Ford M151A1 1967 Restoration.

[Cjhammarstrom]

Im about to restor my mutt from 67 and will start with my engine because it is burning alot of oil.
I bought a used "Low milage" A2 from 73, engine from Halling in Sweden.
This is the one im going to restore first and then in about some years i will start restoring the rest.

I know i have started som threads but will from now make all my question on this thread.

[Cjhammarstrom]

What do you think about this scratches ?





There was a little rust on this side of the crank. Probably i only need to remove it, but maby install new sleeves?



Noticed there where no Push Rods.



Then i discovered this hole.... Whai is it? is it suposed to be there, dont look like that because it is so uneaven, should be round at least???

[rickf]

The cylinders look good, I can still see the crosshatching. The bearings look excellent although I would replace them due to the condition of the crank. The scratches on the pump are normal wear and not bad. The crankshaft should come out and carefully polish the journals with crocus cloth. You do not want to remove any metal, just the raised rust. The hole in the lifter galley is most likely the oil return to the sump, If that is a later engine then the molds get worn and it is not a critical area so they do not worry about appearance as long as it functions as it should. Overall I would say you got a good motor, the worst part of the whole thing is the rust on the crankshaft. The absolute correct way to do it would be to have the crankshaft ground and undersize bearings fitted. I really do not think that is needed but it is your call. At any rate I would try the crocus cloth first and then decide. Be sure to flush out ALL of the oil passages with a pressure washer, it appears to have had water in the oil and was run that way. That is about the only way for water to get to those parts of the crankshaft. You might want to pull the camshaft out also and check the journals on that for rust. That main bearing you show appears to have a rust plugged oil hole.

[Cjhammarstrom]

How do I remove the oilpump
I have removed all the bolts but it won't move.

Well I'm thinking of just buy new sleeves but I must measure first and see what it says.

[rickf]

You have the bolts out for the pump, it is stuck to the gasket. Give it a tap side to side with a rubber mallet or block of wood and it will pop loose. Go to the Manuals section and download the -34 manual. You will need this for all of the info on the rebuild. You will also need the -20 for the tune up and final adjustments.

[mrdibbles]

Make sure you read the TM on re-installation of the oil pump. The oil pump gear needs to drop into place very precisely. There is one right way and like 20 wrong ways. The oil pump gear needs to align spot on with the camshaft or you will not be able to effectively set the timing once the motor is put back together.

[Cjhammarstrom]

Okej i have checked the manual now and its not as hard as i thought to renovate this engine.
Now i have a problem, I tryed to push out the piston but it wont go out because of the ring ridge.
The manual says i need a Ring ridge remover, but i dont have any such device and the ridge is not big at all.
Looks more like carbon and maby rust and dirt.

So to the question, do i need a Ring ridge remover or can i just use sandpaper to remove it?
This is actualy the first time im trying to renovate a Car engine.
Have only renovate snowmobile engine in the past.
Im also going to hone the cylinder using a Lisle cylinder hone, but the manual do not say anything about cylinder wear and measurments?
But this engine looks pretty good inside to be a "Low milage engine".

[rickf]

Why are you pulling the pistons? The crosshatching is still visible in the cylinders. When you hone a cylinder you take off metal, that is the same as wear. The honing has to be done so the same crosshatching pattern is visible. That is accomplished by a combination of hone rpm and the rate of up and down motion of the hone. If it does not need it then leave it alone. From the looks of those bearings that was an extremely low mileage motor. I cannot tell you to not to tear it down if that is what you really want to do. You can remove the carbon ring with sandpaper or a scraper. Be sure not to gouge the surface where the rings ride with either.

[Cjhammarstrom]

Well I'm pulling the pistons because I want to inspect the engine fully
I have already pulled all the pistons and found one ring that was stuck.
I also found some rust hole on the crank and must ask you what to do
I don't think there is nothing to worry about because the rust hole is where the oil runs in the sleeve.

I will put up pictures later when I have more time.

[rickf]

As I said before, go over the crank with crocus cloth and see what it looks like after that. As long as the blemishes are in the oil groove then you are alright. Be sure to clean out all of the oil passages very well. I can tell you there will be gunk in the oil passages from water. the size of the bearing is usually stamped on the back of the shell. The piston size may or may not be stamped on top of the piston. If you are careful getting that ring freed up you will not need to buy new ones which may be hard to find.

[Cjhammarstrom]

I don't know what that cloth is but I have used a very fine sand paper.
I have also cleaned the oil passages and they where very fine and clean.
The pistons are standard and I have find new piston ring set in Germany

I have cleaned the cam shaft using a 12Guage shotgun brush and now it's nice and clean.
Found a fabrication fault on the shaft I think.

[richard]

I don't know what that cloth is but I have used a very fine sand paper. (...)

From Wikipedia:
Crocus cloth is an abrasive sheet similar to sand paper or emery cloth but covered with a layer of very fine loose iron oxide particles rather than with bound grains of abrasive. "For final metal and gemstone finishing." It is available in various grades (particle sizes).

[Cjhammarstrom]

A bad hone maby ?






Fabrication fault?

[Horst]

that is how the cams are, perfectly normal...
I am not impressed by the way the crank looks, I believe that needs to be overhauled (turned and polished + oversize bearings)

[rickf]

I never had the cam out of mine but I would think that the bearing surface is chipped. All of the cams I have worked with would not look like that. Horst has had one apart and if that is how his was then I will say go for it. The crank is bad, repair or replace. The hone marks in the cylinder are normal, the finer lines have worn off and left the heavier marks. I can see the scratches from the sanding on the crank, that is why I recommend the crocus cloth. Those scratches are no good.