Slave Receptacle Installation

[ODRotorHead]

I recently purchase a two-pin Slave Receptacle for my MUTT. All I got was the Lead Assembly (the receptacle with attached cables). I didn't get a hardware pack, a template, or a set of instructions. I worked up a template for drilling, but don't know how it should be positioned on the passenger side cowl to avoid problems with a heater installation if I should decide to add that later. Does anyone have an old set of slave receptacle installation instructions that can be copied and posted?

Slave Receptacle Template LOW 001.jpg

M151A2 Slave Receptacle 002.jpg

M151 Slave Receptacle 001.jpg

Most of the photos I've seen appear to show the receptacle about an inch above the cowl seam and centered between the bottom edge of the hood and the side of the body. Is that reasonably close?

The 34P diagram shows the negative cable attached to the back side of the cowl on one of the receptacle mounting bolts. I read a post from years back that advised against that and instead, recommended using a different grounding location. Any suggestions?

Lastly, I also read in the previously mentioned post that the long slave receptacle cable should be connected to the positive terminal of the "positive battery." I've never heard that term before, but it sounds reasonable. Is that correct? Does anyone have a diagram of a correctly wired battery assembly they might be willing to share. My MUTT has been "worked over' so many times that I don't trust any of the current installations.

Thanks for your help.

Mark

[ODRotorHead]

A few more hours of searching and the Oracle finally gave up the answer. Someone on the G503 forum asked the same question back in April of 2020. One of their members, "muttguru," provided the answer: -34-1 Chapter 16 Special Purpose Kits. Instructions for the Hot Water Heater -25F, and the Winterization Heater Kit -65F, contain all the required installation details for the Slave Receptacle.

M151 Slave Receptacle 002B.jpg

M151 Slave Receptacle 003B.jpg

The battery box is next, then . . .

Mark

[rickf]

There is an upgrade for the battery box that puts the hot terminals on a buss mounted to the back of the battery box so you do not have to try to attach everything to the battery terminal. I don't remember the name for it but if you search for M151 battery box upgrade or terms like that you will probably find it. And if Ken see's this thread he will know for sure and have all the paperwork for it.

[Mark]

#2 Batt Connection.png

Battery Connect..png

I think this is what what rickf is talking about

[muttguru]

Hello OD,

I've just seen your messages.........
As Rick and Mark have said, there is a kit that allows owners to connect accessories to the power supply but not through the battery terminals.

The kit you need to look for is "INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR 1/4-TON BATTERY JUNCTION TERMINAL KIT."

The instructions are easy to follow and it's a fairly easy job to complete. At the moment I only have the instructions in PDF format. If you e-mail me directly, I can send it to you right away. File size is a tiny 2.5 MB.
See below for addresss.

Ken
ps..... Army Jeep Parts apparently has the kits in stock with a reduced price too !
https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-2988-m1 ... -7133.aspx

[ODRotorHead]

My thanks to Rick, Mark, and Ken. I now have an NOS Battery Junction Terminal Kit that I'll be installing (hopefully) sometime next week. I'll start there while doing some additional research on the battery box bus idea.
Thanks again!
Mark

[ODRotorHead]

I cleaned out the battery box in order to install the battery box junction upgrade, but found that the previous owner used the back wall of the box to install a post (a bolt) for the battery ground:

M151A2 Battery Ground 001.jpg

According to the installation instructions for the kit, that location is where the (positive) battery junction terminal should be installed:

M151 Battery Upgrade Instructions 001.jpg

My MUTT has been so cut-up and patched together (the back wall of the battery box is a repair panel) that I don't know where or how things were originally installed. I looked for a diagram in the -20 that might show where the (negative) ground post is supposed to be located, but it appears to be on the back wall of the box near where it is now:

M151 Battery Diagram 003B.jpg

The installation instructions for the kit just show the ground cable disappearing somewhere under the junction terminal:

M151 Battery Upgrade Instructions 004.jpg

Can anyone confirm the correct location for the ground post with the battery box junction upgrade kit installed? A photo of a correct installation would be a big help.

Thanks,

Mark

[rickf]

Are you trying to make this a 100% correct vehicle or just make it a serviceable runner? If you don't need absolute accuracy then the ground can be moved to anywhere on a clean metal spot on the body and that leaves your space for the positive connection point open. Remember, these were not perfect vehicles right off the assembly line, also, those directions were seldom followed to the letter in a simple installation like this. The ground you have is a perfect example. motor pool Sergeant tells private to mount the ground in the battery box in that area so he drills it and bolts it, just that fast. It works so everyone is happy.

[ODRotorHead]

Thank you for your insights Rick. I understand your point. To be honest, it's a little of both. This little MUTT has been so chopped up, patched, and cobbled together that there's no hope of ever returning it to a "correct" configuration. On the other hand, if I'm going to bore holes in sheet metal, I'd prefer to do it in a manner that at least approximates the original intent of the installation.
Safety is always my first priority. Installing the Battery Box Junction kit is a good idea because it moves the accessory cables (slave, radio, etc.) off the top of the battery and places them in a more protected position, while at the same time providing better security and protection for the battery top terminals.
With regard to the negative ground, before punching yet another hole in the battery box, I'd like to have some idea of what the original installation looks like so I can at least come close. I don't know of any other MUTT owners within a 100 miles of my location, so I have to appeal to the good graces of the G838 members to help sort out the details.
Moving the positive cables off the top of the battery and putting them on a single terminal behind the batteries is a good idea, but it leaves them uncovered and exposed. Battery shorts are no fun, so once I get this installation figured out, I'm going to come up with a small plastic box that will snap over both terminals on the back wall of the battery box. Hopefully that will protect them from inadvertent contact with the box cover and/or dropped tools, seat chains, etc..
I'll let you know how that goes.
Thanks again.
Mark

[rickf]

Give me a couple hours and I will go out and see where mine is grounded. I do know there where issues with rusty sheet metal in some of the locations. Something else to consider is if you want to put in a power cutoff switch you can put the switch and ground in the same location and use one of the switch mounts as the other side of the ground to the body. You might have to use a slightly larger bolt than provided with the switch but that is what drills are for. To those who are sure to say "You HAVE to put the switch on the hot side!". No, you do not. All you have to do is interrupt the circuit from one battery terminal to the other terminal and it does not matter where in the circuit you do that. And on top of that you will now have two more terminals that you have to worry about arcing to ground if you use the hot side. If you use the ground side you do not have to worry about shielding the terminals.

[Mark]

Body Ground-Horn to Bell Housing.I can remember a ground cable bolted under the horn, end of cable was bolted to bell housing.I put a disconnect switch (on/off switch from a loader) in front of passenger seat to battery ground cable.I open the switch when done driving the mutt.I'll see how my picture turned out.
I guess I could put green tape on the ground cable to ID it better.

[rickf]

Not going to be able to get a pic of mine today, They are paving my driveway and it is all torn up in front of the garage where I would need to get in to the Mutt.

[ODRotorHead]

That's a coincidence. I had a 28' x 44' slab poured in front of my garage last month, so I know what you're dealing with. I have plenty of other "projects" to keep me busy for a while. Thanks for offering to help. If you still want to collaborate on the A1 wiring schematic, let me know.
Mark

[rickf]

28x44?!!! I will bet that was a bit pricey? I wish I could afford concrete but that is way out of my budget.