My 1967 M151-A1 restoration

[rickf]

OK, Easy one first. A1 uses different wheel studs and nuts than A2, they are smaller. They hold just fine so there is no safety issue with them. Changing over would mean also changing hubs to accommodate the larger wheel studs. Not worth it. The headlights should have wires and plugs molded to them and are probably marked 24 volt on the back, if so then you already have the right lights and that would explain the dim lights. If the headlights were not changed then the rest of the bulbs probably were not either. The gauges will only work on 24 volt. If you can get a good picture of the wires going into the alternator I can probably tell what has been done to adapt the alternator. It would not be hard to do so there probably have not been many changes done to the wiring. Converting it back to 24 volt should not be too hard as long as the wiring has not been hacked too bad.

[Maine Mutt]

Two belt pulley and a single red wire running to old plastic conduit in thru the dash hole. The alternator is adjustable so I'm figuring I'll need some good pressure on the belt(s) when I'm ready. I don't see any markings on the coil to indicate voltage but a shop could do a load test I'm sure. The guy I got the mutt off got it a few weeks earlier in a horse trade of some sort. He couldn't tell me much about anything on it, so it's been a guessing game. And so for confirmation, I should find a1 style nut and bolt for the wheels?

[Fil Bonica]

Last A2 we reworked had one hub from an A1.
We punched out the A1. Studs and installed A2 studs.
You dont necessarily have to charge hubs.
Its a little spooky but you could do one hub as an A2 and run it that way.
Fil Bonica

[rickf]

Well I am sorry to say I cannot give you any more insight on the wiring from that picture. The wires that would have normally gone to the regulator are not in the picture so I will need a picture of the firewall area around where the wiring bundle comes out from inside. Does not have to be an extreme closeup, can cover from the center of the vehicle out to the fender and back to the carb. This vehicle appears to have been an X cut from the weld line through the firewall where the alternator would mount. There is probably a similar weld on the other side of the engine on the firewall.

[Maine Mutt]

So it's been a while, been poking here and there on my mutt when I have the free time. I've done both front suspensions and replaced all bushings and shocks. Turned out fairly cheap too, right around $100 for both sides. Only took a dozen hours or so and 20-30 straight blades for scraping rust and "cakey" paints. Since I don't have a kickass garage with all these lifts and flippers I've kept this a rolling restoration up until these past few weeks. Once I popped the drivers rear wheel off I noticed a big rust out. Actually several. Keep in mind these two spots are far worse than anything I've come across on this so far, Actually a few folks I've shown were utterly impressed with the lack of rust outs considering the age and demil cuts. I'm looking for any ideas for the rust spot on the rear a-arm. There is a dime sized hole you can see where the coil sits. Any chance saving this or should I start looking for a new arm? Attached are a few pics of progress. I found a sick camo net at a yardsale for $10 and I thought it looked damn good over the top.

[Maine Mutt]

And don't hate on my can, I like it that way.

[Maine Mutt]

Heres the dif between the day I brought it home and today. I'm actually impressed it got this far this fast.