Motor Rebuild
Moderators: rickf, raymond, Mr. Recovery
Re: Motor Rebuild
How did you remove the expansion plugs and where did you find replacements?
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
I just use a flat tip screwdriver, place the tip to one side near the edge and tap on it a few times till it turns sideways, then pry it out with the screwdriver or pull it out with pliers. Red River Parts & Equipment in Tx. has them in stock, you will need 4 to do the whole motor, the one in the head is smaller, they are $3.95 ea. part# 8754412 You need to call or order by e-mail, 903-547-2226, info@redriverparts.com
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
Re: Motor Rebuild
Thanks again Dan, the plugs came right out but I wasn't expecting all the "rust bunnies" to come with it.My block needs a thorough cleaning of the water jacket and I'm not sure that soaking in the degreaser will get'r done?!
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
Hi, Disassembled the OLD "new old stock" head I've had for about 4 years and it was not what I expected,
Just found out that my valve spring compressor is still in Baltimore so I took the valves out the old way.
you stuff some rags under the valves to keep them from moving, hold a deep socket on top the spring and hit it with a SeaBee tool.
cleaned up all parts and the valve seats and guides look good, I'll take it to work tomorrow and blast the head, then I'll hand lap the valves seats.
Just found out that my valve spring compressor is still in Baltimore so I took the valves out the old way.
you stuff some rags under the valves to keep them from moving, hold a deep socket on top the spring and hit it with a SeaBee tool.
cleaned up all parts and the valve seats and guides look good, I'll take it to work tomorrow and blast the head, then I'll hand lap the valves seats.
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
hg, you can flush it out by sticking a water hose in the holes or, use a high pressure washer. The only other way is to have it hot tanked. Happy to help!
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
OK! the head was cleaned in the blast cabinet thursday and I got it ready for primer at home, today I lapped the valves and put some of them in the head.
the head ready for primer.
primer on.
cleaned out all bolt holes.
head, valves and tools ready.
apply valve grinding compound.
lapp valves with hand tool.
check seating progress.
all valves lapped.
put valves in head, my C clamp valve spring compressor is in Baltimore so I had to use the one you use when the head is on the motor. Back to the rag under the valves.
spring compressed, put over valve stem, retainer and keepers put in place, spring released.
I'll do the other 6 tomorrow.
the head ready for primer.
primer on.
cleaned out all bolt holes.
head, valves and tools ready.
apply valve grinding compound.
lapp valves with hand tool.
check seating progress.
all valves lapped.
put valves in head, my C clamp valve spring compressor is in Baltimore so I had to use the one you use when the head is on the motor. Back to the rag under the valves.
spring compressed, put over valve stem, retainer and keepers put in place, spring released.
I'll do the other 6 tomorrow.
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
Re: Motor Rebuild
That is some good work there Dan
BTW... if you want to do this up cosmetically too you can get an NOS Engine Data Plate from Surplus City Jeep Parts. I got NOS rivets from Saturn. Then Steve K. at Owens Export is doing the stamping for me.
I'm not crazy about how the rebuild tags look, when they're fixed to the original data plate, so I had Steve (Owens Export) stamp the NOS engine data plate with "Rebuilt 5-10" as well as "Bore +.020 Mains -.010 Rods -.010"
Keep the pictures comin'!
BTW... if you want to do this up cosmetically too you can get an NOS Engine Data Plate from Surplus City Jeep Parts. I got NOS rivets from Saturn. Then Steve K. at Owens Export is doing the stamping for me.
I'm not crazy about how the rebuild tags look, when they're fixed to the original data plate, so I had Steve (Owens Export) stamp the NOS engine data plate with "Rebuilt 5-10" as well as "Bore +.020 Mains -.010 Rods -.010"
Keep the pictures comin'!
Last edited by mrdibbles on June 6th, 2010, 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1992 Mercedes-Benz 250GD Wolf - Former German Army
St. Augustine, Florida
St. Augustine, Florida
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
Mr.D, Thanks for the imfo. on the engine data plate, I just may do that, The owner of the machaine shop was very carefull in removing the tag but still broke the edge off 1 hole.
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
- Mr. Recovery
- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2892
- Joined: December 5th, 2007, 9:03 pm
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Re: Motor Rebuild
OK, here is the last 3 days work.
All the valves have been installed, head gasket and head put on the block.
started to put the head bolts in and, I seem to have misplaced the "hardened" flat washers so, off to the local high profromance auto store for a set, they come in a pack of "34" for $15.00, as I only needed 10 I'll have enough to do 2 more motors with 4 left over incase I misplace more of them.
head bolts and "hardened" washers installed hand tight.
all head bolts torqued.
next I checked the valve push rods for any bends and installed them.
next, make sure you put the small "cap" on the 4 exhaust valves befor installing the rocker arm shaft and oil tubes, "NOTE" put the oil tubes in the rocker arm support befor you sit it on the head.
install side cover and gasket, clean oil from block and head,then prep for primer.
after drying overnight, prep for paint.
1st coat of black.
2nd coat.
adjust valves, install valve cover and gasket.
install data plate, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, motor mount brackets, lower radiator supports and lifting eyes.
remove motor from stand and sit on wood blocks.
prep flywheel area and install flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and bell houseing.
All the valves have been installed, head gasket and head put on the block.
started to put the head bolts in and, I seem to have misplaced the "hardened" flat washers so, off to the local high profromance auto store for a set, they come in a pack of "34" for $15.00, as I only needed 10 I'll have enough to do 2 more motors with 4 left over incase I misplace more of them.
head bolts and "hardened" washers installed hand tight.
all head bolts torqued.
next I checked the valve push rods for any bends and installed them.
next, make sure you put the small "cap" on the 4 exhaust valves befor installing the rocker arm shaft and oil tubes, "NOTE" put the oil tubes in the rocker arm support befor you sit it on the head.
install side cover and gasket, clean oil from block and head,then prep for primer.
after drying overnight, prep for paint.
1st coat of black.
2nd coat.
adjust valves, install valve cover and gasket.
install data plate, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, motor mount brackets, lower radiator supports and lifting eyes.
remove motor from stand and sit on wood blocks.
prep flywheel area and install flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and bell houseing.
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
Re: Motor Rebuild
That isn't a motor. Thats pornography,
1992 Mercedes-Benz 250GD Wolf - Former German Army
St. Augustine, Florida
St. Augustine, Florida
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Re: Motor Rebuild
Thanks for some really great pictures. I always find your posts both interesting and informative.
Ralph
1967 M151A1
1967 M151A1
1967 M416
1947 Bantam TC-3 trailer
If The Phone Don't Ring ... You'll Know It's Me
Airborne Ranger CIB Vietnam
1967 M151A1
1967 M151A1
1967 M416
1947 Bantam TC-3 trailer
If The Phone Don't Ring ... You'll Know It's Me
Airborne Ranger CIB Vietnam
- Mr. Recovery
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Re: Motor Rebuild
OK, here's an update! I found out 3 things today about my motor, IT FIRED RIGHT UP!! it has oil "PRESSURE" and it is real loud streight out the exhaust manifould! . I am waiting on a water pump from RedRiver Parts that should be here on Monday, then I can run it for more then 15/20 seconds and check it over good.
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
- Mr. Recovery
- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2892
- Joined: December 5th, 2007, 9:03 pm
- Location: New Port Richey, Fl.
- Contact:
Re: Motor Rebuild
Hi, here's a little update on my Motor, I got a new water pump from Red River Parts and put it on, I had to file off some metal from one of the mounting bolt Boss, it was too thick and would hit the thermostat houseing.
I then bolted on a tranny an mounted the radiator, now I could put it in the mutt and have a solid platform for a longer break in run.
I made a upper hose from one I had on hand, this is a good number to keep incase you ever need one out on the road, I cut off the 2 ends and it fit like a glove!
I hooked everything up that I needed to run the motor, 1 rubber line to a 2gl gas can on the floor, ( I used a 66 Ply fuel pump) 1 ground wire to the mutt frame from 2 batt's on the floor, 1 hot wire to the distributor. hit the starter with a hot wire and fire it up.
Now! this is where the finless brown trout hit the fan! I had it at an idle and all is good, I run it up to half throttle and POP! oil went everywhere, The oil filter split wide open. I looked at the oil pressure guage and it was at 75psi and going down as I pulled the wire off the distributor.
My first thought was, the cam bearning oil holes may not be lined up properly, (trying to put the blame on someone else) then the more I thought about it I remembered something about the oil pump! I had taken it apart and "cleaned" it BUT, I didn't remove the pressure relief valve from the gear cover and clean it. so now I need to pull the oil pan back off and properly reclean the oil pump. I have a new oil pan gasket kit on the way. To be continued!
I then bolted on a tranny an mounted the radiator, now I could put it in the mutt and have a solid platform for a longer break in run.
I made a upper hose from one I had on hand, this is a good number to keep incase you ever need one out on the road, I cut off the 2 ends and it fit like a glove!
I hooked everything up that I needed to run the motor, 1 rubber line to a 2gl gas can on the floor, ( I used a 66 Ply fuel pump) 1 ground wire to the mutt frame from 2 batt's on the floor, 1 hot wire to the distributor. hit the starter with a hot wire and fire it up.
Now! this is where the finless brown trout hit the fan! I had it at an idle and all is good, I run it up to half throttle and POP! oil went everywhere, The oil filter split wide open. I looked at the oil pressure guage and it was at 75psi and going down as I pulled the wire off the distributor.
My first thought was, the cam bearning oil holes may not be lined up properly, (trying to put the blame on someone else) then the more I thought about it I remembered something about the oil pump! I had taken it apart and "cleaned" it BUT, I didn't remove the pressure relief valve from the gear cover and clean it. so now I need to pull the oil pan back off and properly reclean the oil pump. I have a new oil pan gasket kit on the way. To be continued!
1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
Re: Motor Rebuild
Well at least you KNOW you got oil to all of the passages!
Rick
Rick
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone