Master Cylinder special tricks???

[vtdeucedriver]

Ok, any you guys got any special tricks when it comes to master cylinder replacement. Mine has a heater so I hear it can be a real pain. I was hoping it was a collapsed line but it does not look to be the case so I am preparing for the worst. I looked up where its at and it seems that I am going to need my full bag of tricks.

[Horst]

You can't go wrong if you do it by the book. What helps is to remove the light switch (at least on M151s with ROPS). Another way of doing it is to remove the whole unit including both clutch and brake pedal as one. Disconnect the clutch, the brake line and then you can pull the entire set-up by removing the screws in the engine compartment. I have done it both ways and it equally sucks. Advantage if you remove the entire thing is that you can service the brass bearings for the pedals while you are at it.

[vtdeucedriver]

Thanks, taking it out as a unit sounds better. Aparently I have a A2 brake switch unit. If I had more time, I would love to switch back over to the A1.

[miljeep]

Ive been taking off the plate that has the two rubber bump stops for the pedals unbolt the master cylinder and brake lines pull it out, reverse for install about an hour. If you are using a new master the bolt holes mite be smaller I just replace the bolts with the appropriate ones some like to drill them out so what ever makes yer boat float Ive also replaced the wheel cylinder bleeders with Speed Bleeders makes a whole lot easier if ya have too do it by your self. Scott out