Brake job tips?

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raymond
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Brake job tips?

Unread post by raymond » August 21st, 2008, 9:46 pm

I put 4 new brake cylinders, brake shoes, and springs on today. I had honed out and put kits in the cylinders in 97 when i got the M151. One of the cylinders was starting to hang on one side and another had leaked on the shoes and ruined them, so I just changed all the shoes out. Tomorrow I am going to change the emergency brake band. So I guess what I'm asking is if there are any pointers, tips, things to not do or watch out for etc, for making the job easier :?:

Another question: Does anybody else here absolutely hate as much as I do, those d@mn little shoe retainer springs and the little clips that hold them to the backing plate. :evil:
Raymond


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muttguru
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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by muttguru » August 22nd, 2008, 5:14 am

Parking Bake Band - replacement.

I've never seen a new one yet that was perfectly circular. The only way to get it right is to remove the old one, place the old one and the new one together and gradually bend the new one until it matches exactly the curve of the old one (the new ones seem to have a flat spot - maybe from the way they were stored). Make a sketch of where all the adjuster bolts, springs etc go...BEFORE you start removal.

Then when the new one is installed, the handbrake lever adjuster knob has to be turned to the "fully released" position (anti-clockwise) and then the brake-band alignment screws have to be backed off fully.
Then it's best to put the back end of the vehicle on axle stands, remove the transmission housing, start the vehicle and put it in 1st gear. Make sure it is in 2WD only....and block the front wheels so it cannot roll off the stands.
Then you can watch the handbrake drum rotate and check for rubbing and binding. Keep fingers and tools away from the uncovered transmission tunnel.
If it looks ok, switch off engine and remove stands.
Put the handbrake lever to "on", tighten the band adjuster and leave the brake tightly "on" for a day or two. This usually allows the band to form to the shape of the drum and should help remove any remaining flat spots on the band.
Then finally, adjust the alignment screws and band adjuster as per TM, finishing off with the adjustment of parking handle knob. I'm assuming that you have the screw-adjust (Orschlen) parking brake lever.

ps... if you have the bellows-type rubber boot on the handbrake lever, it will NEVER be correctly adjusted ! This problem usually arises because someone with the Orschlen-type parking brake lever sees a NOS boot-kit for sale and installs it. Lots of these kits are for the early-style push-button parking brake, and that bellows looks good because it matches the bellows that fits on the 4WD shift lever....but it is the wrong one for the Orschlen screw-adjust lever.

The bellows-type will prevent the Orshlen lever from fully releasing. Before you know it, you'll burn out the handbrake band and cook the seal behind the handbrake drum with the transferred heat from the friction.
Kind regards....
Ken

Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Thanks!

Contact address - - muttguru@aol.com

Note for 2023..... Ken..."Less Stress - More Exercise!"

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raymond
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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by raymond » August 22nd, 2008, 4:20 pm

Thanks for the tips Ken. :D I printed them out. I was going to tackle the parking brake, but my cousin couldn't help me today. I did get the service brakes bled out and they seem to be functioning well. I have the Orschlen hand brake with it's correct rubber weather seal.


Many Thanks

P.S. Noone answered my question. Does anybody hate those little springs and clips that hold the brake shoes in place as much as me. I am too cheap to buy a brake tool that would make removing them easy. Instead I use a rather long small diameter carriage bolt with the threaded section cut off to remove the springs. I also made my own brake spoon for adjusting the brakes.
Raymond


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rickf
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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by rickf » August 22nd, 2008, 9:01 pm

I sort of like those springs! Take the springs off, better yet, put them on a 70's-80's Ford or Dodge rear Dana 60 or the fun setup on a GM Corporate 14 bolt. I can think of a few other winners but those stand out. I use a long thin screwdriver and gently push and turn the spring and it comes right off with no problem. Same with putting it on.
Rick
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by k8icu » August 22nd, 2008, 10:28 pm

I hated those things...went and got a tool to remove them and put them back on. I remember on my A2 I changed them to a more modern style and had to put a washer on the back of the pin to keep it from falling out.

A break spring removal tool makes getting the springs on and off a lot easier.
There is one nut on a M151 that is very difficult to remove.....

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raymond
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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by raymond » August 26th, 2008, 3:18 pm

Ken

Got the hand brake band installed today. Mine was round and went on with no real problem. No real problem getting it aligned. I didn't even hardly bleed any, which is rare that I do a job on my M151 without somehow ending up a blood donor :!: :lol: :roll:
Raymond


"On the day when crime puts on the apparel of innocence, through a curious reversal peculiar to our age, it is innocence that is called on to justify itself." Albert Camus

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Re: Brake job tips?

Unread post by moose53 » August 26th, 2008, 4:41 pm

raymond wrote:Ken

Got the hand brake band installed today. Mine was round and went on with no real problem. No real problem getting it aligned. I didn't even hardly bleed any, which is rare that I do a job on my M151 without somehow ending up a blood donor :!: :lol: :roll:
I wondered what all them little brown spots were....

Jim
Zigzag50, Northeast51, KC2QDZ
MVPA # 30032 G838.org

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1971 G838-M151A2 1966 G857-M416
1968 G748-M101A1 1976 G748-M116A1
1990 MEP-701A

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Real jeeps have horizontal grille slots

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