A proper rebuild

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A proper rebuild

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A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 3rd, 2010, 1:12 pm

Hi Guys,

The mutt been sitting for over a month, rather than going for short and quick makeover with the diesel transformation, i decided i'll get it in real good shape slow and steady, replacing everything which needs to be replacing, ending up with a nice, clean and straight mutt and hoping to have it ready for paint by early summer.

2 Guys in the middle of the night, 4 hours and a swollen hand and this is what we came up with.. Found that sway problem too
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I think i have found something which i'm not sure is a problem or not... maybe you guys can fill me up..
The rails to me seem to be out of line, i think this vehicle has been involved in a frontal accident, but then i'm not sure.
Also how do i get the fenders straight and not on an angle?
Image
Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sarmadq » March 3rd, 2010, 9:26 pm

Boy o boy! Somebody get that rig & tools away from you, wonder what's next in store after this rebuild :o

As for your rails & fender, you'll need a hydraulic pull to straighten out stuff, I assume the rail getting straight will have an affect on other areas too. Would recommend you have it done from a pro, as they know how much to pull and all. Good luck

As for separating the front suspension, I don't think that was a good idea, but then others more experienced may comment on that.
Sam
1983 M151A2 - M825
.....You gotta know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby rickf » March 4th, 2010, 7:13 am

I have to agree with Sam on this one. You will need hydraulic pulling equipment and the proper measuring tools to get the rails straight. As far as the front suspension, it is only 6 bolts, a tie rod, driveshaft and a brake line so it is no big deal. That will need to be reattached before the straightening begins though.

Rick
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1984 M1008
1967 M416
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 5th, 2010, 5:26 pm

Sam,
I agree i would'nt be able to a perfect job, but still one cannot learn the easy, and i'm very keen on becoming less dependent on somebody else fixing the stuff for me.

Rick,
I left the rails alone for the time being till i can find a hydraulic jack.


Todays Update:

My Hydraulic Jack :lol:
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Best i can do with the flare:
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Fender Straightened out:
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Front suspension in:
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Bushings for the suspension bolts for a better and smoother drive:
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Bushings for the diff:
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Approximately 2-3 inches of body lift.
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105 Racks Cut Out, Rear Seat Welded in:
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The days hard work:
Image
Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby rickf » March 5th, 2010, 8:20 pm

I will say one thing, you are persistent if nothing else! :roll: :lol: Looking at those frame rails in the latest pictures I would not worry about them. I do see problems with the suspension/bushing lift deal though. First and foremost is the fact that the entire front assembly will be moving side to side on those bushings and the bolts will egg out the holes first and then break off! All this will not take very many miles at all. Also you will have to reposition the idler arm even if you go with solid bushings. Your steering geometry is going to be off in several places. What were you planning to do in the rear? It's your vehicle but...............


Rick
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1984 M1008
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12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby Francis Marion » March 5th, 2010, 9:28 pm

Nice jack stand :D It reminds me of a time in Afghanistan. We had a tire go flat on a particularly rock road and stopped to fix it. Pulled the jack an tire you and got to work. Soon another car got a flat in the same area. The Afghans piled rocks under the car, dug the dirt out from under the tire, replaced it, kicked the rocks out and were moving again before we were. :?
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby Horst » March 5th, 2010, 11:38 pm

you don't really want to drive it with those tiny bolts installed?? Put it back together the way it was would be my strong suggestion (didn't the post say "proper rebuild"?)
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS and M416
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sarmadq » March 6th, 2010, 5:27 am

Okay ............... but what made you think the bushings are going to give you a better and smoother ride ? The weight of the engine alone is going to press and cut half of them.
The other question is, WHY the bushings ? Are you trying to lift the body so that the engine sits in well & you dont have to put a scoop in the hood ? I suggest you get the oil sump fabricated on the 2C. It'll sit low.

Rick's right, 2-3 inch will surely play havoc with your streering geometrics.
Sam
1983 M151A2 - M825
.....You gotta know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away, Know when to Run !
You don't count your money, sitting at the table
There'll be time enough for counting
When the deal is Done !......
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby Cobra5 » March 6th, 2010, 8:39 am

Whose the big guy in the background and what part of your house is now missing bricks? :lol:
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 6th, 2010, 8:59 am

rickf wrote:I will say one thing, you are persistent if nothing else! :roll: :lol: Looking at those frame rails in the latest pictures I would not worry about them. I do see problems with the suspension/bushing lift deal though. First and foremost is the fact that the entire front assembly will be moving side to side on those bushings and the bolts will egg out the holes first and then break off! All this will not take very many miles at all. Also you will have to reposition the idler arm even if you go with solid bushings. Your steering geometry is going to be off in several places. What were you planning to do in the rear? It's your vehicle but...............


Rick


My persistence in known in the family.. :mrgreen:
At first i didn't see the sideways problem, but later on realized that. So i got bushes with steel sleeves in them, that way there is no sideways, back or front movement, only up and down... but being on the safe side i'll remove them anyway....i'll take your word on it since you have experience amounting more than before i was born..i mean that as a compliment.

For the rear, no major plans, just simple overhaul and greasing of parts. The rear is impossible to lift, they only way i see it is to build custom longer brackets for the trailing arms with longer springs and shocks, but i don't think the local steel is good enough to take the pounding, and we all know how infamous the rear of an M151 is. First i thought of mounting bushes on the inside of the brackets but there was no direct load, only side load. which would make the trailing arms swing, and result in real big vibrations not a good idea, plus the arms themselves have bushes, so there is no need i guess. Just the diff.

P.S The idler arm was out of place but loosened it up it fit just about right and fitted it back.
Last edited by sherwan_88 on March 6th, 2010, 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 6th, 2010, 9:09 am

Cobra5 wrote:Whose the big guy in the background and what part of your house is now missing bricks? :lol:


Those bricks came out of my grandmothers backyard...i guess she'll not be happy when she finds out... :D
The big guy is the driver at the factory, run errands and does various stuff, including helping with the M151 and other of my looney ideas till the middle of the night without even ever wanting too. :mrgreen:...
Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 6th, 2010, 9:10 am

sarmadq wrote:Okay ............... but what made you think the bushings are going to give you a better and smoother ride ? The weight of the engine alone is going to press and cut half of them.
The other question is, WHY the bushings ? Are you trying to lift the body so that the engine sits in well & you dont have to put a scoop in the hood ? I suggest you get the oil sump fabricated on the 2C. It'll sit low.

Rick's right, 2-3 inch will surely play havoc with your streering geometrics.


Sam,
A diesel is vulgar in vibrations compared to a gasoline engine, the bushes absorb the vibrations, the lift was unintentional, it got raised when the bushes were put in. The 2C already fits perfectly with the customized sump which i already had one made, the engine fits in neat with out the scoop with an inch of clearance. I had all that done before this.
Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Disc Brakes

Postby sherwan_88 » March 6th, 2010, 9:14 am

Got a super deal from a scrap yard.... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :D :D :P :P
$50 :twisted:
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1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby sherwan_88 » March 17th, 2010, 6:12 am

Discs in.
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Sherwan

1982 M825 (Former)
Muttless at the moment. :(
The Last Of Its Kind. A Ton Of American Steel.
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Re: A proper rebuild

Postby baios » March 17th, 2010, 7:15 am

:o Excellent modification!!!!!I m curius with the diesel set up!!!!!Let us know the final result!!!!!
DO NOT GIVE UP!!!
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