M416/614M Project

[Rainman]

Hey all,

Last week I towed home a 1967 Stevens M416 trailer. The restoration has begun, and I hope to have it road ready for the Mid-Ohio meet. I spotted it in a pasture while heading to visit family in Southern Ohio. As you see in the pictures, it's in 3 color camo, has all data plates, and is marked "3 BDE and what looks to be 1FT36 or 1E136, but is also marked HQ 36 on the front corner. Also marked 06G76768 on the tub front and on the wiring cover.

Looking at the data plate the top is stamped M416, but printed on the plate is 614M. I've seen these before, and read about a few too but am not sure why they marked em this way. The leaf springs are being rebuilt this afternoon, and it goes to the blaster and paint shop this evening. Paint will be Gillespie 24087 with white stencils, even if I decide to paint it again later in 383 to match my A2.

I am in need of a break lever, as the one on it has the adjuster snapped off, and though I have a similar for spare parts, I can't seem to see how to get the snapped adjuster arm out of the handle and housing. No luck locating one so far, so if anyone has one for sale, it's time to dig it out cause I;'m in the market for one. Here's the first pictures before the disassembly began. More pictures to follow...




Rainman

[cstaup]

Congrats Ray, looks pretty straight. Have fun.

Chris

[Rainman]

Hey Chris,
Just returned from the spring shop, without the trailer. Hard to believe I told the guy this was a "restoration' and not just a regular spring job, and they cut off all my original hardware instead of saving the U bolts, and added center bands with a big nickel plated bolts riding on top of the springs, with the ends of the bolts pointing at the tires! WTH? They're redoing them now, but fear this may come down to a price discussion when I go pick it up. What ever happened to quality craftsmanship? Right now I'm not having much fun, but thanks for the thought, I'm sure after the restoration is complete, I'll be smilin.

Rainman

[k8icu]

Are you going to keep the original tail lights or upgrade them to the composit lights? The reason I ask is that composit lights don't fit very well. You have to slam them up againts the body. But there are some conversion brakets that extend them out about 3/4 of an inch to put the lights in a good position. I think it also raises the lights up slightly. I often thought that you could make your own.

Let me know if you need any help I redid a 416 whith my A2 I had. Then I sold the A2 with the trailer and always kicked myself for not keeping the trailer, but at the time I didn't have room to keep it out of the weather.

[Rainman]

Hey Joe,

I had the springs done today, and when I went to pick it up, the estimate had nearly tripled! I was quoted $60 plus parts, and I assumed no parts would be needed other than new bands. Not so, I am now aware. They re-worked the complaint I had, replaced 3 broken leafs, and torched my U bolts, to cause the need for them to be replaced. Bottom line was $153. I was more than a little stunned and expressed that to the owner, who promptly dropped the price to labor alone $63. Talk about having the tables turned in a situation, I went from ticked off, to feeling guilty for the shop! They deserved something for their materials, and the owner just said, "it's already taken care of". Think I'm sending a few dozen donuts to them in the morning.

Let me say, I have an M151 in progress, and an M416 restoration is a little slice of heaven in comparison. Doing a little tub straightening and contacting the blasting and painting out, is nearly painless. I'm not done yet, but so far, it's a smooth sail. When I get it back and repack the bearings, it's good to go for another 40 years.

Rainman

[TrueXena]

Then I'll just send you my M416 to restore when we get around to it. You seem to be happy doing it.

[rickf]

That same job here in Jersey would have been 500.00 at least and you would never get them to drop more than maybe 50.00 for their screwup! I would buy them lunch on Monday! You may need them again.
Rick

[Rainman]

Yeah, I slept in and never sent the donuts, so a few pizzas on Monday should do the trick. I have the tub set back on the frame now with the fenders and brackets sitting in there., and it's off to the blaster on Monday if at all possible. I seem to have this problem that eats up lots of time, it's called work, but at least my priorities are correct and that takes a back seat to hunting, fishing, and M151s. My old motto was " I work 24/7, 24 hours a week, 7 months a year. Now if I can just retire by age 55, I'm a happy guy.

As for becoming a trailer restoration contractor, that's just a matter of spending other peoples money. If I can get it done cheaper and help you out, I'm there for you TX. So far I think I'm doing alright on expenses, but the bottom line has not been reached, and there's no pencil sharpener in sight. I own a socket set and a pair of channel locks, everything else I try to get someone else to do. Heck, it took me an hour to remove the 4 reflectors, and I had read about lead washers on trailers, but had never run into one before, now I've touched and ruined 8 of them. I have no need or desire to make this trailer waterproof and floatable, so drain plug replacement is not a priority. I do need that brake handle assembly if anyone locates one for sale.

There is a little patch repair work to cover a few bare spots on the wire harness, but most of those were on the old lights, that I'll replace with the new Hummer style composites. As for the brackets, a few washers should space me enough to clear the side of the trailer. The harness needed to be removed from the frame by grinding the heads off the screws that held the wire clamps. A trip to Home Depot, and $40 worth of grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers should re-assemble what I took apart. Evaluation of the primed trailer bed will dictate the next step for it, like POR15 or Rhinoliner type non-skid material to cover most of the pits and I assume some pinholes.

Rainman

[TrueXena]

It sounds like a lot of fun is being had by other people. LOL (re: they be doing most of the work)

I don't have a spare break leaver. But then if I think about it, I think that needs to be replaced on ours too.

At least you have someplace to get the blasting done. I still haven't found a place around here that has any 'sand blasting' services for large items. Small items can be done on a table one that the next door neighbor says we can borrow. But for the tub and other large items, we are still in search of someone who will actually do it, and hopefully wont charge an arm and a leg to do so.

Maybe when we get around to it you can give us the name and number of your guy.

[Rainman]

Hey TX,

Will do. The homework I've done in my area shows that $100 an hour is the going rate. Even being a friend of a friend won't drop my prices, but have been offered "his best guy" to do the work. None of those shops are willing to do a painting though, due to the high demand for powder coat services, I guess their bread and butter work. I have opted for the "metalizing" shop that will blast, prime, and a week or so later when I'm ready, shoot my own OD paint on it for me. Metalizing was described to me as being like spray painting with metals like zinc, lead, bronze, etc. Not what I'm having done, but thats what they do most of the time. More on this project as it progresses...

Rainman

[Ralph Fuller]

Rainman: I opted for Gama Goat tail light lens on both Jeep and trailer. It is a simple matter of six screws and they fit without modification. You can wire the black out portion of the light to either be an additional running or brake light. Total time for installation is 15 minutes for both lens with a power screwdriver.

[Rainman]

Hey Ralph,

I do have a set of those M561 lens covers I picked up to use on the 64 Kaiser now that you mention it. One of the original light housings have 3 screws broken off in holes, but I guess I do have another set of those as well. That's a part of this hobby I haven't been able to get under control yet, the buying and collecting of spare parts. Considering I'm going with original 24087 paint, I feel your right, and I should go with the old style housings. Eventually when I finish the 64 Kaiser, also in 24087 paint, I'll have the matching trailer for it, unless I get impatient and shoot 383 on top of the trailer to match the A2 that it will be towed with for the next year or two. Now I'll need another set of M561 lens covers for the Kaiser, and the cycle starts over again, I can buy more parts!

Has anyone seen these new composite Hummer lights? They have removable red lenses without the need to replace the whole lens cover. They look about the same with the exception of 2 additional screws to secure the bottom of the red plastic lens. Maybe I'll save them for another project, but till then, they can stay on a shelf in the parts room. Thanks for the help Ralph, and to all other suggestions and help offered. Just hope I'm still smilin when it's all done.

Rainman

[halftracknut]

Rainman, I have several of the round light bodies if you need them ,I think I can come up with 2 good ones....HTN...

[Rainman]

Thanks HTN,

Today is a real busy day, but I'll dig around when I have time to see what I have "waiting for a mission". Trying to get this trailer dropped of, and heading to Youngstown for a sales call. If the rain holds off, there's a car show tonight for the A2, but I'll be happy if I can get most of it in. Oh yeah, and I need to get CZ's dome lights in the mail and fill out the customs form. Another day in the life...

Rainman

[k8icu]

What fit really nice on the 416 with out modifing the bracket is the new LED composite tail lights. They are about the thickness of the lens cover on the traditional composite lights. They are supper bright and you can keep your black out lighting if you wish. The are ubercool!
And they bolt right up and are Mill Standard... Time to install....about 10 mins.