Battery cover questions

[mutt and jeff]

Working on my A1 battery cover yesterday and took a wire wheel to the entire cover to get it down to bare metal and then prime and paint. I notice an aire vent slit on one of the sides, which leads me to believe that this cover should be water tight, when installed. But, no rubber or foam or any other type of gasket between lid and jeep floor. Should there be?

And, with my new radio poser cable running from the rear floor into the battery compartment, the battery cover just sits on top of the cable. Again, this doesn't seem too water tight. Should I be notching or looking for knock out circles for these power cables to enter the battery compartment?

I'll hang up and listen.

[lpcoating]

If you have the original divider between the tool box and battery box there are three holes towards the outside that have caps in them. As far as the battery cover, to my knowledge it is metal on metal.

Guy

[lpcoating]

This is what I'm talking about. I'm guessing that should have a grommet.

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Guy

[mutt and jeff]

OK, I've got them. Three approx. 3/4" holes with metal covers on them that pop off. So that will get my two power cables into the tool box and I can store my excess cable in there for a nice, neat look. But I still need to get the terminals from the tool box to inside the battery box. I guess drill holes? Also, my son did the radio connections and has the terminal block and post inside the battery compartment and the grounds for the radio cables connected to the same bolt as the battery ground. Should that positive block and post be moved to inside the tool compartment instead of the battery box?
Here's a pic of my battery compartment. I may have my batteries in reversed. Right now the radio terminal block positive cable to battery is not long enough to move to inside the tool compartment.

I solve one problem and create three more . . . it's a learning curve.

battery comp final.JPG

[mutt and jeff]

Found them. Three covered access holes on tool box lip that gets cables into tool box, then three more from inside tool box to inside battery box. So that gets me from radios to batteries through the tol box and into the battery compartement.

Thanks for the direction.

[rwhimes]

I was also pained by the metal-on-metal detail between the battery box and its cover. I ended up using some leftover weatherstripping on the battery box cover to keep the two things from chafing.

[mutt and jeff]

I noticed that my lid can go on in either direction. Once I install my "Check Batteries Daily" stencil it will be ovvious, but what is the correct installation direction. I've got a slit vent on one side. Which way does that face? Some notches in the lip on one of the long side bottom lips, but they don't seem to line up with anything.

I think I'll put some fuzzy tape on the underside of the lid lip to keep it from rubbing. I've also glued a thin layer of sheet vinyl to the underside of the lid to prevent any accidental arc welding. And, of course, the terminal rubber boots.

[Mr. Recovery]

The notches go to the front and lineup with the seat mounts.

dan-2beers.jpg

[Mark]

I glued a rubber blanket (linemen use it to cover up high voltage components in a power line) to the inside of battery cover in the remote case of cover getting smashed down shorting out the batteries.] which is really a paranoid action.LOL

[Flyingvan911]

It’s not supposed to be water tight. The battery box floor should have drain holes in it to let water out. It’s wise to let some air vent from/through the battery box to keep gasses from building up. Lots of other MV’s have their batteries wide open. Deuce and a half batteries sit under the cab but are wide open as far as air and water go.

[mutt and jeff]

Yes, I've got the battery tray with the two rubbr drain tubes sticking down through the bottom of the battery box, but I presumed it was for leaking batteries. But it will not only act as a battery compartment water drain holes if water gets that depth in the compartment, but it will also allow water into the compartment in the event of fording, so that makes sense that the compartment was not meant to be water tight.

So I'll just make it a little less noisy.

Now for those noisy seat frames...