M718A1 restoration

[rickf]

Yep that was what I was looking at. Ok, Lets return the thread to Hambones excellent restoration.

[Hambone]

Yep that was what I was looking at. Ok, Lets return the thread to Hambones excellent restoration.

Rick commented on my work??? Thanks Rick, It's been a fun project, won't have to search 10 yrs. for parts on my next project. I will keep you guys in suspense, NOT!, M715.

[rickf]

What? none of the 25-30 mini-motorcycles yet?

[rickf]

Ah yes, The 715. With the massively overpowered 230 overhead cam tornado engine with a penchant for self changing their own oil.

[Hambone]

Ah yes, The 715. With the massively overpowered 230 overhead cam tornado engine with a penchant for self changing their own oil.

Can't be any worse than that M37, remember when Dodge starting putting 20" wheels on their trucks, they did that so you could mow under them, look up the definition on dodge in the dictionary, it says " to avoid or steer clear of."

[Hambone]

Well I finally started it up, immediately noticed I had no oil pressure and fuel gauge wasn't working but only had 2 gals of gas in it, but oil pressure had my attention. Grabbed my manual oil pressure gauge and hooked it up, fired it back up, 40psi at Idle, so at that point I wasn't afraid to run it, let it idle for a while and noticed, temp gauge wasn't working, hoses warm and not running hot. Got my meter out, reached behind dash to check the ground on the mounting plate, ground was good. I have to pull the instrument panel back out, I think I may have a bad breaker on circuit #27 being all 3 gauges not working, I grounded the sender gauge wire and it didn't peg the gauge. The voltmeter is working but it's circuit #27B that feeds off the ignition switch. Good news though, all lights are working, even the horn.

[rickf]

Just check the voltage on each side of the breaker. No voltage out and there is your answer. Hopefully it is that easy. The wiring in these is as basic as it gets so can't be to bad. Unless it is a bad harness. There are only three connections on the #27 circuit, the wipers, the gauge panel through the circuit breaker and the voltmeter. Since the voltmeter is working that tells me the wire has power so I would lean towards the breaker or associated connection to it.

[Hambone]

I did have a bad breaker, I have power to the oil pressure gauge but still no reading, I've changed the sending unit and tried 2 gauges, they could be bad, Is there a proper way to check the OP gauge, should you be able to ground them out like the fuel gauge?. Also when I check continuity between #36 wire at the sending unit and #36 at gauge, I have none, ran a jumper wire from sending unit to gauge, still no luck, shouldn't I have continuity between #36 at sending unit and #36 at gauge?

[rickf]

Yes you should, You are checking it on the ohms scale aren't you? There have been many times I have gone from voltage measurements to continuity tests and forgot to change the meter. Do you have any kind of voltage reading coming out of the meter?

[Hambone]

I have new beer news , my #36 circuit is ok, after double checking I found out one of the jumper wires I was using was bad, made one piece jumper and it tests good. I have decided I have 3 bad oil pressure gauges, tested the sender unit and it ohmed out right for 40psi at idle, I have voltage into the gauge but nothing out, never know with t/o stuff, don't have a nos pressure gauge.

[rickf]

I have a few NOS gauges and quite a few T/O's. I will look today and see what I have.

[Hambone]

I have a few NOS gauges and quite a few T/O's. I will look today and see what I have.

Thanks, let me know.

[Hambone]

Thanks George, I had 3 bad gauges, rolling now.

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[Hambone]

Just need to add spare tire, litters, data plate and splint kit, maybe some of you guys can see it one day, I took my time and completed it to the best of my ability. Hambone

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[Mr. Recovery]

" I took my time and completed it to the best of my ability. Hambone"

Well, you did a mighty fine job young man!!

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