Engine test on stand

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Re: Engine test on stand

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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 24th, 2017, 11:18 am

Autozone no longer sells the airtex pump it showed up in there inventory at 17 dollars and out of stock at the stores and hub
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 24th, 2017, 11:33 am

Orielly and advanced didn't have it to but I ordered it off Amazon so there's a plus
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Fil Bonica » September 24th, 2017, 11:56 am

Warch out for oil in engine.
May be polluted with gasoline.

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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 24th, 2017, 12:35 pm

I'll check it but it would only be a minute amount it did not draw up any gas and only took one syringe down the tube


Can I replace the pump without draining the oil?
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » September 24th, 2017, 12:58 pm

Yes,
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 24th, 2017, 2:42 pm

Exellent
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 27th, 2017, 8:29 pm

New pump installed fuel pressure is exellent

But I melted my jumper cables on the distributor


Anyone have the pigtail from the distributor they would sell or lend to me?
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » September 28th, 2017, 8:39 am

Tell me you did NOT hook the hot wire right to the outside of the distributor?!!!!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Hambone » September 28th, 2017, 9:05 am

All you need to do is crimp a butt splicer on the end of a jumper wire, it will slide right over the pin that sticks out of the distributor, I think I used a blue butt splicer.
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 28th, 2017, 11:43 am

I did rick........ not for long but it was enough to fried the finless brown trout out of the jumper cable.............. is it ruined........
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » September 28th, 2017, 11:44 am

That was a fun auto correct sentence.......
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » October 7th, 2017, 12:27 pm

Great starts today thanks to the distributor cable from bazooka Joe
Solid fuel pressure from the new pump

Filled up my radiator which has some small leaks sadly but not to bad


The ran the engine for about 2 minutes and adjusted the distributor position to try and get a better idle should I run it longer? It took a bit to get it going playing with the chicke and throttle on the carb but these are the first times this engine has run in god knows how long and after a complete rebuild
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » October 7th, 2017, 4:10 pm

You can run it for as long as yo want, as long as it has oil and water it can run fr days. Well gas would help. :roll:
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby Husker » October 7th, 2017, 5:24 pm

Cool

I'm gonna try and hook up the temp and pressure gauges for a longer run
Any ideas do I ground one side of the gauge and then the other run it to the sensor

I ran the belts and mounted my generator to is there 60 amp any way I can run it to charge my batteries?
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Re: Engine test on stand

Postby rickf » October 7th, 2017, 7:06 pm

Don't get too crazy with all kinds of electrics. It will get real complicated real quick and you will end up burning something up. It is best to just leave the alternator completely disconnected. Any kind of jury rigging and you get a spike and then you will fry the regulator and they are NOT cheap. The gauge should have a hot wire going to the positive side of the gauge, negative side of the gauge to the sending unit. Engine is already grounded to the batteries and should stay that way. Leave the ground wire hooked up at all times and only hook and un-hook the positive wire to the coil and the gauges. Here is a trick you can do if you want. If you have a dash panel out of a mutt you can run a ground from it to the batteries and then set up the hot wire for the gauges (It should be one wire for all the gauges if I remember correctly) with an alligator clip. Clip this to the hot side of the batteries when you are ready to start. Run the negative wire from each gauge to it's respective sending unit. You will only be using the oil pressure and water temp. Honestly, I would not use that oil pressure gauge, I would use a mechanical gauge plugged into the engine by the oil filter.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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