looking for a lead on a rear right side outer metal brake line for my A2

[70mford151a2]

Greetings, well I finally got around to replacing the rear a-arm bushings ( who knew that would be the easy part) while removing the right a- arm I broke the brake line well it was rusted and could have gone at any moment, well it was rusted pretty bad where it bends up to go into the slave cylinder. so I guess my question is do any of you fine gentlemen know where I might find a replacement line. I am not trying to be lazy for I have looked all day on the links here but I have found left rear ones just no right rear ones. what is the issue with the Right rear outer 3/16' metal lines. to be honest, the whole job was pretty tough on me and I don't want to ever do it again any help on a lead for that right rear brake line would be greatly appreciated to finally get it back on the road to explore the hills and valleys of my new home Thanks in advance, Dave
P.S. I hope I don't have to make one see I have never done that and it freaks me out

[kmam]

Parts are hard to come by here (Australia) so I just go to a local brake shop and get them made. If there is not a source in the US (and I guess there will be) that is probably the easiest solution.

[Mark]

I'd try TNJ Murray. The cloth brake line covering holds moisture, I think, so that promotes rust?

[Mr. Recovery]

The right rear metal brake line on the A-2 has a part number of 11639770-2 and a NSN of 4710-01-067-5575, the left rear is part number 11639770-1 with a NSN of 4710-01-067-5574 here's a left side on e-bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-LINE-REA ... SwnCFaMtU9 Army jeep parts has a complete kit https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-2712-m1 ... manuf.aspx

dan-2beers.jpg

[rickf]

As with any brake line you buy be sure to test fit it and make any minor corrections until the line is PERFECTLY straight into the fitting and dead center. It is rare that you will get a line that fits perfectly the first time and if you try to screw it in from any position other than perfectly straight you risk a leak. Even if it does not leak now it could in the future since it is not a good seal. I usually leave both ends loosely threaded in once I am fairly close, check it and just keep tweaking it until the hardest to get to end is about perfect. Then I will tighten the hard to get to end and work with the other end until it is perfect and tighten that one. Patience in this area will pay off in the end. If you ever need to take one of those lines off you will be real happy you spent the extra time.

[m3a1]

If you have deconstructed your brakes at that wheel to the point where you can have your wheel cylinder somewhat loose, that will certainly be of great help in getting those brake lines to line up smoothy with the wheel cylinder. As you probably already know, it's very close work and allowing the wheel cylinder some wriggle room while you put the brake line on will be of great help. Then, simply tighten down the fasteners for the wheel cylinder, snug down your line and reassemble everything else.

As with many other things on the MUTT, an absolutely horrid task usually means there is a little trick and these little tricks can make all the difference.

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Cheers,
TJ

[raymond]

Brake lines are pretty easy to make. The tools and materials are fairly inexpensive and widely sold at auto parts stores. And with a little imagination and ingenuity, you can do the radiuses and curves without a bending tool without kinking the lines. You can even do the small "S" shaped line for the front wheel cylinders. Just try to preserve the "T"s. The military "T"s have a mounting tab that replacements from the auto parts store will not have.

And unless originality is an absolute must, don't use the cloth loom over the new lines. When I replaced mine, the rust was worse in areas where the cloth loom was still intact.

You will need a double flaring tool, line cutter, brake line, and brake line nuts.

[70mford151a2]

The right rear metal brake line on the A-2 has a part number of 11639770-2 and a NSN of 4710-01-067-5575, the left rear is part number 11639770-1 with a NSN of 4710-01-067-5574 here's a left side on e-bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-LINE-REA ... SwnCFaMtU9 Army jeep parts has a complete kit https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-2712-m1 ... manuf.aspx

dan-2beers.jpg
from the time I wrote that till just now I realized it was the left side that broke "hey it was last year that I took it all apart" so I bought it thanks for the info.

[70mford151a2]

if I ever get the thing back together and need to do the brakes I am switching back to Silicone and I copied that link Mr, recovery posted about changing the fluid out, I was the one that put the civvy fluid in it. I just didn't know I guess, well I changed out the master in 2007 I think I will have to check that also but the brakes worked when I tore it apart the only reason they are in this conversation is cause I broke the line and would need to bleed them anyway. did I understand correctly that once the master is cleaned out without solvents that the silicone will just push the glycol brake fluid out of the lines and when it runs blueish purple then it's all good? it can't be that easy, nothing on this MUTT is that easy or should I just get a new master? it's only been on the mutt 15 yrs. well cared for. I guess what I'm asking Is it easier to clean it out or just get a new one? money is tight right now unlike b4. ok I'm done babbling and thanks ..all of you

[rickf]

Empty the master out completely and refill with the DOT 5 and them pump until you see the silicone at the wheel cylinders. NOW, The wheel cylinders will have to be opened up to get all the DOT 3 out of them, you cannot just bleed the old fluid out with the new, it will mix and make a mess. Why do you want to go back to DOT 5? If all you are doing is fixing a brake line then stay with DOT 3 and refill it and done. I put DOT 3 in all of my military vehicles so that way no matter where I am I have access to the correct fluid. You can't get DOT 5 everywhere. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with DOT 3.

[70mford151a2]

the main reason I want to go back to silicone is to get away from the moisture problem

[rupert's]

Greetings, well I finally got around to replacing the rear a-arm bushings ( who knew that would be the easy part) while removing the right a- arm I broke the brake line well it was rusted and could have gone at any moment, well it was rusted pretty bad where it bends up to go into the slave cylinder. so I guess my question is do any of you fine gentlemen know where I might find a replacement line. I am not trying to be lazy for I have looked all day on the links here but I have found left rear ones just no right rear ones. what is the issue with the Right rear outer 3/16' metal lines. to be honest, the whole job was pretty tough on me and I don't want to ever do it again any help on a lead for that right rear brake line would be greatly appreciated to finally get it back on the road to explore the hills and valleys of my new home Thanks in advance, Dave
P.S. I hope I don't have to make one see I have never done that and it freaks me out

I have changed 2 parts of the brake line, after seeing that they are difficult to find and it is also expensive, in the end they were made in a car parts store, in copper, it does not rust and it is also easier to mold .
All the best

[rickf]

I hope you mean nickel/copper brake line and not regular thick wall copper tubing! I have seen that done before, it will not hold up to 1,000 lbs. of pressure!

[rupert's]

I hope you mean nickel/copper brake line and not regular thick wall copper tubing! I have seen that done before, it will not hold up to 1,000 lbs. of pressure!

I don't know Rickf, I do not know exactly the composition of the metal, I took it to a spare parts store that also specializes in brakes, it is the only store that does it in my city, I trust they know the copper they should use.

[rickf]

If they do brake work they will have used the right lines. What I had seen used was done by guys in backyard garages and using refrigeration tubing.