carburetor cleaner air hose
Moderators: rickf, raymond, Mr. Recovery
carburetor cleaner air hose
On the air cleaner rubber hose on the carb end, there was torn crack within a 1/4" of the end where you put the clamp.I had a lot of back firing when releasing the throttle.So put the hose back on the carburetor, used some loctite sealing wrap to wrap around the hose to seal it up, put clamp back on, connected hose to air cleaner.
So now there is no more backfiring.The mutt goes pretty good.To fix the hose I am going to try some rubber cement that you use to patch a tire.
I thought at first, the coil was going bad.Maybe I better R&R the carburetor(holley)?Ok I have exceeded my written thought limit.
Why no more backfiring?
Thanks,
mark
So now there is no more backfiring.The mutt goes pretty good.To fix the hose I am going to try some rubber cement that you use to patch a tire.
I thought at first, the coil was going bad.Maybe I better R&R the carburetor(holley)?Ok I have exceeded my written thought limit.
Why no more backfiring?
Thanks,
mark
mark
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
One of the many things super glue (cyanoacrylate) works well on, is rubber. Try it. I'm sure you'll be pleased with the results. Superglue and rubber get along very well together.
First - make sure your distributor hasn't become loose. That's the little bolt on the bottom side of the distributor housing....not the one down on the engine block but at the bottom of the distributor housing itself. Could be your timing is off. Remember the two finger width general rule? A two adult finger-width should be the space between the distributor housing and the oil filter. This will get you close to being properly timed. If it IS out of adjustment and you don't have the proper tools to set the timing you can do the time honored farm-boy method which is to have someone attempt to start the truck while you slowly and carefully rotate the distributor housing. An engine that starts at the first bump of the starter is very close to having proper timing settings.
Is your backfiring is blowing back through the carb and blowing out your intake hose? If so, you should be looking for a timing issue and/or a valve that is misbehaving.
Provided everything else is working well, backfiring is the result of fuel combusting outside the cylinder as a result of intermittent ignition (spark) which results in unburnt fuel being exhausted into the exhaust pipe and then later ignited, (and that can be ignition on any, or all cylinders). It can also be from a valve that isn't seating (as a result of poor timing, poor valve adjustment, sticking valve or simply a bad valve that can no longer seat properly).
So, if when it runs, it runs well and smoothly, but occasionally backfires, you should be thinking ignition, rather than timing or valves.
If this is an ongoing problem and the engine has started to run roughly (whereas before it ran well) a quick way to figure out what is going on is to confirm your timing settings and then perform a compression test. Even if you don't have a fancy compression test you can use the old finger-in-the-sparkplug-hole method. From that alone, you should be able to determine which cylinder is giving you problems.
First - make sure your distributor hasn't become loose. That's the little bolt on the bottom side of the distributor housing....not the one down on the engine block but at the bottom of the distributor housing itself. Could be your timing is off. Remember the two finger width general rule? A two adult finger-width should be the space between the distributor housing and the oil filter. This will get you close to being properly timed. If it IS out of adjustment and you don't have the proper tools to set the timing you can do the time honored farm-boy method which is to have someone attempt to start the truck while you slowly and carefully rotate the distributor housing. An engine that starts at the first bump of the starter is very close to having proper timing settings.
Is your backfiring is blowing back through the carb and blowing out your intake hose? If so, you should be looking for a timing issue and/or a valve that is misbehaving.
Provided everything else is working well, backfiring is the result of fuel combusting outside the cylinder as a result of intermittent ignition (spark) which results in unburnt fuel being exhausted into the exhaust pipe and then later ignited, (and that can be ignition on any, or all cylinders). It can also be from a valve that isn't seating (as a result of poor timing, poor valve adjustment, sticking valve or simply a bad valve that can no longer seat properly).
So, if when it runs, it runs well and smoothly, but occasionally backfires, you should be thinking ignition, rather than timing or valves.
If this is an ongoing problem and the engine has started to run roughly (whereas before it ran well) a quick way to figure out what is going on is to confirm your timing settings and then perform a compression test. Even if you don't have a fancy compression test you can use the old finger-in-the-sparkplug-hole method. From that alone, you should be able to determine which cylinder is giving you problems.
Last edited by m3a1 on August 19th, 2018, 4:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
agree, with backfiring one of the things which need to be checked is ignition timing. I had a lot of backfiring when driving down a hill with no throttle. Correcting the timing did get rid of all of this
Horst
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
The timing is right on the mark, now it backfires every so often.(after I taped up the air cleaner hose at carburetor)But for the most part, it doesn't.I did a compression test a month or two ago when the backfiring a lot started.On the old cars I did have, I would advance the timing just a little bit to compensate for worn parts.I wonder if I should do this for the mutt?
I guess tomorrow I'l adjust the valves.But the mutt runs pretty good now
I guess tomorrow I'l adjust the valves.But the mutt runs pretty good now
mark
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
Don't just do one part of a tune up, Do it all at once. Adjust the valves, set the timing, adjust the plug gap. I did not mention points since I know you ave electronic ignition. But for those with points they need to be set before setting the timing. If it is backfiring from the exhaust it is 90% of the time a leak in an exhaust gasket. Look for soot tracks at the exhaust manifold or check for leaks around the gasket from the manifold to the pipe.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
Do the easy checks first and remember, if you're hearing hoof-beats, you should be thinking about horses, rather than zebras.
Despite my affection for electronic ignition, I must say that even an electronic ignition module that is 100% perfect can be affected by a faulty rotor, which is to say, if the rotor is sloppy on the shaft it will create a timing variable that could produce the symptoms you are experiencing. So, no matter whether you are running points or electronic, while you are inside that distributor give that rotor a little twist just to be sure that it's on there solid.
Despite my affection for electronic ignition, I must say that even an electronic ignition module that is 100% perfect can be affected by a faulty rotor, which is to say, if the rotor is sloppy on the shaft it will create a timing variable that could produce the symptoms you are experiencing. So, no matter whether you are running points or electronic, while you are inside that distributor give that rotor a little twist just to be sure that it's on there solid.
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
Thanks to all for their feedback, I'll do the follow ups asap
mark
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
1968 m274A5
1960 m151
1981 m151A2
1964 m416
1971 m416
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
I always enjoy reading the older links they typically answer my questions and give me guidance to address issues.
Ted
1968 M151A1
1968 M151A1
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
Here is a option for a replacement hose.
I found a modern fuel hose that is supposed to be used as a fuel tank filler neck. It has worked for me for a few years now. It is gates #24718. If remember correctly you just have to trim a bit off each end to make it fit. It wasn’t to difficult to do, just used sharp razor knife.
I found a modern fuel hose that is supposed to be used as a fuel tank filler neck. It has worked for me for a few years now. It is gates #24718. If remember correctly you just have to trim a bit off each end to make it fit. It wasn’t to difficult to do, just used sharp razor knife.
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
Fuel filler hoses are usually pretty pricey, why not use the stock part?
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: carburetor cleaner air hose
They are bit pricey but they claim to be gasoline, gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol, ethers, diesel and biodiesel suitable.