Worth while mods?

feel the need to change or modify your mutt? This is the place to discuss it.

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MUTT Vet
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Worth while mods?

Unread post by MUTT Vet » August 28th, 2008, 8:58 am

I have posted this on G503 but i was just recently informed of this site (thanks RickF) so I will post it here too in hopes of a better response.

have an old train air horn. As we all know, the stock M151A2 horn is pretty weak.

Would it be viable to change out the stock horn with an adjustable train horn?

Also, I am wanting to add some hidden 12 volt power points (cigarette lighter) and 115VAC plugs. I want to keep the mutt as a 24v system but i would like to be able to convert the 24v to 12v for the power points. I need some kind of converter or inverter to take the 24v and change it to 115vac.

I'm also trying to figure out a way to be able to change the jumper cable port on the right side from 24v to 12v with a switch so i can jump mutts and civilian vehicles.

I also bought a clinometer and i'm thinking on installing it in my mutt:

Image

I don't know if i should fabricate a bracket and cut a hole in the panel on the passenger side (this will probably make it impossible to put in a heater kit) or if i should take apart the clinometer and mount the three individual devices in more out of the way locations.

I know these proposed mods might make some of you cringe but i'm trying to keep the outside as traditional looking as possible by hiding these proposed mods; any suggestions?
Eric
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kb0jyl
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Re: Worth while mods?

Unread post by kb0jyl » August 28th, 2008, 9:14 am

You can do what I did, put an ammo can between the seats, make a water tight connection to your ground side battery. Then you can mount your inverter, stereo, ciggerette plug, etc inisde and keep it nice and dry. It will also not damage the looks of your mutt, and can be unplugged and removed for shows and or other events. There are also military 24 volt to 110 volt adapters that show up on e-pay every now and then that work rather well.

Any 12 volt accessories can be powered by the ground side battery. If you use the positive side battery and touch the 12 volt item to the body, you will get 24 volts and a lot of smoke real fast.

As for the inclinemeter, you probably really don't need it.

My 2 1/2 cents worth for the morning.
Steve
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Spike
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Re: Worth while mods?

Unread post by Spike » August 28th, 2008, 11:03 am

For the incline-meter you could rig some type of magnetic mount that wouldn't require altering any of the tub or body parts. Taking a sawzall to the dash is not recommended. Guys have done that to install radios and "stuff" it's hard to undo.The ammo can is a great idea.
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Mr. Recovery
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Re: Worth while mods?

Unread post by Mr. Recovery » August 28th, 2008, 9:43 pm

[quote="kb0jyl"]
(Any 12 volt accessories can be powered by the ground side battery. If you use the positive side battery and touch the 12 volt item to the body, you will get 24 volts and a lot of smoke real fast.)

inside every electronic device there is "SMOKE", it takes a real Genius to set it FREE ! :roll: :lol:
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Spike
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Re: Worth while mods?

Unread post by Spike » August 31st, 2008, 12:38 pm

Mr. Recovery wrote: inside every electronic device there is "SMOKE", it takes a real Genius to set it FREE ! :roll: :lol:
Oh, yeah! The Mensa Society includes this in all their tests. I really like the smell that comes with the smoke. That lingers around the shop for weeks to remind you of just how smart you are. I was using a 12-volt timing light, just like I had several times before, and I had an Einstein-moment. It got VERY bright for about 10-seconds. No smoke though ~ dang it. I must done something wrong.
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Re: Worth while mods?

Unread post by TrueXena » September 3rd, 2008, 11:49 am

Personally, I wouldn't cut into the dash to place your meters and such. However, if that's what floats your boat, then do what you want. I like the idea of the magnet attaching method for something like that. That why when/if you ever decide to sell the MUTT you wont have a bunch of stuff to 'fix' to get your asking price.

The ammo box between the seats is what I'm doing right now for a 'glove box'. Pretty much anything that I don't want rattling around in the floorboards gets stuffed into it. I don't have it bolted down, or welded to the floor, nor will that happen. Right now, there is just a bit of 'rubberize' paint sprayed onto the bottom of the ammo can to minimize sliding. I have a guy, who is going to spot weld a couple of tie-down rods to the outside of the can (keeping it water tight), and I've got some straps that will go from the tie-downs to the seat frames on each side. This will eliminate all sliding.

Depending on what amps you'll need, will determine the price you'll be forced to pay for an inverter/converter. I've looked at some from NAPA, and the lowest cost is about $75 bucks, which also gives you the lowest amps. The more the amps, the more you'll pay. You'll def need one to use some 12v power points and to run 12v radios and such. I'm eventually gonna have to bite the bullet and get me one for the radio set up I plan. The inverter/converter will be placed in the ammo can between the seats, when it's all said and done.
Later dayz,
TrueXena
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