Running a MUTT, from a newbie viewpoint

[simey]

Alrighty, box turned up today with the new carb (dated 1977). All complete as promised, including hoses, inline fuel filter, and fittings. Now that I have the inline fuel filter I can use that and the rubber hose to attach the fuel line, should prevent the carb from splitting as the old one did and will also make the engine a little more like it was originally....is this how the restoration bug starts? Does anybody have a picture of the carb, inline fuel filter and hose they could post here so that I can make mine as close as possible to the way it should be?
Thanks to G in Bangkok for the swift delivery of the part and fittings, tomorrow should be a fun day.

Simon

[rickf]

See that, You are learning very quickly! In that whole last post not one mention of a "thingy" or "whatchamacallit". I did see hose, filter and fitting. I am proud of you!
Rick

[Ralph Fuller]

Simon: Does this help?

[vtdeucedriver]

Yes ralph, those pics do help........................I think I will go cry now. Maybe if I close my eyes, the M151 fairy will come and make my engine compartment look like that one!!!!!

[moose53]

that sure is a purdy jeep there Ralph! Where's the tow bar though?

VTdeucedriver, I hate to tell you, but that was his junk jeep... the good one is really something to see!

Jim

[Ralph Fuller]

Ha, ha, ha...you crack me up, Jim

[raymond]

At either Tower Park or Aberdeen, I think we should commission a prize for the "Ralph Fuller Clean Engine Award"

[simey]

Ah ha, this is interesting. I see you have a 90 degree fitting on the carb, with an inline filter attached to that and then a flexible fuel line running back to the firewall and from there to the tank. On mine, the fuel line is a solid pipe which is routed towards the front of the engine, across, and then to the pump(?) on the left of the engine as I look at it. I guess yours is an A1 and mine is probably A2. I can't change mine to look like yours, I would cause too much damage, so I might just screw the inline filter direct to the carb, attach a small piece of the flexible pipe to that and then attach that to the solid pipe coming from the pump. That means I don't use the 90 degree fitting from the carb to the filter at all - can anyone tell me if I can attach the fuel filter directly to the carb this way or should I use the 90 degree fitting?

[Horst]

You should at any means use the brass fitting. As said before if you don't do so and screw in your fuel filter directly, you risk to split your carb. Don't ask me how I know this. In case of the A2 it is a 45° fitting. Look here http://g838.org/wiki/doku.php?id=holley to see the fitting. The picture shows a Holley carb which is not what you have but the fitting we talk about is the same in the picture.

[simey]

Worked on this today, I can use the brass fitting on the carb but then of course the metal formed pipe leading to the carb will not attach to the brass fitting...if I put the fuel filter onto the brass fitting then I have to attach the flexible pipe, however the fitting on the other end of the flexible pipe is much too large to attach to my metal fuel pipe. Hmmm. So I finally screwed the brass fitting on the end of the metal fuel line to the carb directly as it was before, but this time only gently. Took out the spark plugs, cleaned them, put them back carefully. The new carb was installed and I checked it over, all looked ok. Decided to try to turn it over, see if any fuel leaked or anything looked bad. It turned over but would not start, again hmm. Didn't seem to be any fuel getting to the carb, I must have damaged the line. Still, all looks ok, so what else could it be. A few minutes of thinking and I realised the problem, no fuel in the tank. Put in half a jerry can, it started! Not only that, but after a few minutes running it seemed to idle ok also. It revved up, so I tried taking it down the hill. That was OK, but it coughed and spluttered in second gear under strain to get up the hill, so into reverse and back into the drive. Left it ot idle for 10 minutes, tried again. This time much better, it will still cough if I floor the gas under load (the hills here are very steep) but thats to be expected, it climbs fine if I just give it enough gas to pull. So now two issues, first the screw holding the choke cable is screwed into the fitting so tightly I can't unscrew it to attach the end of the choke cable, and second after I had stopped it for about 10 mins some water leaked from the radiator. Checking I can see that it seems to be coming from the filler cap on top of the radiator, and dripping along the lip above the fan shroud before coming out, only a few drops at a time. There is a pipe coming up the side of the radiator and along the top before joining the filler cap - what is this and could it be causing the water leak I am seeing?

Simon

[Jay Mallari]

Simon,

I'm no expert but looking at your engine bay, it looks like the local mechanics have done some unusual re-routing of the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. Do you have a serial or model number of your NOS carb? Do you have a fuel return line from the carb to the tank? I'm aware that your mutt is a combination of A1 and A2 parts but the pics below (just ignore the emission control set up) should give you an idea where the lines are connected in the fuel pump and carb.

Pic 1 - Shows the line from fuel pump to carb ( note the in line fuel filter)




Pic 2 - Fuel filter and 45 degree elbow fitting, fuel return line (green)




Pic 3- Another pic of fuel return line. You can also see the overflow pipe? (don't know the correct term ) near the radiator cap






Hope this helps,

Jay

[simey]

Thanks Jay. In picture 2, I can see the metal fuel line joining the hose, from there to the inline filter and then the 45 degree fitting to the carb. On mine I'm missing most of that, my solid fuel line goes straight to the carb buti have an inline fuel filter fitted just before the fuel pump, so a similar effect. A couple questions, you have a pipe leading from just above the fuel inlet on the carb, on mine that is blocked with a screw. Is that important? And second, on top of the carb you have a brass fitting with two outlets, one goes to the top of the engine block (I have something similar) and then the top one goes somewhere else, again on mine this is blocked with a screw. What does this one do?

Thanks again for the pics, it really helps to see the completed 'jigsaw' while I am hacking away at this.

[Jay Mallari]

After looking at your engine bay pic again, I realised the fuel line supplying the carb from the fuel pump has already been removed.
I thought that's the way it was before you started work on your old carb
By the way, the mutt in the pics is not mine. It's the famous "Burtonwood Mutt". I'm thousands of miles away from my own mutt so I can't check for you to confirm the tube location.
Regarding the outlet that is plugged with a screw in your carb (are you talking about your old or new replacement carb?), I'm sure the guys with A1's can answer your question. In the A2, that is where the fuel return line is connected.
With regard to your second question,IIRC there should be a small pipe that is connected there and it goes to the distributor. It's a ventilation line that is meant to supply clean air to the distributor (study Pic 1 closely). The distributor has another line that goes to the intake manifold (in Pic 3, just above the rubber boot for the throttle linkage)

[rickf]

OK, Where to start? First, Jay, it looks like maybe you do not have the correct angle fitting on your carb. It looks to have tapered threads which would be a hardware store replacement. Second, Simon, don't worry about the plug on the return it will be fine. What you should have is a hard line coming from the pump across the front of the engine and cut off at that point with a rubber line put on it going to a filter which is screwed into the 45 degree angled fitting that should have straight threads on the other side with a nut and a gasket. If you threaded in the fitting that is on the end of the hard line then you have recut the threads in the carb inlet to match the coarse thread of the line fitting plus you have no flare in the carb for that to seat on. If it is not leaking you are very lucky and it will start eventually. You seem to be asking us for advise and then listening to your mechanic give you bad advise after what we tell you. This is not the place or time to improvise. I will try to help you but I will NOT keep trying if you are going to keep making the same errors. You have to make a choice here, you can do it the right way which is to follow the advise being given here or you can do it your way which seems to be to improvise at the drop of a hat.
Sorry for the rant but I have to deal with customers like this that always seem to know better then want to know why it costs so much to repair their mistakes.
Rick

[Ralph Fuller]

Titan LSV M151 engine for comparison