M718A1 restoration

A place to post pics and descriptions of ongoing restoration projects

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Hambone
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Location: El Dorado, Arkansas

Re: M718A1 restoration

Post by Hambone » January 30th, 2021, 10:26 am

Must be the lighting, no wear or rust to speak of, less than 20,000 miles.

Hambone
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Joined: October 1st, 2010, 12:19 am
Location: El Dorado, Arkansas

Re: M718A1 restoration

Post by Hambone » June 10th, 2021, 5:26 pm

Back on my project after 3 months of recovering from snow damage. After further inspection of the engine, I am finding black paint under the green, now I'm thinking they sprayed the engine when they put the carc paint on it, so I'm going back with black. Also found a broken exhaust bolt, time to try my hand at screw extraction.
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rickf
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Re: M718A1 restoration

Post by rickf » June 10th, 2021, 10:00 pm

Rusty bolt means at least it is a steel bolt and not galled stainless. Small flange means light duty head so be careful. Easy outs are designed to make the stuck bolt tighter! Just look at the design and think about what a wedge does. Drill the bolt out with a left hand bit after plenty of soaking with juice. It will usually unscrew itself as you are drilling. Finding left hand bits anymore can be a challenge.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: M718A1 restoration

Post by Surveyor » June 11th, 2021, 8:08 am

Last place I got some lefties was at Lowes and they came in a blue tin. I would not recommend those.
1960 M151 Run #1
"There is one nut on a M151 that is very difficult to remove....." - K8icu
"She ain't a Cadillac and she ain't a Rolls, But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio" - Aaron Tippin
Note for 2021..... Ken...change your note....
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rickf
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Re: M718A1 restoration

Post by rickf » June 11th, 2021, 1:56 pm

I usually just start with a 1/8 inch bit and drill all the way through as straight through the center as possible and progressively go bigger on the drills. Once you just start touching the threads stop and with a small punch or chisel carefully knock the edge that is left into the hole. Once you get about a third of it done the rest usually breaks out quickly. Patience is the name of the game here. If you absolutely have to use an easy then get the splined dive in type, They do not wedge the bolt tighter as much as the tapered twist type. They are substantially more money but there is a reason for that. Once you break off a hardened easy out in the broken bolt you are screwed! You had better hope there is enough sticking out to be able to weld a nut onto and even then you are still trying to turn the easy out so at that point you try to back the easy out out of the bolt. then go back to drilling.

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1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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