Engine seize after assembly

[rickf]

What was done to the cam that is in there? And I am assuming the cam bearings were not changed? The pistons will have an arrow on top or a notch on one side of the piston crown and that always faces the front, did you do that? The rod caps are numbered with matching numbers on the rod, did you match the cap and rods and get the numbers on the same side? And the rings have to be arranged with the gaps in a certain pattern. All of these things will determine if you have to pull the head and take all of that out and start over. You may be able to get away with switching the pistons around as long as all the numbers are matching. No promises on that one hence the need for plastigauge. It is cheap, buy it. Is the engine still on an engine stand? If so put some oil in each spark plug hole, leave the plugs out. If you have a squirt type oil can then at least 6-7 squirts of oil in each cylinder and let it sit over night. This is to lubricate the cylinder walls. When you roll the engine over and take the pan off you need to loosen one rod at a time and with a couple of the clutch bolts in the flywheel put a long screwdriver across them and try to turn it. Not hard at all, it should turn easy. If not, tighten that rod and go to the next and loosen it and try again. Do this pattern for every rod and see if it is only one that is tight. You are going to take all the caps and bearings out to inspect them but this will tell you if only one was an issue. Write down all findings because you will forget once you move to something else, trust me on this. Now, take out each bearing set and set it aside in the order it came out and inspect them for damage. once you get al of this into your head let me know and we will move on.

[rickf]

I just saw you last post after I posted mine. So you had the crank ground. I assume you put in the correct undersize bearings? This is where I always checked with plastigauge and found several times that the crank had not been accurately done. In order to check the bearing clearance with plastigauge the crank and bearing have to be dry so you will clean off the area of the crank and the bearing half in the cap with carb cleaner and then install the cap and torque it down then remove it and compare the smashed piece to the chart on the package. Mark each one done on a paper and wipe off the residue and oil the crankshaft and bearings as long as the measurements came out good and reinstall. Same thing goes for the rods but you will need to turn the crank to get to different rods so only do the two you can get to and then reoil them or push the rod and piston all the way up to the head and put fuel line on the rod bolts to protect the crankshaft, then turn it to do the other two.

[rickf]

One final note, if there is any question about the orientation of the pistons or rings then the pistons will need to come out so a lot of this will be done in a different way. Let me know which route you are taking. Remember, it is in front of you, not me. I can only advise you based on the input you give me. You have to be my eyes. A camera and pictures helps a lot! If you can't put them on here I will send you my e-mail.

[m3a1]

I'm following this with great interest and I don't want to complicate this thread any further, but is there any possibility that the bearings might have been installed in such a way that the oil galleries or the rod or main journals were blocked?

Cheers,
TJ

[Husker]

I didn't have anything ground or machined down I only took it apart cleaned it and put it back together
When torqued to spec the crankshaft spun fine in its place
All the notches on the pistons face forward as it said in the Tm and each has its original rod cap and bearings

[Husker]

I will attempt this this weekend or if I have free time during the week

[rickf]

I'll buy replacement rod bearings then if I do should I have the camshaft ground again?

Here is why I keep asking about the grinding of the crankshaft, It appears by this statement that you had it ground when you ask if it will need to be done again.
I am not trying to be a pain in the butt but I do need a clear picture if I am going to steer yo in the right direction. If the crank was ground and you put standard bearings in there it would spin very free. BUT, you will have no oil pressure when you start it! Again, plastigauge.

From what you are telling me in your last post there should not be any issues. With the exception of the one question above and that would not cause it to seize. I have a question, what makes you think it is seized? How much force are you having to put on it to turn it over? With the flywheel on there and no spark plugs in it is going to take both hands on the flywheel to get it to turn. It will not just freely spin.

[Husker]

Yea nothing has been ground at all. I have the flywheel installed and it won't move at all so I stoped trying I remember it moved before I took it down with minimal effort on the flywheel
But I just got cycled back in my flight school class due to lack of instructors so I have 2 weeks semi off

[Fil Bonica]

By any chance is the flywheel jambed against the block or did crank go in wrong?
Just a thought.

Fil Bonica

[Husker]

I have a strong feeling the issue will lie with the connecting rod bearings or the way I installed them

[Fil Bonica]

It may be time for you to get local help to solve the problem.
Too much going on there to diagnose via remote control:
Just a thought.

Fil Bonica

[Husker]

Once I do what rick said it should be easier

[rickf]

I agree that it appears to be in the rod assembly. Follow the directions I gave you above regarding the loosening of the rods one by one and then take all the bearings out in order and see what they look like. Let us know what you find. I bet you find you got one of the bearing shells in backwards and the tab on the shell jammed the bearing.

[Husker]

I will and I'll post pictures

[Husker]

Loosed each one and attempted to move the driveshaft as always it was the last one I tried that was stuck #1 piston or the farthest forward piston

The top bearing information I have no idea how to tell the sizing



Bottom bearing



It's currently rainin I'm about to go get lunch and stop by the auto parts store for plastigauge if they have it

Where would I find the bearing info and a site to get those and probably a new pack of seals since my oil pan seal is now destroyed and I asssume the head seal will be to when I remove it to change the bearings