issolating differential

feel the need to change or modify your mutt? This is the place to discuss it.

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rickf
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Re: issolating differential

Unread post by rickf » September 16th, 2010, 3:32 pm

ohiomgman wrote:
199th mp wrote:ohio mg man--do you think i could achieve a similar improvement with lexan, or perhaps the heavy rubber setting blocks we use in the commercial glazing industry? the blocks come in a variety of thicknesses, and are 1" X 3 " in length. they are very difficult to compress, as they are designed to support large glass units that weigh in excess of 400 lbs.

Lexan would seem a bit "stiff" for that. A polymer like polyethelene seems to work out just fine. Rubber seems like it compresses too much. I dunno. You can find conveyer belting with nylon cording in it for sale. It is a bitch to cut. Thick rubber is a bitch to cut no matter what. I liked the Delrin because it had SOME give and I could mill the holes on my Bridgeport and cut them to size with a bandsaw. It was not that expensive to buy..look for a place that has something in "small scraps."
Than all you need is a Bridgeport! :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink:

Rick
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1984 M1008
1967 M416
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ppauto
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Re: issolating differential

Unread post by ppauto » September 16th, 2010, 7:53 pm

I found some 1/16" thick nylon flat washers (1 1/4" diameter) in the Lowe's specialty fasteners section. I installed my rear diff. with those. I used 3 nylon washers at each mounting point, between the diff. and mount , above the mount and below the diff. with steel flat washers at the outer ends. we'll see how that works.

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Re: issolating differential

Unread post by rickf » September 17th, 2010, 7:48 am

Keep in mind that those washers are going to slide on each other and you will get side to side motion. I would keep a very close watch on it to make sure you are not egging out the holes in the diff or breaking the mount from the bolt rocking.

Rick
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

ohiomgman
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Re: issolating differential

Unread post by ohiomgman » September 22nd, 2010, 7:14 pm

rickf wrote:
ohiomgman wrote:
199th mp wrote:ohio mg man--do you think i could achieve a similar improvement with lexan, or perhaps the heavy rubber setting blocks we use in the commercial glazing industry? the blocks come in a variety of thicknesses, and are 1" X 3 " in length. they are very difficult to compress, as they are designed to support large glass units that weigh in excess of 400 lbs.

Lexan would seem a bit "stiff" for that. A polymer like polyethelene seems to work out just fine. Rubber seems like it compresses too much. I dunno. You can find conveyer belting with nylon cording in it for sale. It is a bitch to cut. Thick rubber is a bitch to cut no matter what. I liked the Delrin because it had SOME give and I could mill the holes on my Bridgeport and cut them to size with a bandsaw. It was not that expensive to buy..look for a place that has something in "small scraps."
Than all you need is a Bridgeport! :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink:

Rick

A drill press would work fine. I just don't have any BIG drill bits. I do have lots of end mills. :)
NRA Life Member. Class 7 FFL/ SOT
1964, M151-A1
1950, US M-38 Jeep. Serial # 36.
1952,US M-38 Jeep
1965, Willys M-274 Mule
1945, CCKW, closed cab, 353
416 Trailer
M100 Trailer
US Army 5 year RA. RSVN 1968-1970

ohiomgman
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Re: issolating differential

Unread post by ohiomgman » September 22nd, 2010, 7:17 pm

rickf wrote:Keep in mind that those washers are going to slide on each other and you will get side to side motion. I would keep a very close watch on it to make sure you are not egging out the holes in the diff or breaking the mount from the bolt rocking.

Rick

BINGO! Seems a better idea to make your "isolaters" from one piece of... something because of THAT. You will need longer bolts.
NRA Life Member. Class 7 FFL/ SOT
1964, M151-A1
1950, US M-38 Jeep. Serial # 36.
1952,US M-38 Jeep
1965, Willys M-274 Mule
1945, CCKW, closed cab, 353
416 Trailer
M100 Trailer
US Army 5 year RA. RSVN 1968-1970

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