I built the coin chute today. Used my sheet metal brake (admittedly a little out of adjustment) to achieve this piece, which is the basis for the chute.
What I was looking for was the noise of the coin going into the machine and dropping into the coin bucket so the chute was going to be of a relatively thin metal so that a nickel put into the machine would produce three sounds -
TINK (coin hits the chute)
ROLL-ROLL-ROLL (coin moving down the chute may not necessarily be heard through the plywood)
TANK (coin hitting the bottom of the coin bucket
If I get two out of three I'll be satisfied.
Here is the inside of the chute where the coin will be, oriented so you can see where it will be located on the INSIDE of the cabinet.
Here's where it will be mounted. Large vertical panel keeps the coin from over-running the chute when inserted.
Did some detail work on the Gama Goat's gun mount and even had enough energy left to go to the grocery and then make Italian meatballs for tomorrow's dinner.
There's always a lot going on at the Beverly Hillbillies!!
Cheers,
TJ
Beverly Hillbillies
Moderators: rickf, raymond, Mr. Recovery
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
(click on the photo to enlarge and orient properly)
Victory today, getting the locating and cutting of the coin slot. Many opportunities for that iteration to go all pear shaped but with some care, everything went well.
This began with drilling a very small hole which was representative of the geographic center of the slot so that I could know, from the inside, precisely where it would be, then creating a relieved area on the inside of the cabinet beneath the coin slot so that the coin will fall as naturally as possible rather than tumbling off the edge of the plywood panel into the chute. Since the plywood is 5/8" I didn't want the coin to just lay on top of it and be stalled behind the slot.
To achieve that I made a series of stepped cuts with a 1-3/8" diameter Forstner bit; the first was the deepest plunge (at the slot), then slightly less deep below that and then one more even less deep than the others, it being the lowest of the three. These created an area through which the coin would drop, unobstructed.
Then I cut the actual slot and sloped the bottom of it downward with a Dremel tool, which always does a nice job when one is trying to make wood take a very specific shape. Now, when a coin is inserted it actually drops quite well and heads straight for the coin box.
This belt buckle coin slot was a really good move. I'm very pleased with it.
I threw the back door on without much fanfare, using the freebie screen door spring-hinges I got. They don't have a properly aged look but, WOW, they do complain a little bit...which I dig because we're going for the old school vibe and they sound like they've been around a while; all squeaky and creaky.
Anyway, as far as looks are concerned, what goes on behind the scenes STAYS behind the scenes.
Cheers,
TJ
Victory today, getting the locating and cutting of the coin slot. Many opportunities for that iteration to go all pear shaped but with some care, everything went well.
This began with drilling a very small hole which was representative of the geographic center of the slot so that I could know, from the inside, precisely where it would be, then creating a relieved area on the inside of the cabinet beneath the coin slot so that the coin will fall as naturally as possible rather than tumbling off the edge of the plywood panel into the chute. Since the plywood is 5/8" I didn't want the coin to just lay on top of it and be stalled behind the slot.
To achieve that I made a series of stepped cuts with a 1-3/8" diameter Forstner bit; the first was the deepest plunge (at the slot), then slightly less deep below that and then one more even less deep than the others, it being the lowest of the three. These created an area through which the coin would drop, unobstructed.
Then I cut the actual slot and sloped the bottom of it downward with a Dremel tool, which always does a nice job when one is trying to make wood take a very specific shape. Now, when a coin is inserted it actually drops quite well and heads straight for the coin box.
This belt buckle coin slot was a really good move. I'm very pleased with it.
I threw the back door on without much fanfare, using the freebie screen door spring-hinges I got. They don't have a properly aged look but, WOW, they do complain a little bit...which I dig because we're going for the old school vibe and they sound like they've been around a while; all squeaky and creaky.
Anyway, as far as looks are concerned, what goes on behind the scenes STAYS behind the scenes.
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
A tiny bit of progress. Coin Slot has been drilled, countersunk for the oval head screws. Phillips is not correct for an old school look so, I'll be pawing through my screws, looking for replacements. That should be fun. 
The signs are now officially attached to the top cap with two bolts. They are removable.
Cheers,
TJ
The signs are now officially attached to the top cap with two bolts. They are removable.
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Once again, dividing myself between projects. So everything is moving like molasses in January. Yesterday was a little bit of everything including, Fortune Teller Cabinet, Gama Goat, yard work, breaking into the safe and making new sections for the creepy fence that I put up right around Halloween. I may not be putting it up this year cause I have too much on my plate but having the new sections assembled is something I'd like to have off my To-Do List.
Working alone requires a certain level of creativity. My virtual assistant - a twisty...
Base coat is applied to the cabinet. All the trim and embellishments will be gold/bronze from a rattle can. Large flat panels will be a deep crimson. At least that's the plan at the moment.
I used Behr paint/primer in a rattle can for this base coat. I was rather dubious as to their claim that it would go straight on unfinished wood. But a test application on a some scrap yielded excellent results.
This is not fine cabinetry. Vintage vending cabinets are filled with imperfections with a lot of corner-cutting. Reinforcements were almost invariably created from scrap pieces. I was happy to follow that method as it just made things so much easier not having to worry about absolute perfection.
Large flat areas on the face of the cabinet will be color panels and that paint will be applied with a brush. I want brush strokes in those areas. Again, that sort of imperfection lends credibility to the build, helping the new cabinet appear to be somewhat older. I was considering using the process that leaves the paint cracked but as interesting as that is, it's just something we modern folk cooked up.
Top cover, inverted.
The unpainted areas of the interior will be hidden from view, so...no paint!
It takes on quite a different look in a uniform color, doesn't it?
Cheers,
TJ
Working alone requires a certain level of creativity. My virtual assistant - a twisty...
Base coat is applied to the cabinet. All the trim and embellishments will be gold/bronze from a rattle can. Large flat panels will be a deep crimson. At least that's the plan at the moment.
I used Behr paint/primer in a rattle can for this base coat. I was rather dubious as to their claim that it would go straight on unfinished wood. But a test application on a some scrap yielded excellent results.
This is not fine cabinetry. Vintage vending cabinets are filled with imperfections with a lot of corner-cutting. Reinforcements were almost invariably created from scrap pieces. I was happy to follow that method as it just made things so much easier not having to worry about absolute perfection.
Large flat areas on the face of the cabinet will be color panels and that paint will be applied with a brush. I want brush strokes in those areas. Again, that sort of imperfection lends credibility to the build, helping the new cabinet appear to be somewhat older. I was considering using the process that leaves the paint cracked but as interesting as that is, it's just something we modern folk cooked up.
Top cover, inverted.
The unpainted areas of the interior will be hidden from view, so...no paint!
It takes on quite a different look in a uniform color, doesn't it?
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Well, I think I briefly mentioned efforts to break into the safe but provided no proof so without further ado, here she is...
The back panel (just a simple plate of mild steel) was simply welded into place against the corner structures at about 8-10 places on the long sides and about half that at the top and the bottom. This safe had been laying on its back so long that the water had seeped into the fire-proofing and one freeze or another had popped some of the welds but most had to be cut and that didn't take long at all.
The fireproofing is still soaked with water and comes off in chunky bits. A layer of chicken wire still provides the means of keeping everything together so those get cut as they are exposed and some of the chunks are really quite large. Gravity is our friend.
As the fireproofing is removed, the interior back panel is exposed. All this has been a terrible burden on my back so there are days of recuperation between efforts. But, we are nearly in there and it's just kind of fun taking it slow and arousing the curiosity of the people who know what we are up to. Personally, I have no expectations. The whole thing is just a pleasant distraction.
Back to the creepy fence project - Having cut my pieces and having de-burred them I set about assembling everything. Litter racks make excellent saw horses and I never pass up a set when I find them being offered for sale.
What you are looking at is part of one vertical corner section of a Chinese-made gazebo (Hampton Bay, or other) of the sort available at all the big box home improvement stores. Two of these vertical corner sections are joined in an 'L' shape to form each corner of a gazebo so, each gazebo kit would yield eight of these sections. Each section gets its top and bottom trimmed off. Other pieces of the gazebo are joined to form a long strongback, one high and one low, to which the sections are attached.
With that done, other salvaged bits get cut to fit, such as these swales which are located in such a way that they sort of create a visual of a wave pattern across the top when located between the bows on the sectionals.
And here is where I get into big trouble. I was taking measurements off the other sections of fence I created in the same way, many years ago. What I failed to do was take precise measurements and compare the old gazebo sections to the latest acquisition. I assumed... Guilty as charged. The end result was certain much-needed vertical pieces got cut too short.
So, it was off to Metal Mart and there I grabbed two 24' sticks of 3/4" square steel tubing. Wham. Bam. Thank You, Ma'am! Back in business. That little faux pas cost me $24. Grrr! But, what one gets for the money, time, and effort is a pretty presentable fence section that is steel, yet weighs very little and one that can be stored out of doors because the older, uglier and rustier it gets, the more legit it looks. So one gazebo kit yields two 9' sections of fence that look great at Halloween..and with what I am assembling here, I'll have four of these (and an attached archway with metal gates).
These new sections of fence will begin their lives with a coat of flat black paint and a light dusting of brown and orange (which gives the suggestion of rust)...
And here we have my very own Ugly Truck Contest. Hard to say which is more homely, eh?
Cheers,
TJ
The back panel (just a simple plate of mild steel) was simply welded into place against the corner structures at about 8-10 places on the long sides and about half that at the top and the bottom. This safe had been laying on its back so long that the water had seeped into the fire-proofing and one freeze or another had popped some of the welds but most had to be cut and that didn't take long at all.
The fireproofing is still soaked with water and comes off in chunky bits. A layer of chicken wire still provides the means of keeping everything together so those get cut as they are exposed and some of the chunks are really quite large. Gravity is our friend.
As the fireproofing is removed, the interior back panel is exposed. All this has been a terrible burden on my back so there are days of recuperation between efforts. But, we are nearly in there and it's just kind of fun taking it slow and arousing the curiosity of the people who know what we are up to. Personally, I have no expectations. The whole thing is just a pleasant distraction.
Back to the creepy fence project - Having cut my pieces and having de-burred them I set about assembling everything. Litter racks make excellent saw horses and I never pass up a set when I find them being offered for sale.
What you are looking at is part of one vertical corner section of a Chinese-made gazebo (Hampton Bay, or other) of the sort available at all the big box home improvement stores. Two of these vertical corner sections are joined in an 'L' shape to form each corner of a gazebo so, each gazebo kit would yield eight of these sections. Each section gets its top and bottom trimmed off. Other pieces of the gazebo are joined to form a long strongback, one high and one low, to which the sections are attached.
With that done, other salvaged bits get cut to fit, such as these swales which are located in such a way that they sort of create a visual of a wave pattern across the top when located between the bows on the sectionals.
And here is where I get into big trouble. I was taking measurements off the other sections of fence I created in the same way, many years ago. What I failed to do was take precise measurements and compare the old gazebo sections to the latest acquisition. I assumed... Guilty as charged. The end result was certain much-needed vertical pieces got cut too short.
So, it was off to Metal Mart and there I grabbed two 24' sticks of 3/4" square steel tubing. Wham. Bam. Thank You, Ma'am! Back in business. That little faux pas cost me $24. Grrr! But, what one gets for the money, time, and effort is a pretty presentable fence section that is steel, yet weighs very little and one that can be stored out of doors because the older, uglier and rustier it gets, the more legit it looks. So one gazebo kit yields two 9' sections of fence that look great at Halloween..and with what I am assembling here, I'll have four of these (and an attached archway with metal gates).
These new sections of fence will begin their lives with a coat of flat black paint and a light dusting of brown and orange (which gives the suggestion of rust)...
And here we have my very own Ugly Truck Contest. Hard to say which is more homely, eh?
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
So what is all this fencing for?
So glad you asked. Here's a Halloween retrospective from 2017...
Scary in the daytime!
But add some creepy lighting at night and things just kinda jump out at you!
Cheers,
TJ
So glad you asked. Here's a Halloween retrospective from 2017...
Scary in the daytime!
But add some creepy lighting at night and things just kinda jump out at you!
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
I don't want to be an alarmist but if that safe is from the 60's or earlier and it most certainly is, I can pretty much guarantee that insulation is 100% asbestos! Keep it wet and do NOT do anything to pulverize it or get it airborne!!! Keep it wet and quietly put it in small chunks in double trash bags mixed in with your other household waste out with the trash. For once I am not joking around!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Already on the matter. Once the back panel is disposed of that's about as far as we're gonna go. My buddy brought over a circular saw and I told him the same. No way, Jose!
Mica, Asbestos, and all the worst parts of the Bible are mixed into that stuff.
We breathed in all the same kinda stuff (and worse) in Afghanistan...for FOUR years. My pulmonologist says my lungs look like the surface of the moon. No one is immune to that kinda stuff.
Anyway, we're aware of it. Using a large electric rock hammer/chisel thingy that makes short work of it. Separating it out into big chunky bits.
Cheers,
TJ
Mica, Asbestos, and all the worst parts of the Bible are mixed into that stuff.
We breathed in all the same kinda stuff (and worse) in Afghanistan...for FOUR years. My pulmonologist says my lungs look like the surface of the moon. No one is immune to that kinda stuff.Anyway, we're aware of it. Using a large electric rock hammer/chisel thingy that makes short work of it. Separating it out into big chunky bits.
Cheers,
TJ
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Hit the estate sale of a Korean War vet on Saturday. He had a nice library so I picked up a few good books.
I thought more about what I didn't buy and so, returned on Sunday. The nice ladies there told me to take them ALL if I wanted them (for FREE!) and provided me with the Rubbermaid containers to do it. Well, that didn't do my back any favors but by golly I got 'em!
Not for me, by the way. I have a few worthy recipients in mind for this small mountain of books.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I've put the finishing touches on the first fence section.
No, not THAT!
THIS!
Remember, we want to make it look old. Paint begins with Flat Brown (simulates old rust). Followed by Cinnamon (an orange that nicely simulates active rust). Overcoated in Flat Black with only a dusting of the black, over the orange to tone it down. Up close it looks totally bogus but stand back a few feet and your eyes and brain will see what they want to see - a rusty old iron fence....which is actually a repurposed, cheap, Chinese steel gazebo. Pretty tricksy, don't ya think?
Stone, or Fleck Stone paint provides a textured surface. When top coated with paint, it makes things look like there is corrosion going on on this fence. Your eye won't catch it but your brain will. These simple touches really add to the legitimacy of the piece. It's all bogus of course but, that's Hollywood!
Cheers,
TJ
I thought more about what I didn't buy and so, returned on Sunday. The nice ladies there told me to take them ALL if I wanted them (for FREE!) and provided me with the Rubbermaid containers to do it. Well, that didn't do my back any favors but by golly I got 'em!
Not for me, by the way. I have a few worthy recipients in mind for this small mountain of books.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I've put the finishing touches on the first fence section.
No, not THAT!
THIS!
Remember, we want to make it look old. Paint begins with Flat Brown (simulates old rust). Followed by Cinnamon (an orange that nicely simulates active rust). Overcoated in Flat Black with only a dusting of the black, over the orange to tone it down. Up close it looks totally bogus but stand back a few feet and your eyes and brain will see what they want to see - a rusty old iron fence....which is actually a repurposed, cheap, Chinese steel gazebo. Pretty tricksy, don't ya think?
Stone, or Fleck Stone paint provides a textured surface. When top coated with paint, it makes things look like there is corrosion going on on this fence. Your eye won't catch it but your brain will. These simple touches really add to the legitimacy of the piece. It's all bogus of course but, that's Hollywood!
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Got my voting out of the way and now I feel I can rightfully ignore the mayhem that's going on and focus my efforts on all the other projects I have at hand. Feels real good to have done it.
Last night I visited the center of the MOPAR universe (right here in Boerne...who wudda thunk it!?).
One of the owners has a penchant for all things that come in Olive Drab and he has a rather largish pile of trucks on the premises but a limited amount of information about them. So, a friend introduced us and I got a tour of an amazing facility and I began to share with him what little I know. He's not a purist but rather, more into restomodding. This fellow has mad skills where metal fabrication is concerned. I showed him a picture of the Burma Ford and his jaw dropped.
He might be just the guy to do something with it!
On his immediate wish list are doors for the M37. Just the doors. Doesn't really need the guts. I believe he's looking for two driver doors and one passenger door. If you have such a thing for sale, PM me with your phone number and I'll make sure he gets it. He could make his own doors. I've no doubt he has the skill to do it, after seeing the Superbird hood he made!
Anyway, since I was only just introduced, I asked if I could snap one pic and then we got back to sharing information. So here's a teaser and by the way, there's another room with the cars that are a lot farther along and fellas, they are SEMA-quality stuff. I'm sure I'll have more photos to share in the future.
Cheers,
TJ
Last night I visited the center of the MOPAR universe (right here in Boerne...who wudda thunk it!?).
One of the owners has a penchant for all things that come in Olive Drab and he has a rather largish pile of trucks on the premises but a limited amount of information about them. So, a friend introduced us and I got a tour of an amazing facility and I began to share with him what little I know. He's not a purist but rather, more into restomodding. This fellow has mad skills where metal fabrication is concerned. I showed him a picture of the Burma Ford and his jaw dropped.
He might be just the guy to do something with it!On his immediate wish list are doors for the M37. Just the doors. Doesn't really need the guts. I believe he's looking for two driver doors and one passenger door. If you have such a thing for sale, PM me with your phone number and I'll make sure he gets it. He could make his own doors. I've no doubt he has the skill to do it, after seeing the Superbird hood he made!
Anyway, since I was only just introduced, I asked if I could snap one pic and then we got back to sharing information. So here's a teaser and by the way, there's another room with the cars that are a lot farther along and fellas, they are SEMA-quality stuff. I'm sure I'll have more photos to share in the future.
Cheers,
TJ
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Looks like a 70 Challenger closest to the camera, I am thinking of buying one that I maintained for a guy for years before he squirreled it away in a garage. Original 440 6 pack car.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Far left is a faux Superbird in the making. It will have an original (and actual) NASCAR motor!
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Whipped up another section of creepy "iron" fence yesterday...and have the first coating (simulated corrosion) applied. That's the off-white stuff.
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Re: Beverly Hillbillies
Man, you are working way too hard at this. Once Halloween is over sandblast that fence from varying distances and throw it in a heap in the back yard and forget about it until next Halloween! It will be all ready to go by then, no prep needed!!!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: Beverly Hillbillies
They sit outside all year long and they just get better and better.