Where to Start?

[TrustyMUTT]

Hello Everyone!

I have offered my limited mechanic skills to a friend that owns a MUTT. It has no ID plates (supposed to have 3 correct?) so I'm not sure of the model. What I know is that is has been sitting for ~ 8 years after it quit running unexpectedly while driving it around one day. I will let ya'll know now that the paint job on this vehicle is something else; someone did it up in baby blue with a good amount of pin striping. I heard it was used as some sort of promotional vehicle a while back.

Anyway, what I couldn't find on this forum is a sticky on the topic of where to start when attempting to get a MUTT that has been sitting for a good while running again. This is a small list that I put together in a few moments, please feel free to alter/add-to as necessary:

1. Ensure engine isn't seized. --What is the easiest way to spin the crankshaft?
2. Replace/Charge Batteries
3. Drain Fuel and Change Filter(s)
4. Check Compression - turning over engine with starter; fuel line disconnected from carb
5. Oil/Filter Change
6. Replace Spark Plugs and or wires - Correct type/gap?
7. Check rest of ignition system
8. Clean/Inspect air cleaner

I look forward to the responses from the much more experienced MUTT owners here... thank you in advance!
~Alex

[Floyd]

Alex: Welcome to the 838. The very first place to start would be the manuals. Go to the portal page and click on the link and you can read and or download all the manuals. They should tell you all you need to know. We have a bunch of super know how to get it done types that are more than willing to jump in and help out on your Mutts problems. You'll find out a bunch just by posting some pics of the vehicle. Good luck.

Floyd

[Cobra5]

Are you helping a friend repair it or are you looking at possibly purchasing? The main thing if you are thinking about buying is to first look underneath to inspect the condition of the unibody subframes. Has it been sitting outside or in a garage for the past 8 years? If you post some photos, i guarantee that folks on this board will able to answer your questions better. As far as data plates, there are three plates depending on the series of mutt you have. The main data plate is either mounted to the left of the steering column or on the right side of the dash if your vehicle has the roll over protection (ROPS) installed. A 2nd plate is usually mounted on the rear fenders behind the seats. It is a weight and dimensions plate. Now if you have a M151, M151-A1, or eariler A-2 a 3rd plate which is a BUDD tag is mounted in the engine compartment centered on the firewall. Hope this helps.

[TrustyMUTT]

Thank you both for the replies. I was in the process of reviewing the manuals as the replies came in. I have a physical copy of the -10 Operator's Manual but what I was really looking for, and found, were the -20 and -34 maintenance manuals. I will do my best to get a picture of the thing posted ASAP.

Cobra, I am not looking into buying it and it has been stored in a barn since it quit running. It is equipped with the ROPS, but does not have any of the ID tags in the places you listed. My friend ran into this issue when trying to register it without any sort of VIN. Sorry for taking this a bit off topic, but I've heard that there is a place where you can order a set of ID tags for these things. With a set of those and a 'bill of sale' is there a possibility that we can get this thing tagged for legal on-road use.

Back on track, the manuals seem to have every procedure that I'll need to perform but what I was looking for was the general feeling on where to start. Does my list make sense to tackle sequentially? Thanks again!

~Alex

[Floyd]

Alex: Go back to the portal and get into the Wiki. You should be able to narrow down the varient from their. As far as your list goes I'm not the ace mech and I dare not say if it's good or bad. Never the less, sounds ok ta me. Aside from changing the plug wires you gotta start somewhere. Those items have to be done at some point.

Floyd

[Cobra5]

1. Ensure engine isn't seized. --What is the easiest way to spin the crankshaft?
2. Replace/Charge Batteries
3. Drain Fuel and Change Filter(s)
4. Check Compression - turning over engine with starter; fuel line disconnected from carb
5. Oil/Filter Change
6. Replace Spark Plugs and or wires - Correct type/gap?
7. Check rest of ignition system
8. Clean/Inspect air cleaner

1. The most important would be to ensure your engine isn't seized. The best way to do this is to pull all the plugs, squirt some marvels mystery oil down the cylinders and let it soak overnight. You are doing this because it has sat so long and I'm sure the piston rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. Get a socket that fits on the harmoic balancer and work it back and forth until it feels like it will spin. It's a real PITA to get a socket in there because of the radiator but it can be done.
2. Go ahead and do you compression test next since you already have your spark plugs out. This will tell you if your looking at a rebuild.
3. If it sat with fuel in the tank your going to need to drain and clean your tank, and all the fuel lines. Clean the fuel filter in the tank and the filters going to the carb.Also plan on rebuilding the carb and clean and reservice the air filter at this time.
4. Wire brush the spark plugs to clean them. You can replace them later after you get it running. Also clean the spark plug wires with a wire brush if they are corroded. We use these same type of wires on the R3350 radial engines I work on. If you have a continuity tester, do an ohms test on the wire. Bend and twist it and you shouldn't get more than 5 ohms.
5. Remove the distibutor cap and use emery cloth to clean the contact on the cap and the rotor. I'm assuming you have an electronic ignition.
6. Check you wiring harness to ensure no critters chewed up the wires while it was sitting.
7. Install good batteries and see if she will turn over.
8. Assuming she spins over, now you can change the oil and filter.
9. I would do a full lube job on all the zerk fittings, i.e. front end, drive shafts, half shafts, etc.
10. Drain and reservice the differentials and the transfer case.
11. Check your brake system. Don't assume they will work.

This should get you started. Good luck.

[Rainman]

Hey Alex,
This topic got me thinkin, and what I would find important if I was a buyer, is different than if I was just helping a friend to get one running again. As Floyd mentioned, if your a buyer the engine is not your priority, the uni-body is. The engine and mechanicals can be purchased and replaced with a little work and a reasonable wallet, whereas the uni-body as the foundation of the project should be sound or at least repairable from the very beginning.
Now, to help a friend since it's not your project the uni-body takes a back seat. You should advise your friend based on the condition of the uni-body if it is even worth his time and yours to continue, but your priority switches to the mechanics. As Cobra advised, the manual section is your new best friend. Nearly all the members here are more than happy to assist and advise, even if the information is located in the manuals or has been discussed in a previous thread. Some discussion groups will give the FNG the old "RTFM", but as an owners club we take a much more personal approach, and help fellow members even if the same question has been answered recently.
I suspect your offer to assist your friend will eventually result in your personal desire to own an M151 all your own. When that OD fever strikes, keep your priorities straight and look for a good foundation to build on. Till then, we will try to make you appear a master M151 mechanic to your friend that owns this one.
Rainman

[TrustyMUTT]

Well I got a chance to tear into the MUTT last night and not all was bad. The worst news was that the water pump (stamped 8754598) seems to be shot. This is after we got the engine to turn over, which didn't seem stuck in the slightest. However as soon as the pulley for the water pump started to spin, I heard a little pop noise and then coolant started running out the weep hole.

We pulled off the carb (Zenith Carb No. 13660 Ordinance No. 11681709) and fuel tank and cleaned out the latter. How do you clean the fuel filter inside the tank; compressed air, solvent, clean gas? For the compression check, am I better off cranking the engine with the starter once we get some good batteries in it? I put the gauge on it last night and only could get around 40 to 50 lbs spinning the crank with a wrench. What should be expect from a healthy engine aside from being within 10 or so % of one another?

We pulled the grill, radiator and got the water pump out. It seems so spin fine but I suspect that some seal is shot and that's why it started leaking. Sorry if I am all over the place here, I'm trying to put this in as logical of an order of possible.

The big question of the day: What is the best way to source parts for the M151? Here is our list (so far): water pump, carb rebuild kit, plugs, intake fuel filter, oil and filter.

We did run into an ID plate on the drivers side of the engine. What if any info can we gleam from this data? Here is what we took from it:
Serial Number 104620
Ord. Part 8754411
Cont num da-20-113-amc-02787(t)

We will dig into the ignition system next time. I am unsure of what type of system it has as of now. What i do know is that we need four new spark plugs and a very deep well socket to install them. I do have a digital multimeter that I will use to test the resistance of the plug wires. They look OK, but I know that a more quantitative test is needed to ensure a healthy spark.

Thank you all again for your replies. I know how some forums can be with the FNG so your patience is much appreciated!
~Alex

P.S. Is it unholy to have a baby blue MUTT? I hope not because I don't foresee us repainting this one!

[moose53]

Thank you both for the replies. I was in the process of reviewing the manuals as the replies came in. I have a physical copy of the -10 Operator's Manual but what I was really looking for, and found, were the -20 and -34 maintenance manuals. I will do my best to get a picture of the thing posted ASAP.

Cobra, I am not looking into buying it and it has been stored in a barn since it quit running. It is equipped with the ROPS, but does not have any of the ID tags in the places you listed. My friend ran into this issue when trying to register it without any sort of VIN. Sorry for taking this a bit off topic, but I've heard that there is a place where you can order a set of ID tags for these things. With a set of those and a 'bill of sale' is there a possibility that we can get this thing tagged for legal on-road use.

Back on track, the manuals seem to have every procedure that I'll need to perform but what I was looking for was the general feeling on where to start. Does my list make sense to tackle sequentially? Thanks again!

~Alex

Maybe I can help some with the vin issue.

Unfortunately, the only place the vin was marked was on the dataplate attached to the dashboard. However all hope is not lost. This would be easier if we had pictures of the jeep, but I'll go ahead with some assumptions since you say it had rops.

We can always revise if it turns out you have something else. Most likely you have a early to mid 70's A2 made by AMG since they made the majority of the A2's. You need some kind of vin to register it so heres how to possibly reconstruct it. My jeep is a 71 A2, the military reg# is 02LJ3471-39475. That is the vin for the vehicle. the first part is also what they call the hood number. Look on your friends jeep, on the transmission tunnel, about where your right ankle would be, hidden behind the fuel line should be a small plate. Its probably painted over so if you cant read it use great care in removing the paint because these tags were only lightly stamped. If you try sanding it off the numbers will go too and you'll be stuck. What you'll find on the plate are a long number which is the body tub part number, the series code (most likely either B151 or C151) and a five digit sequence number. This sequence number is the last five numbers on the vin. Now, during that time period, all mutt vins started with 02 since that was a code for 1/4 ton truck. then came the 4 character unique id, then the year of manufacture. If you look at the 24v horn, there is a tag on the base of it, (probably also under several coats of paint) that has the year the horn was made. this usually matches the year of the jeep. So now you have everything but the 4 character id part of the vin. If you contact Ken (Muttguru) here with that info, he keeps a mutt database and may be able to help you estimate the rest of the vin. having that you can get a blank dataplate and stamp the appropriate info on it. Once you've done that it is a simple matter to use a title service to get it registered with this data and your bill of sale. Not for the faint of heart, but if they didn't strip the old paint before painting it blue you may be able to sand the sides of the hood down a few layers and find the hood number painted there as well. If it had been painted camo the hood number was also painted on the dashboard on the passenger side. If this jeep turns out to be a late model AMG though (with emissions controls) this may not apply since there was a different numbering system in the late 70's. Post some pics, include under the hood and we can narrow it down quite a bit.

Jim

[moose53]

okay I see you posted some pics while I was typing my last post. What you have there is an A1 so the body tag info doesnt apply. the tag on the A1 should have been centered on the firewall near the top edge. if it is missing then there's little to work from. it looks like this:



Jim

[Floyd]

Alex: That looks like Bubbas roll system and not the true ROPS. If you need parts you can always try e-Pay, type in M151 and voila. You can also go back to the portal and look under "resources" you'll be amazed at what you find.

Floyd

[Jeep1967]

I would say it depends on what you intend to do with it. If you plan to drive it and work out the problems then ofcourse start by getting it running. Most of that will be determined by what you want to repair and what you simply want to parts replace. You will find that you may run into a lot of time and money but it is worth it most times to fix it up as a project or as another vehicle for you. I have rebuilt mine completley and stick to about one project a year when I get some exrtra time. Currently I have to deal with a brekdown then I deploy fpr another year. My next project though will be breaks and bearings barring any unforseen problems. I would like to get the frame sprayed with oil as a undercoatong but I have yet to take on that messy job but I need to get to that as well. I will see howe this problem with my timiong goes then decide what is next. That is the way I rebuilt the whole deal though I would isolate to one project at a time ane then decide how much I wanted to spend against how much time I have. Three rules will apply here good fast and cheap. The proble is you only get two so if you want it good and fast you will spend a bit more. If you want to tinker for some time it will usually save you money while you look around for replacement parts and rebuild items. My thoughts anyways good luck.

[rickf]

What you have is an A1 with a CJ-7 roll bar in it. I just got in from a long camping weekend and I am headed to bed but the idea of spraying the frame with oil!? Not a good idea from many different angles. First and foremost is the environmental issues of dripping oil everywhere and if you ford a stream then what? Second is once you do that you will never get paint to stick anywhere near any of those areas. I will be on in the next cople of daysas I play catch up and toss in some pointers.


Rick

[Rainman]

Hey Alex,
There ya go, Rick is on the case and will be of utmost assistance. The rest of us here are mechanical amateurs in comparison. Not sure if I see an early 151 with turn signals, or an A1 with a flat top air cleaner. More pictures will tell the tale, and I'm on a laptop with poor visuals.
So far, your "needs list" is all available NOS via mail order parts suppliers or ebay. Some will be available through members here and local parts shops.
I think on the compression your looking for around 90, but that can change with oil added to the cylinders, Rick can give you all the answers when he's rested from all the food he ate down at Cabel Garby's place.
Rainman

[Ralph Fuller]

Alex: Data plates are available on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BLANK-SERIAL-PLATE- ... 286.c0.m14