Brake line full replacement

[Husker]

So I'm at the point of reassembling the "major assembly's" each rear A arm the front suspension. Just put the first one back together after cleaning painting and rebushing it and now installing the brake lines.
Now this is my first time doing it I have had good discuss replaceing metal line on my TJ and have a cutter bender and flare tool that does 45 degree flares to but it almost looks like the mutts flare is more then a 45 angle does anyone have any insight into that? And any tips for the full replacement once I get the body back?

[rickf]

They use the same standard double flare as all of the US vehicles on brake lines. No vehicle uses a single 45 degree flare. That is for low pressure fluid lines.

[raymond]

I replaced all the lines on my M151 about 10 years ago. I bought several long pieces of the tubing and cut and bent it to fit. My only advice is to not use the cloth loom covering. The old lines I removed were in the worst shape in areas where the old cloth loom was still intact. It held dirt and water against the steel lines and facilitated rust.

[Husker]

Yea I did the 45 degree double flare. I was given a spring looking thin as a sort of rock protected I was considering using for the main lines under the mutt. I finished the rear A arm flared both ends connected to the wheel cylinder and the rubber brake line. I don't want to paint the lines but should i?

[Mr. Recovery]

I always try to use the armored line "green coating" it cost a little more but should last a lot longer, as for painting it will help slow the rust.