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Gas Fired Heater Mod

PostPosted: December 17th, 2017, 6:57 pm
by Surveyor
Helping my buddy Paracord by placing these photos up. Here is his modification for placing his gas fired heater outside and on the fender of his a2. He has lots of experience with m38's for those that see the connection. It allows him to use the gas one for quicker heat and then switching over to the water heater so he isn't roasting. Made to be easily taken off during the summer with a cover plate for windshield frame to cover the intake hole . Exhaust fumes routed as shown.

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Re: Gas Fired Heater Mod

PostPosted: December 17th, 2017, 7:23 pm
by Mark
Is this a home-made heater/adapted from another vehicle? Or is this a factory made application?

Re: Gas Fired Heater Mod

PostPosted: December 17th, 2017, 7:28 pm
by Surveyor
I believe he used the standard gas fired unit either from an m38 or the one that is normally mounted between the two front seats on an m151 and moved it as shown by fabricating the dampener, duct, exhaust, gas lines, etc. I'm sure he'll explain the how and why once he has a chance to post.

Re: Gas Fired Heater Mod

PostPosted: December 18th, 2017, 12:59 am
by paracord
Thanks for posting Surveyor. Merry Christmas to all old and new members. It is a M151 NOS heater unit I found for $85.00. Took a M-38 gasoline heater windshield cover plate and cut it down and made a box and moved the 4" ring to the side for the 90, to fit on windshield so the hood would open with out hitting. Took a 90 degree elbow with a butterfly valve from a 5- ton, cut the mounting ring off of it , used a high heat silicone 4" turbo tube to connect the two. Cut a 4" hole through the windshield frame, could have been 3" on inside. Cut the M151A2 heater kit damper down and modified it to the box you see mounted on the inside. Used a 5-ton twist lock heater control cable for the butterfly valve in the 90 to cut outside cold air off when using the hot water heater. Remounted the damper control cable as you see it, to close a damper in the inner windshield box. Bought a $13.00 24 volt normally closed solenoid valve to shut fuel off to the heater so it could cool and re purge itself. Teed it off from the fuel pump. Hooked it up to the electric fuel pump connection on the heater unit. The exhaust ,I first used a copper street L . I was getting a few fumes through through fresh air intake for hot water heater at a stop sign. Then I cut up 151 header pipe and extension pipe for the exhaust with a hanger mounted to the idler arm. The way I mounted the heater, I do a reverse air flow from the unit into the existing duct work and don't run all the junk as per the manual. Can use the hot water heater independent of the gas unit. I covered the metal expanded steel heater guard with metal and moved it forward of the intake fan 3" and left about a 1/4" gap at the bottom for plenty off air for the heater. No rain touches the electrical parts of the unit and it doesn't suck in water so that works fine. Garden hose ,and 45 MPH in the rain tested. I cut flat stock for braces for under the fender, for backing plates .Heat sure is nice on a 10 degree morning. Total cost of install, less than $250.00 plus or minus a few dollars, that's minus shipping . Believe me the wife could give you the exact amount. I'll never get out of the dog house . Sure beats the $2700.00 I've seen heater kits some are asking for. I did have the cover plate ,the nuts and bolts, scrap steel and the exhaust. Heater ,control box, control box cable ,guard ,elbow , damper and control cables were NOS.