New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

This is the place to get help with technical matters concerning your M151 jeep

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CentraSpike75
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New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by CentraSpike75 » March 14th, 2017, 3:03 pm

Hello everyone,
2 weeks ago a found this beauty 20 min. from my house! Thank you craigslist.
Due to missing data plate and sanded hood, I messaged Muttguru and he was able to tell me it was a 1965 April/May delivery.
Overall the Mutt is complete and the body is in very good shape aside from the areas in the pictures and the battery floor. I slid underneath and went over the sub-frame with a ball peen hammer and a punch and everything seems solid.
I got a great deal and it also came with a complete additional power pack, top bows and a NOS bench seat and cushions.
It has not been started in ??? both engines turn free but there are quite a few things that need done prior to starting.
The fuel tank is full of nasty fuel and rust, going to have it cleaned and sealed. I have a carb kit on the way and will rebuild the carb. Fuel lines will be replaces ect.
Question, the vent lines are brass. Is this normal? They need replaced and I am going to make new ones.
Also when I removed the valve cover there is rust to the rear indicating water damage. Is it worth trying to get this engine running or just rebuild the spare engine?
How have people fabricated the radius at the bottom of the front fenders/front of the rear fenders?
I have a bead roller and I am going to make my own patch for the rear. I will go with Cameron Mfg. for the side damage.
http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/milspec33/library/
Is it possible to post pictures directly?
Thank you,
Andy
Corpsman, even Marines need heroes
1965 M151A1
M151 A1 parts vehicle
1951 M37
2010 M-Gator A1 Sold
2003 M-Gator Sold
M100 Trailer Sold
M105A2 Trailer Sold

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rickf
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by rickf » March 14th, 2017, 3:34 pm

Hello Andy and welcome. The lines are normally steel but are replaced with copper on a regular basis due to ease of bending the copper line. As far as pictures, it is easy. In Photobucket you ope your picture and on the upper right side you will see some links. click on the one that has IMG in it and it will flash "copied". Then go to your post in the 8383 and just right click paste in the post and there is your picture. In the picture of the side panel I see what appears to be a patch right next to the battery box, is this a cut mutt? Also, as far as the rust in the engine. I would drain the oil since what you are seeing is condensation and that will get rid of any water in the oil. Wipe off the worst of the rust with a rag and turn the engine over by hand a couple full revolutions after putting some oil in each plug hole. This gets the cylinder oiled up and makes sure the valves are not stuck. It would not hurt to pour a quart of Marvel Mystery oil over the valve train and then fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil instead of 5 and add a new filter. Once this is all don you should be ready to fire it up. These are very robust little engines. You said the tank is nasty, what are you doing for a fuel pump? Does it still have the stock pump in the tank or the later A2 pump on the engine? Answered my own question, looked at your pics and see it has the in tank pump. That will need to be checked out as well.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

CentraSpike75
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by CentraSpike75 » March 14th, 2017, 4:48 pm

Thank you for the reply and the picture help.
I am happy to hear the engine should just need some TLC.
Wiring harness is junk. I would like to switch to a solid state ignition. In addition to the ignition and voltage regulator do I need to switch from a generator to an alternator? I noticed that A1 wiring harnesses are scarce, how hard is it to switch to an A2?
The Mutt has not been cut. The underside is in good shape with a solid subframe and nice floors, tool box and fender wells. The area on the side panel does have a strange rust through pattern. The battery floor is roached out but i do not see any evidence of a patch. I messily sprayed some black Rustoilem enamel on seams body and over existing rust because it is sitting outside until I finish my pole building/shop.
Thanks again,
Andy
Corpsman, even Marines need heroes
1965 M151A1
M151 A1 parts vehicle
1951 M37
2010 M-Gator A1 Sold
2003 M-Gator Sold
M100 Trailer Sold
M105A2 Trailer Sold

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rickf
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by rickf » March 14th, 2017, 5:42 pm

The 25 amp generator will suffice just fine and the regulator has to stay with the generator. The electronic ignition, you want to use the Swiss controls setup and not the Prestolite but the problem is that finding NOS Swiss controls units is hard anymore and the Chinese replicas are less than dependable. Same with the coils. I was just talking to one of my suppliers and he told me that the offshore coils from Korea are MUCH better than the Chinese ones. I forgot to find out how to tell the difference. I should be meeting with him again soon and I will ask. One of our members on here, Fil Bonica, has the replacement battery box floors.

Oh, the wiring harness, yes you can use an A2 harness but you have to add a circuit for the oil pressure safety switch and fuel pump. The wiring for the 25 amp generator generally does not go bad so you can sneak that out of the original harness and reuse it OR, you can convert to a 60 amp alternator and eliminate the regulator since the regulator is built in with the alternator and the A2 harness will have all the connections. A1 harness' are available aftermarket but very, very expensive! 1200.00 last time I checked. I will modify the A2 harness! You will also need to extend the turn signal wires in the front. There are several different variables on how to do the conversion depending on what else you are doing.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by Fil Bonica » March 14th, 2017, 5:55 pm

I have replacement battery box floors when you are ready to attack that project.
An A2 harness is the easiest thing to do to correct tha problem.
Plenty of them around at reasonable prices.
Prep the engine, clean out the gas tank if possible and get the intank going.
You will get an idea of what you are up aganst.
Welcome aboad !

Fil Bonica
K1ABW

CentraSpike75
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by CentraSpike75 » March 14th, 2017, 6:01 pm

Oh yea..the fuel pump. I have not pulled it yet but I can only imagine. Up for suggestions :o
Overall I am going to repair/replace with a restoration mindset. Any modifications I make will be easily converted back to stock.
Right now I am leaning towards 4 color gray desert MERDC with a FAV appearance (I know the FAVs were A2 but hey I like them and I have an A1)
I have a heater kit and fording kit to install once the mechanical issues and rust are repaired.
Corpsman, even Marines need heroes
1965 M151A1
M151 A1 parts vehicle
1951 M37
2010 M-Gator A1 Sold
2003 M-Gator Sold
M100 Trailer Sold
M105A2 Trailer Sold

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rickf
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by rickf » March 14th, 2017, 6:16 pm

Personal choice, I have a NOS heater kit still in the box. Been there for quite a few years and probably will get sold in the box with the vehicle. For the trouble that kit is to put in unless you are using it in the winter enough to justify using the heater than to me it is not worth it. The slave connector part of the kit I would install because they come in handy. Fording exhaust is another add on that in my opinion is not needed. If you REALLY want it then fine but consider this, you will lose some power with it, you will spray soot all over anything behind you as it warms up in the morning, (And that stuff does NOT come off)AND, If the fording intake brace is installed you cannot run the doors without cutting a hole in the door for the brace and then you have to remove the brace every time you want to take the door off. There is a work around on that last one using one of the windshield hinge bolts outside of the body.

As far as the fuel pump, get it out of there and see what it looks like. Hook a ground wire to the ground tab and put 24 volts to the hot lead and see if it rattles as it should. If it does then you are good to go, the alcohol in todays gas will clean it out just fine. If it does not rattle then spry some carb cleaner in it and shake it around a bit and try it again. Do this several times. If you suspect it is bad you can put a meter between the two contacts and if it reads open circuit then the wire is probably broken.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by Hambone » March 14th, 2017, 7:36 pm

Welcome Spike, looking forward to the rebuild, lots of knowledge on this site, so ask all the questions, let us know if you need any parts, several members with parts available or can steer you to the right vendor. Hambone

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by m3a1 » March 14th, 2017, 7:55 pm

In other words, Spike....misery loves company! But seriously, a lot of us have tread the path you are on so, have no fear. As Hambone said, lots of good advice on the g838.

My first recommendation is to give that thing a good scrubbing. It doesn't help with the work but it will sure help your mindset.

Cheers,
TJ

CentraSpike75
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by CentraSpike75 » March 14th, 2017, 7:58 pm

Thank you for everyone's help and the warm welcome.
I found a solid state ignition at Rapco, it does not state the manufacturer. Thoughts?
Looks like I will go with an A2 harness.
My Mutt has a heater core installed but it is rough. I figure since all the holes are there I will install the NOS kit.
For the fording exhaust I may drill a hole in the exhaust before it turns up and weld a nut so I can plug it for fording.
I am not planning on adding doors unless I move north again :lol:
I have not found a wiring harness for sale that goes from the turn signal lever to the flasher module, anyone have one?
Also what size is the tubing for the vent lines,if someone knows off hand, if not I will check tomorrow.
Thanks,
Andy
Corpsman, even Marines need heroes
1965 M151A1
M151 A1 parts vehicle
1951 M37
2010 M-Gator A1 Sold
2003 M-Gator Sold
M100 Trailer Sold
M105A2 Trailer Sold

SturmTyger380
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by SturmTyger380 » March 15th, 2017, 9:22 am

Welcome and that looks like a fine M151A1. I am just up the road from you near Greenville. Alan
45' MB, ??' MBT, 47' CJ2A, 48' CJ2A,
51' M38 #1, 51' M38 #2, 51' M100,
52' M37, ??' M101A1 (1st Gulf War Vet),
53' M38A1, 53' M211, 65' M151A1, 67' M416,
MVPA #31724

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by raymond » March 15th, 2017, 10:26 pm

Welcome. :D The 25 amp generator will provide ample power for your M151 unless you are running a high power radio. 25 amps does not sound like much, but remember that is 25 amps at 24 volts. The simplest form of Ohm's Law says that volts x amps = watts. Watts always stays the same and amperage and voltage are inversely proportional. Thus, if you double your voltage, you halve your amperage. So a 24 volt system that puts out 25 amps is equivalent to a 12 volt system that puts out 50 amps. Either system would put out 600 watts.

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by SturmTyger380 » March 16th, 2017, 11:43 am

Even if you run a radio unless you are going to be operating it all the time the smaller generator is still fine.

I kept my original generator with my RT524 and R422. The RT keys up fine and transmits. I do that maybe once a year when I am at an event with one of my friends. :lol:
45' MB, ??' MBT, 47' CJ2A, 48' CJ2A,
51' M38 #1, 51' M38 #2, 51' M100,
52' M37, ??' M101A1 (1st Gulf War Vet),
53' M38A1, 53' M211, 65' M151A1, 67' M416,
MVPA #31724

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rickf
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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by rickf » March 16th, 2017, 11:58 am

I think his main concern with the generator is the fact that he needs a new harness and if he goes with the A2 harness he would need to convert it to the 25 amp setup whereas it is already setup for the 60 amp alternator.

IF you decide to go with the 60 amp alternator you will need the pulley set to go with it since it use a three belt pulley that is a different size diameter on the alternator and on the water pump. The belts are a different size also and you need to get a matched set or they will not all fit tight.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: New to me 1965 M151A1 questions

Unread post by lpcoating » March 16th, 2017, 12:08 pm

Welcome to the site.

Guy

www.m151bodypanels.com
M151 Body Panels - http://www.m151bodypanels.com/

'68 A1 - Under full resto

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