again carb problems

muttero · Unread post by **muttero** » March 14th, 2010, 1:02 pm

Hi all,

Have replace the diafragm and the gaskets of the zenit of my A2, because the engine didn't start cold, neither with choke. Now it does start, but it does not work properly, a lot of smoke, and a lot of shots, and the jeep does not run.... Have been looking to regulate the air , but no way. It does not have the return line, it has a bolt where the return line should be. I can't understand why it does not work as previously, as I didn't change the configuration of the carb, I just replace the rubber parts, and before that it did run well....

Regards

halftracknut · Unread post by **halftracknut** » March 14th, 2010, 2:54 pm

Is the spring on the correct side of orange dia. ?

70mford151a2 · Unread post by **70mford151a2** » March 14th, 2010, 8:41 pm

Don't feel bad I've rebuilt my entire carb and it ran great, then the swiss electronic ign. went- so I put in my distributor with the

points,got it all adjusted, it has a strong spark

but it hasn't started since. I don't know why..... but it ain't ign., timming or valve related so it sits, looking pissed,,,,,, cuz I can't

fiqure it out

and can't afford to pay any one to fix it. but I do pray something will change. did put in new batteries today in anticipation that

one day it will run again. so you see my friend you are not alone good luck talk to RickF

toptiger · Unread post by **toptiger** » March 15th, 2010, 4:52 am

One thing that you might consider is your gasoline. The antique car dealer in town had that same thing happen to his cars- everything right timing, plugs, cleaned and rebuilt carbs etc....but wouldn't run. The gas was the problem, today's gas, at least the types delivered to central florida goes bad in 3 months, that was his experience- the dealer now only puts in 2/3 gallons of 100 LL aviation fuel, not regular which has +-10% alcohol in it. Try running a direct line with fresh gas and see. Won't hurt, cheap to try and is easy to do.
I had to have a guy come to my boat house and pump out 40 gallons of gas which was put in my Chris Craft last summer, all gone bad.It smelled ok but was orange and wouldn't fire. My other modern boat had Stabil Marine anti ethanol additive in the gas and it is ok. But from now on only av gas in my older stuff.

muttero · Unread post by **muttero** » March 15th, 2010, 7:47 am

Hi again,

Halftracknut, is it possible to mount it on the wrong side? I can´t answer this question, because I didn´t rebuilt the carb, as I do not know mechanics, I have a cuban guy doing it, I will ask him about this.

Top Tiger, don´t think about a petrol problem, I am in Spain, and the jeep has the same petrol thatn it has before the carb rebuild, and then it runs good...... but will put more new fresh petrol in the tank as it is almost void........

All these recomendations help, as provides me with some alternatives to check. on the other hand, I have been looking for a manual which describes the procedure to adjust the carb, and not much found yet, about how to regulate the butterfly of the intake air, the idle, and all the things that the carb has, any recommendation on that??

thanks for the help....

Regards

Unread post by **rickf** » March 15th, 2010, 10:00 am

The accelerator pump spring should be on the same side as the cover, against the cover. Also the float level is critical in these, the setting is 9/32".

Rick

70mford151a2 · Unread post by **70mford151a2** » March 15th, 2010, 10:05 pm

"Re: again carb problems
by toptiger on March 15th, 2010, 4:52 am

One thing that you might consider is your gasoline. The antique car dealer in town had that same thing happen to his cars- everything right timing, plugs, cleaned and rebuilt carbs etc....but wouldn't run. The gas was the problem, today's gas, at least the types delivered to central florida goes bad in 3 months, that was his experience- the dealer now only puts in 2/3 gallons of 100 LL aviation fuel, not regular which has +-10% alcohol in it. Try running a direct line with fresh gas and see. Won't hurt, cheap to try and is easy to do.
I had to have a guy come to my boat house and pump out 40 gallons of gas which was put in my Chris Craft last summer, all gone bad.It smelled ok but was orange and wouldn't fire. My other modern boat had Stabil Marine anti ethanol additive in the gas and it is ok. But from now on only av gas in my older stuff."

--could be although it runs my lawn mower fine I am slowly using it up, it has easily been 6 mos since it ran right, but the problems started when the gas was new, that was when the fairly new swiss unit shorted out*- changed back to the points unit have a good spark but it is the the same gas , boy that would be my luck- well I installed new batteries and I noticed a small little spark when I connected the last terminal- I realize this means a short somewhere so before I really spend the time looking for a short I'm looking to put one of those battery cut off switches. I can't wait to drive it, it's been awhile

* I'm sure it was self inflicted stupidity, Rick, wouldn't the points suffice since I probably put less then 200 miles on it in a year

and I can change and adjust points with out any fear, even test em to see if they work and if not why unlike the solid state ones

aren't points good enough, not to mention they are Cheap

Angkor · Unread post by **Angkor** » June 3rd, 2010, 3:56 pm

I've had persistent problems with the Zenith carb on my A2. I'm on my second Zenith. The float keeps getting stuck, resulting in a total inability to fire up. My jeep sits dead as a doornail as I write this. Since I lack expertise in adjusting and re-building carbs, I have my mechanic do it. But this Zenith problem never goes away. I'm inclined to shell out the money for an OEM carb.

BTW, does anyone know if the Zenith carb manual is available online?

Angkor · Unread post by **Angkor** » June 8th, 2010, 10:08 pm

I had constant issues with my Zenith carb until I went to the manual and reconfigured the fuel lines exactly back to the original configuration. This engine and the carb need a complete loop (with butterfly valve switch) back into the tank for fuel run-off. Otherwise, the carb floods or isn't able to process the fuel efficiently. I still have problems with the Zenith, but not related to the fuel line.

Rainman · Unread post by **Rainman** » June 8th, 2010, 10:31 pm

Hey Angkor,
Most often the problems we all have are very basic, almost stupid problems. Much like "My computer doesn't work", and your asked if it's plugged into the electric socket. Routing of a fuel line is so basic, almost nobody thinks to ask.

Get beyond that and Rick and The MuttGuru, will be of great assistance. The rest of us here are just students, repeating what we have learned from "The Masters".

Rainman

Unread post by **rickf** » June 9th, 2010, 7:17 am

Angkor wrote:I had constant issues with my Zenith carb until I went to the manual and reconfigured the fuel lines exactly back to the original configuration. This engine and the carb need a complete loop (with butterfly valve switch) back into the tank for fuel run-off. Otherwise, the carb floods or isn't able to process the fuel efficiently. I still have problems with the Zenith, but not related to the fuel line.

I am a little confused about the butterfly valve switch?

These vehicles are no different than any other in relation to fuel supply. On the 151 and the A1 there was not fuel return to the tank and on the A2 the purpose of the return is to prevent vapor lock. They will run fine without the return line. You do have to make sure the vent line to the tank is open so the tank can get air in to prevent a vacuum, that line goes to the air cleaner from the tank.

Rick