engine

[rupert's]

This is maddening! I was happy repairing sheet metal, cutting, welding ... if a sheet is rusty, bent or whatever, I know what I should do but the mechanical and electrical problems I have now make me desperate. I have changed parts to prevent problems but even so when it seems that everything is fine, another problem appears that cannot be solved.

Today I started the engine for a moment and I could see that the alternator is not charging. I bought an alternator and plugged it in, https://www.g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12793&start=90 has been working fine and now no longer charging. The multimeter shows 24v or 25v.

Before I always charged at 28v, I have checked the voltage at the alternator output and on the batteries and nothing, the 568 cable is well connected, the alternator rotates with the engine, there is no strange noise and both batteries are new.
I don't know ... will I have a broken alternator? Any suggestions or checks I can make? Thank you for your advices! Greetings to all

[rickf]

Sounds like the voltage regulator went out but download this manual and look up the 60 amp alternator (generator in the manual) and it will give you all the tests to do. Easier than me trying to explain it.

https://radionerds.com/index.php/File:D ... 750-33.pdf

[rupert's]

Received Rick! I will do the checks now, thanks for your quick reply!

[rupert's]

Well, it's all done ...
In test 2 step F and step G I had to mark between 50 and 80 ohms and my meter does not move, it does not give any reading. I think this means that the rectifier is bad ...
The rectifier is this part? https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 99130.html

[svramselaar]

hi

i have nor reed the all page`s
only there are three different regulators type
one has the wire`s and the other has the spade lips and there is one with round connecters

look first if at the
wire nr 5 is alwais power
wire nr 568 power from contact
and if there is ground at the alternator

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george

[rupert's]

hi

i have nor reed the all page`s
only there are three different regulators type
one has the wire`s and the other has the spade lips and there is one with round connecters

look first if at the
wire nr 5 is alwais power
wire nr 568 power from contact
and if there is ground at the alternator

https://southernautomotive.com/catalog/ ... ad56343f84
https://southernautomotive.com/catalog/ ... ad56343f84
https://southernautomotive.com/catalog/ ... ad56343f84


george

Hello Jorge! in response to your comment.

The n5 is always the positive, it has continuity in all the positives
The 568 does not know exactly what you mean but I have made the checks indicated in the manual.
The alternator has ground, from the ground of the alternator it has continuity to any ground that you can check on the vehicle

[rickf]

568 will have power when the ignition switch is turned on. This is a good point because if there is no power on that wire then the alternator thinks the ignition is off and will not charge. These regulators apparently are not very robust (strong 0 since any voltage spike seems to take them out. Never, EVER take the battery cable off while the engine is running! This is death to most alternators. Jump starting should be done with the engine turned off and then started after cables are hooked up, Assuming you are the person doing the jump and not the one with the dead battery.

[rickf]

I find it interesting working with people from other countries with different languages and cultures. I find I have to explain things in a completely different manner than I am used to and it gives me new perspective on some of these jobs. Understanding George can be a challenge but I think over the years I have it mostly figured out. Rupert, your explanations are very good and your translations are excellent but some of the different names for items throws me. Considering we are all probably using a translator program how hard is it for you two to understand what I am explaining?

Horst and Richard, I am not including you in this since I have met both of you in person and I know your English is better than the English spoken here!

[rupert's]

568 will have power when the ignition switch is turned on. This is a good point because if there is no power on that wire then the alternator thinks the ignition is off and will not charge. These regulators apparently are not very robust (strong 0 since any voltage spike seems to take them out. Never, EVER take the battery cable off while the engine is running! This is death to most alternators. Jump starting should be done with the engine turned off and then started after cables are hooked up, Assuming you are the person doing the jump and not the one with the dead battery.

Rickf the 568 has power only when the ignition switch is ON. 25v same as the whole car.
With the switch off you have no power.

Jump starting ... I understand you mean using an external battery to jump start. Until now I have never had to.
In this part it seems that the translator is contradicting himself, the steps will be ...
Power switch off
Connect another battery
Switch to ON and start the engine.

[rupert's]

I find it interesting working with people from other countries with different languages and cultures. I find I have to explain things in a completely different manner than I am used to and it gives me new perspective on some of these jobs. Understanding George can be a challenge but I think over the years I have it mostly figured out. Rupert, your explanations are very good and your translations are excellent but some of the different names for items throws me. Considering we are all probably using a translator program how hard is it for you two to understand what I am explaining?

Horst and Richard, I am not including you in this since I have met both of you in person and I know your English is better than the English spoken here!

I almost always understand well everything you tell me, you usually explain everything well ... Only sometimes I don't understand or I have to think about the translation.
Horst is also very responsive and is well understood.

I also have to think about the answer, I know that sometimes the translator is not very good at doing his job, I try to be clear in what I say without using many expressions.

Earth or mass, always means negative pole
Continuity I mean that they are communicated, for example, the negative terminal of the battery has continuity with the alternator screw (or with another body screw)

The positive terminal has continuity with all the positive cables, for example that of a light ...
If you don't understand something, tell me.

For now I'm going to remove the alternator and talk to the store that sold it to me, to see if they can give me a solution.

[rupert's]

I bought the alternator from Perini 5 months ago, it has been working and now that it breaks it says that I have broken it and does not want to take care of the alternator problem ...
I don't understand it, it has worked well for a while, then the car has been stopped while I was repairing the brake pedal problem and when I started it again I saw on the scoreboard that it does not load. I'm still struggling with him but I don't see him willing to take over, and I've also read here some not very good comment about Perini.

Will this piece be the problem?https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 99130.html
Can't I repair mine?

Un saludo

[Horst]

That is the regulator, I have not fully followed your troubleshooting process, have you confirmed the voltage regulator is defective? As it also could be a blown rectifier (diode). I don't have the time today to dig into this further, maybe George can chime in.

[svramselaar]

Hi

For so far I know the regulator works beween the neg brush and the ground
If you drive the alternator at a testbench
Take the regulator off (let the wire's on )
Put the backschield with à wire at ground
Take a testinglite put one Side at ground
If you look inside the alternator you see the brush holder
Tip with the Testlite at the wire's
At one Side Notting happends ( only Your lite Burns )
At the other brush if the regulator is not OK it Will work
Then you know it

George

[rupert's]

That is the regulator, I have not fully followed your troubleshooting process, have you confirmed the voltage regulator is defective? As it also could be a blown rectifier (diode). I don't have the time today to dig into this further, maybe George can chime in.

Horst, I have followed the manual that rickf sent me to detect the problem, and the result was that the fault was in the rectifier.
I could be wrong because when translating the manual sometimes it is not well understood, but I am almost sure that I have measured everything correctly and I was having a fault in the rectifier.

I was talking about it with an electrician friend, and he told me the same thing that you just said ... his words were: these are diodes.
My generator is like this: https://kemper-parts.com/en/ford-mutt-m ... amp?c=1284
I don't understand electricity, but maybe these diodes can be changed.
If anyone knows where these diodes are and if they can be repaired, it would be very useful.

Hi

For so far I know the regulator works beween the neg brush and the ground
If you drive the alternator at a testbench
Take the regulator off (let the wire's on )
Put the backschield with à wire at ground
Take a testinglite put one Side at ground
If you look inside the alternator you see the brush holder
Tip with the Testlite at the wire's
At one Side Notting happends ( only Your lite Burns )
At the other brush if the regulator is not OK it Will work
Then you know it

George

George!
I see that you are giving me instructions but the translator does not tell me clearly what I have to do.
I have the generator out of the car and I think the fault is in the rectifier.

[Mark]

wrong post for my comment--delete it