M718A1 restoration

[Hambone]

Green.

I thought you guys would just throw the answer out there??? I've seen a lot of topics on this, just no definitive answers, this is the best pic I have of the original paint.

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[rickf]

I would take a little of the paint you used on the vehicle and pick a decent spot on the valve cover and spray the new over the old in one spot and see how they blend. You could run a mask line but that tends to give a false look due to the sharp edge. Be sure to clean the valve cover first.

[Hambone]

It's not even close to 24087, best match I've seen so far is 383 or maybe a forest green.

[Mark]

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Is this the color? AJP called it green?

[rickf]

Forest green was a marine color, 34087 possibly. 383 is a CARC base color and later than 72. It is possibly that it could be 383 if it were a late replacement engine rebuild by an outside contractor but yours is not that.

[Mark]

That isn't forrest green

[D Pizzoferrato]

My 2 cents worth: I'm with Horst on Forest Green (34079). Back in the early 80s, while running pipe crews, the company I worked for did a major (2 year job) in the Goshen Ohio area (an eastern suburb of Cincinnati). As was my custom on these long term, out of town jobs, I'd find a jeep to restore in my off time. My local prize purchase was a low mile cut M151A1 that had been scab welded back together for farm us. The vehicle was low mileage and rust free prior to being cut (which was typical). Being a small community, all of the business people knew all of the business people and everyone knew everyone. As we hired local contractors as subs, you start to know the locals thru these interactions and dealings. There was a localfamily owned business that specialized in rebuilding fire fighting equipment. They had a weld shop, fab shop and body shop. They were one of the local businesses we used for our heavy welding repairs. Due to my frequent visits there for repair/welding work, it became one of the stops for a cold brew after work on many occassions. The owner agreed to let one of his guys "moonlight" on my project. The unibody was sandblasted, cut back apart, jigged up and rewelded professionally followed by body work and primer.

How does this relate to the discussion at hand? A couple of years prior, this company had a contract to sandblast and repair/repaint some form of miltary tanker trailers. This was a contract that spanned a couple of years. The US Gov supplied the paint. This was pre CARC and into the 4 color camo period. They were responsible for the base coat which was Forest Green 34079. This was a very dull IR treated paint with very high solids. I know this because they had several gallons of it left over at the time they were doing my M151. I was offered a few gallons to use on my project which I readily accepted. Over time (and as a result of the IR properties I am told), it progressively fades out. The Barstow MUTTS in desert storage, were a prime example of this progessive fade.

If you more prefer the faded out color, use this FS 595 Chip Chart http://www.fed-std-595.com/FS-595-Paint-Spec.html to determine where your color is on a descending scale of hue, saturation and reflectivity.

[12Bravo]

On the chip chart which code would be for USMC Green.? the color used in Nam and Korea.

[Mr. Recovery]

On the chip chart which code would be for USMC Green.? the color used in Nam and Korea.

To my knowledge the USMC used 24052 or 34052

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[Hambone]

Well now I have something to sleep on, I'm either going to try to match it or just go with 24087 on the block, it will be GREEN though.

[rickf]

The only place on the motor that it gets hot enough to burn the paint is the exhaust manifold and right next to the spark plugs. Everything else will be just fine. A day in the sun and the body gets a lot hotter than the engine block which stays around 180-200.

[Hambone]

I knew the clutch was stuck in this motor, now I know why, what a mess, worst one I've seen, throw out bearing was rusted to shaft, not letting tranny come out of bell housing. Had to pull the tranny and bell housing as one unit, tough one man job getting bell housing over the flywheel. Once I had it off, I decided to knock it off the shaft, don't do that, found out how easy it was to break the throw out bearing shaft. Didn't realize the shaft was made on to the input end bearing cover and why did they put flat head screws in the clutch inspection cover, twisted of two of them with the impact driver, man, what a day, glad I have some spares.

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[rickf]

That will buff right out! Wit 36 grit sandpaper and a grinder!!!! Was that engine laying in a salt marsh for a few years? Kind of interested in what the inside of the transmission and engine look like! You may not really have to worry too much about painting this one.

[Hambone]

That will buff right out! Wit 36 grit sandpaper and a grinder!!!! Was that engine laying in a salt marsh for a few years? Kind of interested in what the inside of the transmission and engine look like! You may not really have to worry too much about painting this one.

It came out of central Louisiana, when I first got it, I pulled the valve cover and scoped the cylinders, everything looked very clean, the tranny looks great inside, I drove it around a little while trying to get the clutch unstuck. You've watch the rebuild, this was the only rust on the jeep , weird how it was only in the clutch area, there wasn't a drain plug in the inspection cover either.

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[rickf]

4th gear is looking pretty rough unless that is just the lighting. If that is the case you will definitely want to tear it down and check the bearings.