1962 Ford M151 Restoration

[Refit1701]

Another work day spent straightening the driver side. It seems that whoever owned this in the past moved it with a bulldozer or was a demolition derby driver. We had to get the side straight before we could add the patch panel.

There's so much to consider when trying to make a patch match. My buddy is obsessive about it and literally spent an hour making a 2 inch square patch that had two folds in it. I don't have the patience for that.

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[Refit1701]

Two weeks later, adding the lower panel patch. We might have not done it the way others would have but it fits 99.5%. I made a conscious decision to replace as little as we could, hence not using the entire side panel. We have gotten tired of endless spotweld drilling.

The rear of the front fender flare doesn't match yet and if we can't get it right we'll use the remaining flare section from the patch panel. The rear area with the axe cutout fits very well after much work involving straightening top and bottom.

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[rickf]

An alternative to spotweld drilling is one of those little band sanders with the thin sanding band. You can sand the weld off in seconds.

This is the type I am talking about but I am just using the Harbor Freight example for the picture. I bought one of these and it was dead out of the box.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 60627.html

[Refit1701]

Interesting....

[rupert's]

I have restored my Mutt, I have filed many welding points and I recommend one of those belt sanders... with p40 sandpaper they are very useful and reach places that a radial disk does not fit.
You need an air compressor to maintain your working pressure, which is a bit high...

Here is the link if you want to take a look.. https://www.g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12936
Un saludo

[Hambone]

Looking good, a multi-disc will smooth it right out, these are nice where the vice grip clamps won't work.

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[Refit1701]

Finishing up the drivers side repairs on July 4th. There's still grinding, sanding, and minor pinhole filling to do but for the most part, the floorboard and side is done. We have to put the front crossmember cap on next.

The brackets supporting the outboard end of the seat support were mostly gone, along with the metal around them so off they came.

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New brackets where made and welded in.

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Then we started studying the level of the floor with the seat support mocked up.

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This was 10 or so hours in the shop. We had grilled hamburgers twice and did fireworks afterwards. Man, it was hot!

Next I have to sandblast the seat support before we reinstall it.

[Hambone]

Do you have the floor drain covers?

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[Refit1701]

Yes, I have an NOS set I got off of Ebay a couple years ago.

[Refit1701]

More work last Saturday. Making sure the driver's floorpan is straight and level across the welds. Mocking up the frame caps to see if everything fits. It took about three hours to acid etch, dry and self-etching primer all the parts.

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[Refit1701]

I went to Home Despot and got some 24084 mixed up to compare to the 34087 that is commonly used. I won't go into details but the color changed in the mid to late sixties from the green OD to the brown OD. I want the green OD.

I painted some of the 24084 onto an NOS tool box cover when presumably is painted with 34087. It's definitely slightly less brown.

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[ccdoran]

I don't have the access yet to view all of the photos in this thread, but I was able to see the pics on the first page. You have a nice looking jeep! I have an A2 and its interesting to see the differences.