, no problem--unlike in the past it would backfire and sputter.

Skipping one Thanks Giving dinner, I finally get it ready for a test drive.

After warming up real good, I could get it out of the driving just fine going down hill from my home no problem. On the way back up hill, it chugged and misfired then stalled. I restarted it but could not get it up the hill.

Left it there by neighbor's home. Almost an hour later, I came back, start it up drive home right away, it make home OK.

I did one more time. It still stall when it is under load. I only misfires when under load, sitting still it has no problem revving.

I've read this it could be ignition coil on car advise web site, but I am not sure what it is with mine.

[Venito]

basically, what I was trying to say was: it no longer misfires, only misfires and stalls when under load like going up hill.

It starts up and runs very smoothly until it needs to pull hard...

[raymond]

The axle u joints, especially the ones by the wheels are hard to grease. Get yourself a miniature grease gun and put a grease needle on the end.

Here is the one that I use.

[muttguru]

basically, what I was trying to say was: it no longer misfires, only misfires and stalls when under load like going up hill. It starts up and runs very smoothly until it needs to pull hard...

Venito..... look back a couple of posts. You will see this:-

if that tank is a pre-emissions tank (which you said it is) then you should be using a VENTED fuel cap.

If you do not understand, it means this.
If the tank is a vented tank, it must be fitted with a VENTED cap. If you are using a NON-vented cap, a vacuum will develop in the tank & fuel lines as the fuel is used. The tank needs air to replace the used fuel.
When you are driving up a hill, you use more fuel so the tank will develop a vacuum very quickly. Because of the vacuum, the fuel starts to run out, the engine will splutter and die. If you leave the vehicle for a while, the tank will gradually lose the vacuum.
So, before you buy a replacement coil, carb etc, try this. Unfasten the fuel cap. Leave it loose, don't tighten it. Then drive the vehicle. If it runs good, up and down hill.....then you need to buy a new cap...make sure it says "VENTED".
If it still runs badly, try a different coil.
Ken

[Mr. Recovery]

You may also want to check the centrifugal advance weights under the point/electronic ignition plate, they could be rusted/frozen and not moving freely.

[Venito]

Mr. Recovery,

under 500 rpm I am dead on 6 degrees btdc. When I get near 1000 rmp or more, the it moves away from 6 degree. I presume the centrifugal weight still works, don't you think?

i don't want to mess with something I ve never worked on before.

thank you sir,

vinny

[Mr. Recovery]

Yep, sounds like the weights are working so, we can check that off the list!