Carburetor without fuel

[ODRotorHead]

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[m75]

Following all of the above techno items, the one item that isn't mentioned is one that Rick passed on to me(pertaining to a truck that has been sitting for more than a week):
With ignition switch OFF, choke IN, crank the starter for 8-10 seconds then stop. Switch ignition ON, a little choke, no foot on gas pedal, then crank the starter up. Works every time for me.

[elmer]

Fantastic and complete post by ODrotorHead.
This week I have finally received the spare parts that I ordered from TJ Murray. This weekend I will change the tank tube and the tip filter and I will explain the results and if I don't get air into the system
Thank you everybody
Elmer

[elmer]

Hello everyone,
I have changed the pickup tube for the original one and I have also added the filter. I have tested it and I still see some air bubbles in the transparent tube that I installed before the pump.
I have checked the metal tube and it does not have any leaks.
The difference that I have seen before the changes is that there is more fuel than before because the filter is almost full and before I always had it almost empty.
Thank you all for your help
Elmer

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[Mark]

Try bleeding the air out of the line/filter

[rickf]

In that cluster of lines is the rubber one the fuel supply? And what are the two with the cloth line? Seems to me there are a couple too many lines there. The three vents on the tank all went to a manifold with one line coming out of that for the emissions canister and one vapor return from the carb. Plus the fuel line. That is four. I see five with one looking like it is going towards the rear of the vehicle.

[elmer]

Here is the detail

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[rickf]

Ok, I have a better idea of what is going on now. I have figured out you are in Spain so you are using metric fuel line I am guessing? That would explain the fabric covered line. I run into this with my VW's. I am pretty sure the metal line is supposed to be 1/4" but that line you have there is a copper line so it is not the original fuel line. But 1/4" you can get by with 6mm rubber fuel line if you lube the hose a bit to slide it on. If it is 5/16 metal tube then 8mm is the correct size but I don't think I have ever seen 8mm fuel line. 8mm is actually just a hair large so 7mm will work but it is going to be a fight to get it on. I think you may have an air leak at that braided line, the rubber in them tends to dry out and crack and you don't see it through the braiding.

[elmer]

Finally!!!Problem solved!!
Thank you all.
In the end I have reorganized and changed the old rubber tubes for new ones and I have also connected a copper tube with a flared tip to the new pickup tube so that they connect perfectly.Yes Rickf,my copper and rubber tubes are 8mm
I add a photo so you can see how it turned out.
When everything was finished, I started it and there was no bubble visible in the piece of transparent tube that I put in for the checks.
I don't know if it's because I'm so happy with the repair that I even think the vehicle is running better.
Greetings to all
Elmer

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[rickf]

[elmer]

Hello everyone, today I had to inject some gasoline again directly into the carburetor because a few seconds after starting the engine it stopped ,I think due to lack of gasoline (the pump was pumping perfectly),
I ´ve wanted to check if The distance of the carburetor float was well adjusted and I ´ve had to adjust the 3/8 because there was too much distance. On the other hand, I remembered that a year ago, when I checked my carburetor I realized that a washer was missing in the idle tube (num.13 in the photo). Is that washer important? What errors can it give?
Thank you so much

zenith 13360B

Elmer

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[rickf]

I have honestly never seen any difference when that seal is missing mainly because the jet seals against the gasket at the top. Your jet appears to sit a bit low so I would find a really small oring if possible to slip on there not so much as a seal but to hold it up tight against the top gasket. As far as the effects of any leakage there, the only thing I can think of is it might run rich if the seal was actually leaking since it would pull extra gas past the idle jet. I still think you are having a choke issue. You need full choke to start it but you also need to leave the choke part way on to keep it running as it warms up. Do you have any problems once it is warmed up? Have you done an intake vacuum leak check?

[elmer]

Hi Rickf,
The vehicle normally starts perfectly if I do it as you taught me; ignition, choke full and after 4 or times, choke at 1/3-1/4 and start.
The problem that I have is when I haven't used it for 15/20 days, it starts but after a few seconds it runs out of fuel and stops. then have to inject some gasoline directly into the carburetor and it starts perfectly.
Always when the engine has warmed up, I remove the choke and the engine runs perfectly and idles very smoothly.
The only difference I have noticed after adjusting the float is that when I accelerate, it gets a little choked. Before adjusting it, it didn't happen.
What I haven't done yet is the intake vacuum test. I have to study how to do it correctly.
Thank

[rickf]

It is entirely possible that the fuel is running back to the tank and you are starting on what little is in the carb that has not evaporated but it quickly runs out before more gas arrives. Have you tried giving it full choke again to see if it will start right back up? You still have not replaced that fuel pump have you? If you are running rich after resetting the float and it did not do that before then you got the float too high. 9/32" is the proper setting from the gasket to the bottom edge of the float on both sides. That idle tube gasket missing is more likely to run rich at idle when vacuum is high. If you cannot find a small O-ring then some fine cotton string wound around the jet will work. Just enough to bring it flush with the surface to a hair above the surface of the body. Make sure it is cotton and not nylon which will melt in the gasoline.