Engine test on stand

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Re: Engine test on stand

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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » October 7th, 2017, 8:11 pm

I'll check out autozme to see if they have anything to that will fit as a mechanical gauge thanks rick
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » October 8th, 2017, 8:35 am

Just get an oil pressure test gauge. It should come with the gauge, hose and maybe a couple adapters. The hose should fit right into the pipe thread hole where the oil pressure sender is or if you have an A2 engine there will be a plug in front of the oil filter where the oil pressure safety switch would have gone on an A1. Take the plug out and test it there.
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1984 M1008
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » October 8th, 2017, 8:45 am

Cool sounds like a plan
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby 64 M151 » November 7th, 2017, 10:35 pm

Are you kidding me. If she bust off, she will jump around like a Mexican Jumping Bean and end up laying on its side with busted parts.

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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » November 8th, 2017, 8:50 am

A couple of blocks of wood under the motor mounts and sitting on the radiator supports it will not go anywhere. I have run quite a few of them this way. In one of his pictures he even has a hoist holding it from the top for extra insurance.
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby acudanut » November 11th, 2017, 10:20 am

I'd like to see it running. Cheers
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » November 12th, 2017, 11:07 pm

She runs but is now going in a box sadly
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » November 13th, 2017, 9:00 am

A couple (well more than a couple) suggestions before boxing the engine. You are going to want to pickle the engine. Drain the oil and put in fresh oil unless all you have on it is the 10-15 minutes of test time. If so leave that oil in. Pull the spark plugs out and bring the piston on number one up to the top, timing mark lined up on the pulley. This will have number one and three pistons ate the top of the stroke. Spray a fair amount of the fluid film in numbers 2 and 4. Now rotate the engine a couple turns and bring up number 2 cylinder to the top, Timing mark opposite the pointer. This will have numbers two and four at the top so you can spray one and three and then rotate the engine a few more turns and then put the plugs back in. Put some steel wool in the exhaust manifold outlet and tape over it with duct tape. Do the same with the intake manifold after removing the carburetor. This will prevent mice from making nests inside of the engine. The carburetor you want to remove the bowl and make sure all of the gas is out and dry and then put the bowl back on. The spray a little fluid film in the both ends of the carb and on the linkages to prevent them from rusting. Wrap up the carb in a rag and pack it in next to the generator on the engine.tape over the coolant openings for good measure. Spray the belt grooves with fluid film or paint them to prevent rust. And you are ready for the box.

They may require that you drain the oil from the engine, if they do don't worry about it, the internals will be just fine with the coating of oil that is already in there.
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby acudanut » November 13th, 2017, 1:54 pm

Why are you putting the engine, back in a Box ?
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » November 14th, 2017, 9:45 am

Thank you rick I was wondering about those things

What should be done about the radiator it is currently connected and filled I was going to drain it and maybe try to spray the passages or at a minimum let them dry and then leave the rad attached in the box is that a bad idea



It’s being stored because I have no jeep to put it in and I’m heading out of the country
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » November 14th, 2017, 10:21 am

Well, I would drain it for the main reason that if it springs a leak while you are gone then it will be gone when you get back. As far as leaving it on there, it is probably about as safe there as anywhere, just put a couple layers of cardboard on it to protect it from impacts and be sure to build the crate solid enough that it will not collapse in in the radiator. I piece of plywood on that end may be in order. If you had antifreeze in it then storing it with whatever residue is left after draining should protect it as well as anything you could put in there. Again, I am pretty sure they are going to require that you drain all of the fluids.
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1984 M1008
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12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » November 14th, 2017, 11:46 am

They said oil was fine I’m my dirt bike so I’m assume oil will be ok in the engine
Coolest I’ll be drained I will try to slide some cardboard between the fan and radiator to protect it as well the box was going to b made of plywood and corners of 2x2 little posts or just 2x4s
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Fil Bonica » November 14th, 2017, 2:19 pm

In 2005 i rebilt an engine.
As it turned out really didnt need it for a poject.
There it sat on a stand for years.
Only fogged the cylinders and taped the exhaust manifold draned the radiator.
There sat n a cold damp garage till 2013 when. I installed it my current jeep.
No need to do to much to store them.

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