WTB-Brake shoes

[Redlight]

I am look for a full set (Left and right) of brake shoes for the rear axle,before iI go to a vendor listed on the resource list i want to see if any one has a new set for sale. During my last outing, the left rear would lock up and the right did nothing. I am pretty sure I have a leaking wheel cylinder. I have spare cylinders but no shoes.
PM me at any time as i check the site at least 4 times a day.
Thank you
Bruce
the guy with the M! in the attic.

[rickf]

Bruce, The first thing to be sure of is that you have 3/4" wheel cylinders on both sides in the rear. So check the new ones and make sure they are the right ones. Can't help you with the shoes.Army Jeep Parts or Frontline surplus are the two places closest to you I would suggest if you want to go that route.

[Hambone]

Frontline always had the best brake shoe deal, shoes and hardware for both axles plus e-brake band for $69.00

Here is their website
http://www.flmv.net/FLMV-M151.htm

[Redlight]

Thank you for the information.

[lpcoating]

Wasn't there a version at one time that was tack welded and there were issues so they changed them to a full weld bead? I have both and the reason I bring it up is I'm pretty sure I purchased the set that isn't full weld from the e-bayer listed by Hambone.

Guy

The more I think about this I don't think I purchased mine from this guy. So I'm not sure if these are the full weld. I remember seeing that same picture. So the above question still stands about the tack weld and full length weld.

Guy

[lpcoating]

I just did the wheel cylinders on mine. Used Napa part number 16535 (3/4" bore) for the rear and 16534 (1" bore) for the front. If you replace these, the bleeder on the replacement is a tad shorter than the original and a PIA to get a wrench on. I used the original bleeders.

Guy

[rickf]

Good to know. If you have screwed up bleeders on your old ones you can usually buy just the bleeders in different lengths also.

[lpcoating]

When I replaced wheel cylinders and brakes on mine got tired to using hand operated vacuum pump to bleed as I wanted to get new fluid in the system. Mine has been converted to Dot 3 and it was looking a little funky. Hooked up the vacuum pump and job became real easy!

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Guy

[rickf]

You do realize you will pull air oast the seals real fast that way? When vacuum bleeding you have to go real slow since pulling a vacuum on those cups is actually working in the opposite direction they are designed to seal in and they will bypass air very easily. You need to keep the vacuum below 4-5".

[lpcoating]

Didn't have any issues at all. It's my brothers unit and fortunately for me he's not an idiot.

Guy

[rickf]

I just wanted to put that out there because I see so many threads on different forums where people are trying to bleed there brakes with a vacuum bleeder and they keep getting air so I ask how they are doing it and it always comes down to they are just pumping away at it the whole time. Well, That amount of vacuum is gonna come from somewhere and that somewhere is past the piston seals in the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder seals. I tell them to let it sit overnight and the next day just give it a couple pumps and wait for the fluid to run, if it does not then give it a couple more pumps and once the fluid is running do not pump it unless the fluid slows down to almost nothing. Not one of them had any more issues.
Side note, pressure bleeders need to be set at less than 15lbs. of air pressure or they will aerate the fluid as it goes in. Another big problem I see. And that one is worse because aerated fluid can take days or more to settle out.Sometimes in those cases it is best to just draw all the fluid out of the master cylinder and blow out the lines and start fresh. You have to fill the master cylinder first before using a pressure bleeder!

[lpcoating]

Our goal was to get as much new fluid in the system as possible. I turned the pump on, cracked the bleeder and he kept the master full. When the catch can got close to the top, tighten bleeder, shut pump off, drain catch can, start over till we got fresh fliud. Goal was achieved in a fraction of the time and the brakes work better than they ever have.

Guy

[lpcoating]

This is what I was talking about in an earlier post. Full welded and tack welded. I was told that the tack welded had issues with weld failure and the full weld tooks it's place.

20200808_150546.jpg

20200808_150546.jpg

Guy

[lpcoating]

No one has any input on the brake shoe weld method?

Guy

[Hambone]

Here are some original and some from Frontline, both seem to be tack welded from the top before the liners were installed. The originals have riveted liners and the Frontline bonded.

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IMG_0692.JPG