throw out bearing and final notes

**Sponsor**

by **incoming** » May 14th, 2018, 9:33 pm

First, let me thank everyone for their help. Without your input, this job would have been much more difficult......and I'm getting close to finishing it up!
I successfully pulled the engine, replaced the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and have a new throw out bearing (a piece of spring from the clutch had broken off and was wedged in between the flywheel and clutch which was the cause of this whole endeavor). I installed a new transfer shaft with the fork, clips and spring and now the four wheel drive engages and disengages as it should! Manufactured a few gaskets (bell housing, inspection cover, starter) that were hard to find. I just have a few more questions:
1. The manual says the 6 pressure plate bolts are to be torqued to the flywheel at between 8 and 10lbs. Seems mighty light to me?
2. I was inspecting the starter and pulled the end that engages the flywheel to its outermost setting. Can't get it to spring back in so it will not be in
contact with the flywheel when I reinstall it. How do I get it to retract?
3. What oil would you recommend for the transmission (I know which hole to fill it through!)?
4. What oil would you recommend for the engine?
5. I can't find any info about pressing the throw out bearing into the housing it goes in. The old one took very little pressure to come out and I can see where it was seated. It did not appear to be pressed in much at all. Was wondering how/if to press the throw out bearing into the housing (that is later placed in the clutch fork). On the install, when is the best time to put the throw out bearing into the fork?

I think that should finish the reassembly, but you never know. I will definitely be keeping you more experienced folks posted!
Thanks again,
Pat

by **rickf** » May 15th, 2018, 8:45 am

Glad to see you are getting things back together, would like to have seen this added to the old thread so that it would all make sense to someone coming in late.

1 I would have to check the manual myself but if that is what it calls for then do it but clean the threads and put blue lock-tite on them.
2 Leave the bendix in the position it is in and just install the starter that way, The bendix is wound back in by the rotation of the engine when it starts. This is perfectly normal.
3 Any 90W or multi grade gear oil with a GL-4 or lower designation is safe for sure. GL-5 is safe IF it has the MT-1 additive added, which most do. BUT, I would recommend that you do not use it since there is always the chance that it may still eat the yellow metals. You can buy good old fashioned straight 90W gear oil in Tractor Supply but the newer multigrade oils are much better.
4 15W-40 diesel rated oil. I prefer Rotella but any brand name will do. The diesel rated oils still have higher levels of zinc in them for flat tappet lubrication and also have additive to keep carbon in suspension which most automotive oils don't have anymore since computer controls have pretty much eliminated excess gas in the oil.
5 It has been a long time since I did this one but I seem to remember that it was just a push in by hand and I put it in before I put the assembly on the fork. Somebody who has done it recently may correct me on that one.

by **Fil Bonica** » May 15th, 2018, 9:51 am

Always set pilot bearing with a block of oak and a hammer.
Should go in very easily that way.
Place the throw out bearin lg in its carrier before you install the transmission.
Make sure you install the correct way.

Fil Bonica

by **muttguru** » May 15th, 2018, 12:51 pm

incoming wrote:............... I just have a few more questions:
1. The manual says the 6 pressure plate bolts are to be torqued to the flywheel at between 8 and 10lbs. Seems mighty light to me?
Thanks again,
Pat

Pat....where did you get those figures from? The 34-series TMs state 20 to 25 lb/ft. And as Rick says....use LocTite on the threads of those bolts.
Ken

by **Hambone** » May 15th, 2018, 7:33 pm

Pat
Glad to hear you are making headway on the project, seems like you have more mechanical ability than you admit, I knew these guys would walk you right through it. Looks like I may be losing my traveling mechanic job, :lol:

, nice to have a site like this where everyone is generous enough to share their knowledge, these guy are to be commended. :wink:

by **rickf** » May 15th, 2018, 7:53 pm

Oh MAN! You didn't let HIM work on it did you?!!! It will never run again! :twisted:

by **incoming** » May 15th, 2018, 10:11 pm

Thanks so much guys. I've got the answers I need due to your information. I am really grateful for this website!! I will keep you posted on the progress that I make and then let you know when the MUTT is back on the road. Again, I am indebted for your services! Mutt guru, I'm not sure of the manual (it is in the shop and I am in the bed!) I have but it is the one with all of the pictures, not diagrams. It clearly states 8 - 10ft lbs for the "pressure plate bolts to flywheel". I'm going with your recommendation of 25ft lbs and use locktite. Rick, thanks for all the technical advice.
Thank you all kindly.
Pat

by **Hambone** » May 16th, 2018, 1:50 pm

rickf wrote:Oh MAN! You didn't let HIM work on it did you?!!! It will never run again!

Tranny may be down but I bet it runs good. :twisted:

by **incoming** » May 16th, 2018, 9:43 pm

Ran like a top, Hambone.........before I pulled the engine!

by **incoming** » May 17th, 2018, 9:00 pm

Nobody told me how fun it was to stab the transmission! The good news is that I got it done. Got the starter put in but could not find torque specs on it in the 31 or 20 manuals, so tightened it firmly. I'm doing everything by the book and using the advice from this site. The moment of truth will be when I hit that starter button with my foot. That may be a couple of weeks off due to other obligations on the weekend. Thanks again for all the help!
Pat

by **rickf** » May 18th, 2018, 10:15 am

If you cannot find the torque spec you can always look up standard torque specs for that size and thread bolt. TJ put a chart up on here somewhere with the specs. Most bolts on military vehicles are grade eight and fine thread but once you get into the motor and transmission they can be coarse thread and grade five or eight depending on where they are.

by **Mark** » May 18th, 2018, 11:15 am

I wonder if my memory is correct in removing the transmission from the jeep--I would remove the transmission from the bell housing, then remove the bell housing, so i didn't remove the power pack?

by **Fil Bonica** » May 18th, 2018, 11:31 am

Just not the room to do it effectively.
Much easier to remove entire assembly at one time.

Fil Bonica

by **incoming** » May 18th, 2018, 8:51 pm

I removed the entire power pack, and to be honest, it was a breeze. Now separating the two and getting into the clutch and flywheel assembly was a little more difficult, but nothing that was too challenging.....except stabbing the tranny back in. The tranny shaft had to line up perfectly at all the right angles before it would finally seat into the flywheel bearing before tightening the tranny back to the bell housing. A little patience, a little finesse, a little jiggling and it went in with a clunk! Put on the inspection cover today. Going to go ahead and fill everything with lubricant before putting the engine back into the jeep.