1974 M151A2 differential and radiator leaks question

[mike_v]

Quick question on leaks around the output axle flanges and drive-line input flange.

I see on eBay and the Jeep parts websites for the three metal and rubber seal and spacer kits.

Can I put those on while the differentials are still mounted?

My radiator is seeping antifreeze near the bottom - have not pulled the fan shroud or radiator yet to pinpoint the leak. New radiators are $325 and over $400-$500 at other places. Not sure about buying a used radiator...

Have you guys had success having the original re-cored/repaired at a radiator shop?

Recommended best course of action?

Now that I'm fully retired, I'm not as "flush" with money as I used to be...

After I get familiar with this site, I'll try searching out the answers to my questions first and refer to the TMs...

[Hambone]

On the diff., freezing the yokes will help when installing the wear sleeves, also, don't force the yokes on too fast, it will pop the rubber plug out of the end, then you will have a leak for sure.

[Fil Bonica]

Dont buy one of the repro radiators on the market now.
Most are full if defects such as missing screw holes caps that wont fit
Dont ask me how I lnow.
A rebuilt would be okay if it comes from a known shop.
A nos one could cost $500 .
Those are some things to consider.

Fil Bonica

[rickf]

Recores are a crapshoot. The guy who used to do all of my work stopped doing it because the cost of USA made core went so high that nobody was going to pay for one as opposed to buying a new aluminum radiator. You probably can't find a direct fit aluminum rad for a M-151 and if you do grab it but the same thing applies to the 151. Chinese cores are half the thickness of the US cores and if put under any real pressure they will balloon the tubes. That was why he stopped using them, one or two warrantee jobs and your profit is out the window and from then on you are working for free or worse. Now, with that said the cap on a mutt is 7# so you will not balloon the core at that pressure but keep in mind that it is half thickness so that means it is susceptible to impact damage from sticks and branches if you drive off road.

[rickf]

And you will find the original military seals are a BITCH to get out!!! Be prepared and be careful not to gouge the side of the case or you will have a leak around the outside edge of the seal.

[mike_v]

Thanks for all the replies and advice guys!

I'll steer clear of those chinese radiators for sure.

[m3a1]

And you will find the original military seals are a BITCH to get out!!! Be prepared and be careful not to gouge the side of the case or you will have a leak around the outside edge of the seal.

Uh oh. Now I'm going to have to take the moderator in hand. Rick, you used the B-word. That'll cost you a case of beer, donated to the next party.

Cheers,
TJ

[rickf]

You have a better way to describe removing those particular seals? And I have a case of beer right here in the cooler on the porch, been there for about a year and a half waiting for you to show up. It should still be good though. Last time I shot one with the pellet gun it exploded preety good so still got head to it.

[m3a1]

You shot a can of beer?!! That's alcohol abuse!!

You KNOW I have a better way of describing it but it would take me a page and a half to do it and it would be in iambic pentameter.

....and you were just speaking in cursive, right?



Cheers,
TJ

[rickf]

I no longer drink so no loss to me. I bought this beer for a rally and nobody else drank it either so it came home and has sat in the cooler ever since. The cooler and the beer are both shot so what better way to dispose of it than to shoot it.

[enn_8]

BLUF: I'm a newb looking to restore my late father's MUTT. It's been a while since this thread has been active but I've run into the same issue with my 1970 A1. I was looking at ArmyJeepParts.com and saw their $475 radiator for sale.

As I am just getting into this community, I don't recognize the red flags. Is buying online a good idea or should I start digging exclusively for local sources? I live near Fort Bragg, NC and drive down to Lejeune often. The radiator is just step one...

Any help is appreciated!
r/Kevin

[Hambone]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M151-VEHICLE-F ... Sw81dZsuuJ

[1SGCAV77]

I bought one of these radiators from Red River. Solved my leaking radiator problem.

[mutt and jeff]

A good radiator shop will test the radiator and give you some options. I recently had a MUTT radiator tested, cleaned out, a few pinholes soldered up and they even spray painted it with special paint that won't affect the cooling fins. Total cost? $65.00. I might only get another few years out of it, but it is an option.

Stay away from BARS LEAK or other products that will plug up your cooling system. Not enough pressure in these radiators to make them even remotely effective.

[rickf]

Bars Leaks will NOT plug up your cooling system. This is poor information that has circulated for years. I have used it both personally and professionally for 50 year and the only time it ever clogged anything up was when the cores of heaters were already plugged with crap, and a reverse flush cleaned them right out. Bars Leaks works by plugging small leaks where fluid is flowing at a high rate through a small enough hole that the fibers in the product will plug the hole. It will have no effect whatsoever on normal water passages since there is no high velocity small pinholes to plug in the system.
Liquid glass on the other hand, is bad news. It is known as a head gasket repair. Bars leaks will not repair blown head gaskets and never says it will. The head gasket repair products are all a class of products know as liquid glass and they are bad news.