A newbie’s first transmission oil change . . .
One of the drawbacks to buying an MV is the absence of maintenance records. I’m sure some owners are more conscientious about record keeping than others, but as a new owner, the only way to know for certain you have the right lubricants in your systems is to change them out yourself.
If you’re interested in this topic, the G838 Wiki titled “Transmission/Transfer” is a good place to start.
To begin, it’s important to understand that while the M151 transmission and transfer case are separate units bolted together, but they’re open to one another internally and share the same oil. Due to the design of the cases, each has its own drain plug. But, . . . there is only one fill plug on the lower, left the side of the transmission case. Two drains, one fill. More on that later.
To the best of my knowledge, there is no change interval specified for M151 transmission oil. The 1988 LO says “CM/R - Change gear lubricant only when required by maintenance repair action, or if contaminated by water or other foreign materials.” That hasn’t always been the case though. The 1973 LO said; "5. GEARCASES Drain every 12,000 miles or annually."
I don’t know when or why the transmission oil change philosophy was modified, but it’s worth noting that there was once a policy of regular transmission oil changes - 12,000 miles or annually.
Regardless of which approach you take to changing transmission oil, you should still make regular checks of the oil level and condition. Assuming no leaks, the LO requirement to check every 1,000 miles or monthly may be excessive. As to checking the oil condition, depending on the amount present, water contamination will turn the oil brownish. Water contamination may be relatively easy to identify, but other than drawing a sample and sending it off to a lab, there isn’t any practical way to check the true condition of the oil - contamination by water or other foreign materials.
One additional consideration is . . . the possible past use of early formulations of GL-5 oils with Extreme Pressure (EP) additives that include active sulfur. Those sulfur compounds are corrosive to the yellow metals (copper, brass, bronze) in the synchronizers. If you don’t know what’s in the transmission, or don’t remember what you put in the transmission years ago, you might want to give additional thought to an oil change.
It may not be consistent with the most recent Army policy, but changing the transmission oil is the simplest way to insure that you have serviceable lubricants.
It’s important to note too, that the -20-1-1 Troubleshooting sections for Transmission - Excessive noise during shifting, No shift lever response, or hard shifting, and Transfer Case - Hard shifting of transfer, all have you check for low and/or contaminated gear oil. If you’re experiencing any of those issues, after making any required adjustments, an oil change may be the quickest, cheapest, easiest ”fix.”
The -10 says the transmission requires 5.5 pints (2.6 liters) of “GO 80/90.” The LO also includes a GO 75 option for operations in extreme cold down to -65̊F. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen cans of GO 80/90 on any store shelves. If you want to do additional research, the NATO codes can be helpful:
Mil Specs have changed over time too. In the 80s it was MIL-L-2105D. In the 90s it became MIL-PRF-2105E, and now SAE-J2360, “Lubricating Oil, Gear Multipurpose (Metric) Military Use,”(from the Defense Logistics Agency).
Since most gear oils conform to the American Petroleum Institute (API) GL ratings, this chart is a good basic reference:
The chart won’t take you very far in terms of understanding the complexities of modern gear oils, but it does help sort out some of the basic terms in plain English.
You can find many, many opinions regarding the “best” gear oil for the M151 transmission on the internet. I won’t open Pandora’s Box by explaining why, but I chose Sta-Lube (CRC) GL-4 SAE 85W90. This particular product meets the current DoD SAE J2360 Standard. It was a conservative choice, and there are other options available. One thing I will recommended though, is to check and confirm the oil you choose has an ASTM D130 Class 1 rating. According to Scott Brownstein at CRC Technical Services, this Sta-Lube gear oil is rated 1b.
One other issue that was a little concerning for me as a noob, were all the warnings I kept seeing regarding the dreaded Pivot Pin. That old illustration from an early PS Magazine issue (Halp!) is a help, but I had to get under the truck and take a look for myself.
I don’t know the history, so I don’t know when the changes were implemented, but there are two possibilities for the pivot pin . . . either an old-style hex head with a tabbed locking washer, or a 3/8" hex socket.
Similarly, the Oil Level/Fill plug may have either an old-style square head (as shown in the illustration below), or a 1 1/8" hex head.
I’ve never seen one so I can’t provide the size of the old-style square head plug. I’m hoping someone else can offer that info. It’s nice to know the size of the socket and/or wrench you’ll need before you crawl under the truck.
In the hope of providing additional clarification (and saving a lot of magenta ink), I reworked the PS Magazine graphic from April 1966 and added a few “embellishments.” It’s a lot of information jammed onto one page, so if anyone sees a mistake or has a suggestion for improvement, please let me know.
The Army must have had a terrible time with this problem over the years because, in addition to the one above, they published at least three more PS Magazine articles to address it. Here’s one from April 1970 (209):
See Part 2
Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
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ODRotorHead
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Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
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Last edited by ODRotorHead on March 26th, 2024, 12:07 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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ODRotorHead
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Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
Continued from Part 1 . . .
Even after changing the hex-head pivot pin over to a hex-socket configuration, they apparently continued to have problems. In the PS Magazine entry below, they changed the nomenclature from “Pivot Pin” to “Pivot Plug.” Given the many years of confusion regarding that particular piece of hardware, it seems like it might have been better to avoid the use of the term “plug” entirely. Just sayin’. From November, 1976 (288):
A quick look at a -20P, or -34P will help clarify the issue (in the early 70s it was figure 69). From that diagram, you can see that if the pivot pin is unscrewed, the Arm Assembly, Transmission Shifter, Reverse will drop down into the gears. If that happens, any attempt to operate the vehicle, or even move it, may cause serious damage to the transmission.
One step the Army took to reduce the number of Pivot Pin errors was to provide a “Drain Plug Wrench” as part of the set of Basic Issue Items for the MUTT. There’s no possible way to remove either type of pivot pin (hex head, or hex socket) with the standard issue drain plug wrench:
See Part 3
Even after changing the hex-head pivot pin over to a hex-socket configuration, they apparently continued to have problems. In the PS Magazine entry below, they changed the nomenclature from “Pivot Pin” to “Pivot Plug.” Given the many years of confusion regarding that particular piece of hardware, it seems like it might have been better to avoid the use of the term “plug” entirely. Just sayin’. From November, 1976 (288):
A quick look at a -20P, or -34P will help clarify the issue (in the early 70s it was figure 69). From that diagram, you can see that if the pivot pin is unscrewed, the Arm Assembly, Transmission Shifter, Reverse will drop down into the gears. If that happens, any attempt to operate the vehicle, or even move it, may cause serious damage to the transmission.
One step the Army took to reduce the number of Pivot Pin errors was to provide a “Drain Plug Wrench” as part of the set of Basic Issue Items for the MUTT. There’s no possible way to remove either type of pivot pin (hex head, or hex socket) with the standard issue drain plug wrench:
See Part 3
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ODRotorHead
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Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change - Part 1
Continued from Part 2 . . .
Note: With regard to the plug used to check the transmission oil level and to fill the transmission after a change, in some places, the plug is called a “level” plug. In others it’s called a “fill” plug. I’ll combine both terms in the hope of avoiding confusion.
I’ve skimmed through the TMs, but haven’t been able to find any information pertaining to routine transmission oil changes. The -20 lists transmission “service” as an Organizational Maintenance function (O), but I haven’t found any detailed information in that document.
The 1988 LO doesn’t offer much, but Note 7 provides a Caution [contamination], and a Note [heat expansion], and establishes the following:
1.) Check gear lubricant level every 1,000 miles or monthly, whichever occurs first.
2.) Change gear lubricant only when required by maintenance repair action, or if contaminated by water or other foreign material.
3.) Drain only after operation when hot.
4.) Inspect for presence of metal particles or water while draining into a drainage container.
5.) Clean magnetic drainplug before replacing.
6.) After draining, reinstall drainplug and tighten 25-35 lb-ft (34-47 N.m.).
7.) Fill to plug level before operation and after draining.
8.) Clean vents, especially after operation in water or mud.
If anyone has better, more detailed references, please share.
Drain and Fill.
The first step is to take the truck out for a drive to get the transmission “hot.” I don’t know how far the truck should be driven under what ambient temperature to produce a hot transmission, but I decided that a six mile loop on an 80 degree day would probably be good enough for my first oil change. Anyone have a recommendation, or even a good guess?
The TM doesn’t provide a step-by-step process to follow (not that I could find), but it’s a simple job. The transmission and the transfer case are separate components, but they share the same oil supply. Each component has its own low point drain, so it’s necessary to open both drains to get all of the old oil out. Knowing the transfer case drain is the lowest point in the system, I decided to start there. I jacked up the front of the vehicle to gain a little extra room to work, but that provided the additional benefit of channeling even more oil back to the transfer case drain. It took a lot more effort to loosen the drain plug than it should have. It required about eighty pounds of torque (according to my calibrated elbow) to break it loose.
Once the dark brown, nasty oil started flowing, I took a close look at the drain plug. On my A2, all three plugs - drain and level/fill are identical (1 1/8" hex) and each one has a small magnet in the center. This one was covered with a mass of fine metal particles that looked like a small glob of mud. Fortunately, there were no metal chips or fragments in that glob. Since I don’t know how many years have passed, or what the transmission has been exposed to since the oil was last changed, I’m not going to worry about the amount of “fuzz” I found on the plug just yet.
The color of the oil - dark brown - is an indication of water contamination. As water contamination increases, the oil will turn increasingly lighter brown and develop a more “milky” appearance. The degree of water contamination in this case wasn’t too bad, but it was additional confirmation that changing the transmission oil in my new-to-me MUTT was the right thing to do.
As the flow gradually slowed to a drizzle, I edged the pan forward a bit and moved on to the transmission drain. Same issue, the plug was way over-tightened. By the time I finally got it off, there was very little oil left in the transmission. I’m guessing about ten percent of the total.
I got out from under the truck, lowered the front end so the vehicle was level, and went off to mow the lawn while gooey brown oil continued to slowly ooze from both drains.
When I got back a couple of hours later, I cleaned up the drain plugs and took a look at what was left of the old crush washers. They’d been torqued down so tight they were reduced to little more than a thin copper film. I had to use a pick to scrape and then peel them off the plug heads. It may seem extravagant, maybe even a bit wasteful, to replace those gaskets at every oil change, but they’re specified as one-time-use for a reason. I suspect the previous owner(s) reused old gaskets and had to keep increasing torque on the plugs to stop the leaks.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Side note. I bought drain plug gaskets from one of our regular MV parts suppliers a few months ago. You can find reasonable deals on ebay, but the going rate is about $4.00 per for MS35769-18 gaskets (crush washers). Not sure if it applies to all models, but on an A2, if you plan to change all of your fluids, you’ll need eight of those gaskets - one for the engine, three for the transmission/transfer case, and two each for the differentials. That’s $32.00 plus who-knows-how-much for shipping.
As an alternative, you can go to the web site for a well established company named Aircraft Spruce and order the same, newly manufactured, mil spec gasket for 64 cents each. The low-cost shipping option for me was five bucks via first class mail. The difference in cost for a set of eight is $10.12 vs. somewhere north of $40. The MS35769-18 gasket can also be found under part number AN900-14. If you find a better deal, please let me know.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Finally, time to refill the oil. After reinstalling both drain plugs with new gaskets (25-35 lb-ft), I used a small brush and a cloth to clean the area around the Level/Fill plug before removing it. Don’t risk contaminating fresh oil with old grit and grime.
I wasn’t sure how to get oil into the transmission without making a mess. The fill point is overhead and there isn’t a lot of room to work (the vehicle should be level). Being a cheapskate, I wasn’t willing to spend a lot of money on a special purpose oil pump that I was going to use only rarely, but I didn’t want to rely on plastic tubing and a squeeze bottle either (I may have to rethink that).
If anyone can offer a recommendation for a method of filling the transmission oil, that’s cheap, easy, and not prone to producing puddles of oil on the shop floor, please share.
Overall, the end result of the oil change was impressive. The transmission is quieter, and the process of shifting is both smoother and more positive.
Due to the fact that the old oil was so nasty (unofficial API terminology), I plan to wait until sometime in the spring and then change the transmission oil again. That short interval between changes will essentially be an extended flush. At the next change, I’ll know exactly how much time and how many miles are on the oil. I’m hoping the next check will provide a somewhat clearer picture of the condition of the transmission - based on fuzz and any contamination present.
If you’re a MUTT newbie like me, and you’ve been at all reluctant to tackle this particular task, I can honestly say it’s a simple job. The rewards are more than worth the effort. Hope this information makes the job a little easier.
Note: With regard to the plug used to check the transmission oil level and to fill the transmission after a change, in some places, the plug is called a “level” plug. In others it’s called a “fill” plug. I’ll combine both terms in the hope of avoiding confusion.
I’ve skimmed through the TMs, but haven’t been able to find any information pertaining to routine transmission oil changes. The -20 lists transmission “service” as an Organizational Maintenance function (O), but I haven’t found any detailed information in that document.
The 1988 LO doesn’t offer much, but Note 7 provides a Caution [contamination], and a Note [heat expansion], and establishes the following:
1.) Check gear lubricant level every 1,000 miles or monthly, whichever occurs first.
2.) Change gear lubricant only when required by maintenance repair action, or if contaminated by water or other foreign material.
3.) Drain only after operation when hot.
4.) Inspect for presence of metal particles or water while draining into a drainage container.
5.) Clean magnetic drainplug before replacing.
6.) After draining, reinstall drainplug and tighten 25-35 lb-ft (34-47 N.m.).
7.) Fill to plug level before operation and after draining.
8.) Clean vents, especially after operation in water or mud.
If anyone has better, more detailed references, please share.
Drain and Fill.
The first step is to take the truck out for a drive to get the transmission “hot.” I don’t know how far the truck should be driven under what ambient temperature to produce a hot transmission, but I decided that a six mile loop on an 80 degree day would probably be good enough for my first oil change. Anyone have a recommendation, or even a good guess?
The TM doesn’t provide a step-by-step process to follow (not that I could find), but it’s a simple job. The transmission and the transfer case are separate components, but they share the same oil supply. Each component has its own low point drain, so it’s necessary to open both drains to get all of the old oil out. Knowing the transfer case drain is the lowest point in the system, I decided to start there. I jacked up the front of the vehicle to gain a little extra room to work, but that provided the additional benefit of channeling even more oil back to the transfer case drain. It took a lot more effort to loosen the drain plug than it should have. It required about eighty pounds of torque (according to my calibrated elbow) to break it loose.
Once the dark brown, nasty oil started flowing, I took a close look at the drain plug. On my A2, all three plugs - drain and level/fill are identical (1 1/8" hex) and each one has a small magnet in the center. This one was covered with a mass of fine metal particles that looked like a small glob of mud. Fortunately, there were no metal chips or fragments in that glob. Since I don’t know how many years have passed, or what the transmission has been exposed to since the oil was last changed, I’m not going to worry about the amount of “fuzz” I found on the plug just yet.
The color of the oil - dark brown - is an indication of water contamination. As water contamination increases, the oil will turn increasingly lighter brown and develop a more “milky” appearance. The degree of water contamination in this case wasn’t too bad, but it was additional confirmation that changing the transmission oil in my new-to-me MUTT was the right thing to do.
As the flow gradually slowed to a drizzle, I edged the pan forward a bit and moved on to the transmission drain. Same issue, the plug was way over-tightened. By the time I finally got it off, there was very little oil left in the transmission. I’m guessing about ten percent of the total.
I got out from under the truck, lowered the front end so the vehicle was level, and went off to mow the lawn while gooey brown oil continued to slowly ooze from both drains.
When I got back a couple of hours later, I cleaned up the drain plugs and took a look at what was left of the old crush washers. They’d been torqued down so tight they were reduced to little more than a thin copper film. I had to use a pick to scrape and then peel them off the plug heads. It may seem extravagant, maybe even a bit wasteful, to replace those gaskets at every oil change, but they’re specified as one-time-use for a reason. I suspect the previous owner(s) reused old gaskets and had to keep increasing torque on the plugs to stop the leaks.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Side note. I bought drain plug gaskets from one of our regular MV parts suppliers a few months ago. You can find reasonable deals on ebay, but the going rate is about $4.00 per for MS35769-18 gaskets (crush washers). Not sure if it applies to all models, but on an A2, if you plan to change all of your fluids, you’ll need eight of those gaskets - one for the engine, three for the transmission/transfer case, and two each for the differentials. That’s $32.00 plus who-knows-how-much for shipping.
As an alternative, you can go to the web site for a well established company named Aircraft Spruce and order the same, newly manufactured, mil spec gasket for 64 cents each. The low-cost shipping option for me was five bucks via first class mail. The difference in cost for a set of eight is $10.12 vs. somewhere north of $40. The MS35769-18 gasket can also be found under part number AN900-14. If you find a better deal, please let me know.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Finally, time to refill the oil. After reinstalling both drain plugs with new gaskets (25-35 lb-ft), I used a small brush and a cloth to clean the area around the Level/Fill plug before removing it. Don’t risk contaminating fresh oil with old grit and grime.
I wasn’t sure how to get oil into the transmission without making a mess. The fill point is overhead and there isn’t a lot of room to work (the vehicle should be level). Being a cheapskate, I wasn’t willing to spend a lot of money on a special purpose oil pump that I was going to use only rarely, but I didn’t want to rely on plastic tubing and a squeeze bottle either (I may have to rethink that).
If anyone can offer a recommendation for a method of filling the transmission oil, that’s cheap, easy, and not prone to producing puddles of oil on the shop floor, please share.
Overall, the end result of the oil change was impressive. The transmission is quieter, and the process of shifting is both smoother and more positive.
Due to the fact that the old oil was so nasty (unofficial API terminology), I plan to wait until sometime in the spring and then change the transmission oil again. That short interval between changes will essentially be an extended flush. At the next change, I’ll know exactly how much time and how many miles are on the oil. I’m hoping the next check will provide a somewhat clearer picture of the condition of the transmission - based on fuzz and any contamination present.
If you’re a MUTT newbie like me, and you’ve been at all reluctant to tackle this particular task, I can honestly say it’s a simple job. The rewards are more than worth the effort. Hope this information makes the job a little easier.
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Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
Good write-up, I would only like to add one thing. 85W-90 or 80W-90 oil is pretty readily available and I would not worry about the mil-spec numbers from the manuals since they are old and outdated. Just be sure you get a brand name oil that has the proper ratings. GL-5 can be used if it has the MT-1 additive in it, which all name brand oils do. But I also stick with GL-4 to be on the safe side plus I can use it in the differentials also.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
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raymond
- Major General
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: November 26th, 2007, 8:29 pm
- Location: God's country, Clarksville Mo.
Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
I use a hand pump that replaces the lid on a 5 gallon bucket.
As for what weight oil to use, I use 85/140.
Shell used to say that it was OK to run one weight grade heavier in most lubricant applications but never go one grade lighter.
The only exception to this rule was for extreme cold weather applications.
As for what weight oil to use, I use 85/140.
Shell used to say that it was OK to run one weight grade heavier in most lubricant applications but never go one grade lighter.
The only exception to this rule was for extreme cold weather applications.
Raymond
"On the day when crime puts on the apparel of innocence, through a curious reversal peculiar to our age, it is innocence that is called on to justify itself." Albert Camus
"On the day when crime puts on the apparel of innocence, through a curious reversal peculiar to our age, it is innocence that is called on to justify itself." Albert Camus
Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
Great info. Thanks for puttin all this detailed research up.
Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
as a side note, I am refilling the gear oil through the shifter hole. Easier for me than trying to pump from the side, even given the fact that I have a pump for this job.
Horst
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
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ODRotorHead
- Sergeant
- Posts: 80
- Joined: December 5th, 2022, 11:30 pm
Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
This was part of the original post, but I took it out because the post was already too long:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Side note: While looking for an inexpensive oil filler, I came up with this:
I re-purposed a new garden sprayer ($10), cobbled together a few brass fittings ($10), and had an oil fill pump. Sort of.
All it required was cutting off the spray head, installing a compression fitting, and attaching an elbow with a short nipple.
It was a fun project and the pump worked as I’d hoped, but there were a couple of issues. 85/90 gear oil is obviously far more viscous than typical garden spray solutions. Cutting off the spray head and replacing it with brass fittings provided a clear channel, but I didn’t fully appreciate how slowly (slowly!) the oil would flow through that narrow hose/valve/wand combination.
In addition to that, when the 1-gallon tank is fairly full, pressure drops off rapidly as oil volume goes down. I had to interrupt the fill process several times to pump up the tank. A partial solution was to have my “shop assistant” work the pump as oil flowed into the transmission. It was only a partial solution because, although the oil filled more quickly, it still took a long time.
On the plus side, I was able to monitor the amount of oil being transferred and, to fill the transmission/transfer case without spilling a drop of oil.
When the fill was finally complete, I opened the pressure relief valve, drained down the wand and hose, replaced the brass end cap, and covered the handle and filler neck before putting my new pump away - ‘till next time.
Maybe.
I really can’t recommend this set up as it’s currently configured. It takes way too long to pump 5.5 pints of oil. If I can figure out a way to fit it with a larger diameter hose and a better valve (for cheap!), I’ll get back to you.
In the meantime, if someone can suggest a better, or at least, a faster way to get oil into the trans . . .
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I haven't gotten back to this yet, but I'll get it figured out eventually. I'm all in for simple and cheap (mostly cheap).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Side note: While looking for an inexpensive oil filler, I came up with this:
I re-purposed a new garden sprayer ($10), cobbled together a few brass fittings ($10), and had an oil fill pump. Sort of.
All it required was cutting off the spray head, installing a compression fitting, and attaching an elbow with a short nipple.
It was a fun project and the pump worked as I’d hoped, but there were a couple of issues. 85/90 gear oil is obviously far more viscous than typical garden spray solutions. Cutting off the spray head and replacing it with brass fittings provided a clear channel, but I didn’t fully appreciate how slowly (slowly!) the oil would flow through that narrow hose/valve/wand combination.
In addition to that, when the 1-gallon tank is fairly full, pressure drops off rapidly as oil volume goes down. I had to interrupt the fill process several times to pump up the tank. A partial solution was to have my “shop assistant” work the pump as oil flowed into the transmission. It was only a partial solution because, although the oil filled more quickly, it still took a long time.
On the plus side, I was able to monitor the amount of oil being transferred and, to fill the transmission/transfer case without spilling a drop of oil.
When the fill was finally complete, I opened the pressure relief valve, drained down the wand and hose, replaced the brass end cap, and covered the handle and filler neck before putting my new pump away - ‘till next time.
Maybe.
I really can’t recommend this set up as it’s currently configured. It takes way too long to pump 5.5 pints of oil. If I can figure out a way to fit it with a larger diameter hose and a better valve (for cheap!), I’ll get back to you.
In the meantime, if someone can suggest a better, or at least, a faster way to get oil into the trans . . .
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I haven't gotten back to this yet, but I'll get it figured out eventually. I'm all in for simple and cheap (mostly cheap).
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Re: Newbie's First Transmission Oil Change
I used a suction gun(put the hose in the gear oil, suck it into the gun, then put it transmission
mark
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416