knocking in rear end?

[JasonB]

so now the mutt is up and running, wheel bearings re torqued, suspension bolts checked and tightened. I have a strange bang/knock like someone banging a hollow pipe while driving over "rough" terrain. Its not all of the time only when putting torque on the suspension/body.
I jacked up the back end and checked the lash of the rear diff/transfer but it doesn't seem like a lot of free play. I'm not sure how much is to much to be honest.
Did notice that the under carriage is dirty/muddy as all get out and there is old mud sitting in the cups for the coils.
Maybe a rusted metal on metal contact and its a spring shifting? or a bushing that looks good for the shock but is hollow letting the shock slide back and forth??

[Mr. Recovery]

Check the bushings in the rear swing arms and the shocks.

[JasonB]

whats the easiest way to drop them out?
im thinking jack up the whole backend, put a jack under the swingarm and take the pressure off of the lower shock bolt and swingarm then let the jack back down? holding the spring so it wont fall out?
anyone know where I can get just the bushings for the shocks?

[JasonB]

Check the bushings in the rear swing arms and the shocks.

well went to check the bushings today and there "good" but the shocks are blown pretty sure that your not suppose to be able to collapse the shock with about 4 lbs of pressure. Also shouldn't the shock decompress by its self or is this to old of a shock to have a spring in it??

[rickf]

None of the shocks have springs in them but newer gas shocks have gas pressure in them that pushes them back up. You are correct, these are good old fashioned shocks, no gas or springs.

[muttguru]

well went to check the bushings today and there "good" but the shocks are blown pretty sure that your not suppose to be able to collapse the shock with about 4 lbs of pressure.

Jason,
your shocks may be fine. The shocks will compress easily.....it's the rebound action that you need to check.
Here's how to do a quick test.
1. Remove a rear shock.
2. Slide a 12" metal bar through the lower bushing of the shock and a similar bar through the upper bushing.
3. Stand on the lower bar, one foot either side of the bushing.
4. Grab hold of the upper bar with both hands.
5. Push down to compress the shock. It should go down smooth and easy. If it grinds or binds, there's something wrong with it.
6. Now with your feet still in place on the lower bar, attempt to pull upwards on the upper bar. It should take some real effort. If you can expand the shock easily, it's done for. Get new ones. If it takes a good effort to expand, it is still good.
7. Repeat the test on the other shock. If you have to use about the same amount of exertion to expand both shocks, they're both good.

Unfortunately there's nothing in the TM that states exactly how much force is within specs.
Ken

[rickf]

Ken, The shocks should have equal resistance both up and down unless they are some special build and I am pretty sure they are not.

[JasonB]

Ken
Thanks for the input, one shock is blown (not leaking oil) but very little effort to move plunger in and out, the other has a "ding" in the chamber and will not let the piston's disc go past and is locked when it gets caught on that spot.

ordering new ones for the most part because the shocks that are on it now are probably from manufacturing and have a lot of wear and tear on them. Just waiting for a call back from Red River to decide if I am going to order from them or from another supplier (which ever is cheapest).

[eflexter]

Beware, some of the companies with the low price have a super high shipping and handling charge!! They get you one way or the other.

[halftracknut]

I called the company on the shock and NO Help....I found a good used one.....good luck....and if you find one that fits ...Please Please post the maker and part number.....

[muttguru]

Ken, The shocks should have equal resistance both up and down unless they are some special build and I am pretty sure they are not.

Rick, so I've been wrong all this time, eh. I must have been sold nothing but faulty shocks for years...........

Ken

[rickf]

I called the company on the shock and NO Help....I found a good used one.....good luck....and if you find one that fits ...Please Please post the maker and part number.....

Is this for A1 or A2?
Did they become rare again? I know the A2 shocks were impossible to find for the longest time and then all of a sudden the market was flooded with them. Never knew the A1 shocks to be hard to find unless that has just started.

[rickf]

Ken, The shocks should have equal resistance both up and down unless they are some special build and I am pretty sure they are not.

Rick, so I've been wrong all this time, eh. I must have been sold nothing but faulty shocks for years...........

Ken

Well Ken, I don't know what to tell you. All shocks have high resistance when compressing since that is the most violent force when driving. That is when you hit something or when you go into a dip you have the inertia of the whole vehicle to slow. On the rebound all you have is the unsprung weight to control. In racing they use what we used to call 80-20 or 90-10 shocks, where they had 90% force in compression and only 10% on extension. The reason for this was for use on the front of a vehicle to get the front up in the air quickly so as to transfer all the weight to the rear tires.

Newer shocks have multistage valving that adjust to the velocity of movement and adds resistance as needed.

Oh, And those shocks you have been buying? Were they made by Lucas? the same people that make the fantastic English electrical systems?

[raymond]

Lucas shocks

[halftracknut]

I don't think the shocks will be the fix....I vote trailing arm bushings or brackets or tail pipe or rear hitch...these things were made to rattle and knock