Yoke Wear Sleeves

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Horst
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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Horst » March 8th, 2017, 1:38 pm

Speaking about the worn syncros, changing the upper gears while leaving the lower cluster gear in place can be done very quickly. After removing the top lid, removing the transfer and the input drive shaft it comes out without trouble. Of course, if the cluster gear is worn, you need to go thru the hassle of replacing it.
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Fil Bonica » March 8th, 2017, 4:54 pm

You mentioned possibly swapping out transfer cases.
If I am not mistaken the transmission and tansfer case are a lmatched pair and as such not necessarily transferrable.
Also it was interesting to note the Zerk fitting on the grease cap of the driveshaft on page 1.
An adder by the owner ?


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Gettysburg63
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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Gettysburg63 » March 12th, 2017, 3:41 pm

If you would give me the serial number off your data plate I would like to see how early your MUTT is and let you know also. Thanks, Kevin.
Kevin B. Emdee
368 Big oak Trail
Radcliff, KY 40160
1-270-877-0813
kevin.emdee@comcast.net
MVPA #530

1968 M-35A2
1968 M-543A2
1944 WC-56
1970 M-274A2
1961 M-151

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rickf
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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by rickf » March 12th, 2017, 7:04 pm

Gettysburg63 wrote:If you would give me the serial number off your data plate I would like to see how early your MUTT is and let you know also. Thanks, Kevin.
That would only work if the powerpak was never changed and I think we know the odds of that. Half the time the military changed the powerpak just to do an oil change. :roll: :lol:
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Grasshopper » March 14th, 2017, 6:44 am

Having had a quick check of the old transmission, the wear on the yokes on that unit seems to be between the transfer box output shaft and yoke splines, and not the shaft bearings. The shaft itself has next to no play in it. If this proves to be the case with the one in the vehicle, I will try fitting the yokes from the spare transmission to see which one achieves the least amount of play. I still have to change the oil seal first though! Worst case I could swap the front drive output shaft from the old transfer box to the newer one if it seems less worn.

Out of interest, given the usual standardisation of US manufactured items how come that the transfer case and gear box on MUTTs are matched?


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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by ErEyal » March 14th, 2017, 10:40 am

Hi guys,
Great post,
i tried to look for pics from about six months ado when i did the exact same thing on my Mutt , but unfortunately in currently in NYC and all my pics are back home .

anyhow of curse i think that the best and only option is take the whole power pack out and jest on the same breath replace all the transmission gaskets,
i pressed the sleeves on my vice and for the final millimeter i used the old sleeves.

BUT what i didnt do is replace the small oil seal that surrounds the all-wheel drive output rod (small one) and it is leaking :x , any chance that any of you guys have a pare one just laying around? and do you think i car replace it without taking the PP out the 4th time on this 6 moths period ? :roll:

Eyal
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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Grasshopper » May 3rd, 2017, 7:46 am

Having just changed my yoke seals and sleeves, i would hazard a guess that you can probably renew your seal in situe by carefully destructing it. As to what will be in the way with the transmission installed in the vehicle, that will be the difficult part. Nothing to lose by trying though and if you can't get it out, remove the pack again...

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Grasshopper » May 11th, 2017, 5:53 am

Eyal,

Having just re-installed my power pack yesterday the yokes now no longer appear to leak, but annoyingly I seem to have a weep from the selector fork seal! I don't think it will be difficult to change this with the pack in situ as the seal should come out easily with a seal removal pick, and installing the new one should be straight forward as it "only" goes over the shaft so you should be able to make a simple installation tube/tool. Removing the selector lever to gain access is simple enough.

On my truck having switched the yokes for better ones, the front one now has no play, but the rear one (which seemed fine on the bench) has play in it with it in its "extended" position when the rear prop shaft fitted. Winter maintenance will likely be a seal change for the selector shaft and a NOS rear yoke.

Vince

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by rickf » May 12th, 2017, 6:49 pm

If you are talking about the seal on the transfer case rod it is a very thick seal and you are NOT going to get it out with a pick! I have been putting up with that leak in mine for several years, when the power pak comes out then I will take the side cover off the trans and take the rod out and get the seal out that way.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Grasshopper » May 15th, 2017, 6:00 am

I bow to your experience, I'll stick a drip tray on the garage floor. At least (hopefully) the main, worse, leak from the yoke is now cured so I can live with a small drip from that seal.

The truck had her first run out to a show this weekend with the original restorer at the wheel, and I think he regrets selling her! We have confirmed that she's not charging, which I will look into this week now I have the correct manual, and also that there is an exhaust leak from the manifold. I've been advised that this will typically involve broken studs, so I'll live with it until winter maintenance period.

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by rickf » May 15th, 2017, 7:57 am

Yes, You can pretty much guarantee that a bolt or two are going to break when removing the exhaust/intake. They are stainless steel bolts that were used to prevent just that from happening but the problem is that stainless steel bolts are soft. When they are turned in the metal galls, or "peels" back from the threads. Picture the barb on fish hooks. This is what you get on the threads of the bolt facing back towards the direction you need to turn it to loosen the bolt. As soon as you start to loosen the bolt those barbs dig in and expand jamming the bolt. At that point it will not want to go either way because the steel is soft and is now mangled in the threads. It was always thought that rust from the cast iron head was the jamming factor and a lot of penetrant would solve the problem, I believe it actually makes it worse since the penetrants are solvents and do not do much for lubrication. What is needed is extreme lubrication, and even this is a crapshoot. My recommendation is to keep brand new high quality drill bits at hand and be prepared to drill out the bolt from top to bottom. absolutely do NOT try to use those wedge type bolt removers!!! They will tighten the bolt against the head and make it worse and you will end up breaking off a hardened remover in the hole. Then you have a real problem. Drill all the way trough using small to larger drills trying to stay in the center of the bolt. Once you get to the point where you can see the edges of the threads you can try carefully running a 3/8-16 tap in and out which should clean out the threads. If all else fails get a Heli-coil kit and follow the directions for the kit. Be sure you do not drill out the hole too far to use the kit.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by raymond » May 15th, 2017, 8:10 pm

Rick had a useful post on getting the exhaust bolts out several years ago and it worked for me on replacing the exhaust manifold.

Essentially it said to spray the bolts with Kroil or similar and let set. Then back the bolt out, but stop it it starts to get too tight. Then spray again, turn all the way in, and let it rest. Have a beer while waiting. Then start to back off the bolts again. Repeat as necessary while noting that each time, the bolts will back out a little further. Eventually you will get them all the way out. I had one I had to follow this procedure, and had he not posted about it, I would have broken off the bolt.
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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by rickf » May 15th, 2017, 8:49 pm

Raymond, Since I posted that I had come to find out about the stainless bolts. That is why I sort of strayed from that advice but it does still hold water. If the bolt wants to move a little it will certainly do not harm to keep trying back and forth and try to come back out little further each time while adding Kroil or maybe Deep Creep. That has more in the way of lubricant in it where the Kroil is absolutely the best for rusty bolts. It may still break but you gave it a good try. Like I said, NEW drill bits because even though stainless steel is softer than regular steel it IS harder to cut so new bits are essential.

By the way, I do NOT put the Stainless bolts back in! I use standard grade 5 bolts. Put some never seize on them before putting them in and pay attention to the torque specs, it is much lighter than you would think. Don't ask, I don't know it right off the top of my head. A1 without the gasket is different than A2 with the gasket.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: Yoke Wear Sleeves

Unread post by Grasshopper » February 12th, 2018, 9:47 am

This winter my A2 has loaned a few parts to a friend of mines customer's MUTT, a much hacked about A2 imported from Vietnam (and yes we know an A2 is too late to have served in combat there) - story goes the owner went to a shop to buy a scooter and came out with a MUTT! He really ought to have bought a scooter, the MUTT was that bad...). Anyway, having crawled under mine to place a bowl to collect coolant (I was lending him my temperature sender - another story!), I noted that my transmission oil has all fallen out again. Having placed an order for a replacement temp sender for my motor, I have now bitten the bullet and ordered new transmission flanges for mine (the ones installed during seal repalcement turned out to be differently worn to the ones I removed) and a new selector shaft seal. I will look at the feasibility of removing the shaft seal by welding plates on as described elsewhere on this forum. I'll let you know how we get on!

Vince

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