Restoration of NBOER7

[m38inmaine]

Finally finished, I battled with a manual flaring tool for years and then finally 2 years ago purchased a hydraulic tool, night and day difference, a perfectly square double flare every time.

[rickf]

I have always wanted to get a hydraulic flaring tool but the fact that they look like they can't flare close to a bend or in close quarters has held me back.

[Hambone]

Looks factory, nice job.

[m38inmaine]

Thank you, the hydraulic unit works in line with the work making it actually nice, you don't have that cross bar clamp in the way, if you flare before bending short bends are not an issue, it does require a slightly longer free space to clamp, so far I have not run into any issues and have not touched the manual tool since I put it away.

[rickf]

I see you have the pricey one, I can't justify that for the amount of work I do anymore. I would probably get Eastwoods version or a cheapie from Amazon, they are the same as the one Eastwood sells. I used to think they had good tools up till the last body hammers I bought from them. Total garbage.

[m38inmaine]

It makes other things too like GM push lok, AC flares and if you bump the push lok only half way it will make a nice bulge in the line that replicates a "barb" on factory steel lines to seal rubber hose line, I think this one is a Master Cool brand.

[m38inmaine]

The repair and painting of my M1009 has taken time away from the 151 project, now that it has sold I am back on the 151. Today was going to be the day to roll out and sandblast the body, nope, it rained most of the morning so that killed that plan. Last month I picked up 2 engines, so I picked what I thought was the best one, the one missing the head that had been robbed to repair an A2 with a defective exhaust manifold. I noticed some cylinder wall staining on #2 so I was worried about a stuck ring, sure enough #2 had a stuck lower compression ring. I ball honed the bore and it looks great, the bearings and journals look perfect. I had already ordered a std. ring set and I have all the other parts on hand and thanks to Rick a cylinder head is on the way. I have the surfaces cleaned up, primed the oil pan and just need more time to get it finished.

[m3a1]

Wow, at a glance, that body looks as square as it can be. Very nice work.

[Hambone]

Looks like it's coming right along, all that hard work will be worth it in the end, that will be a quality restoration.

[m38inmaine]

Thank you, I have spend a great deal of time on the body, still a few small dents and dings that will stay but that will just give it some combat character. All 4 pistons are re-ringed and back in, the head arrived today and a second coat of paint on the oil pan, head clean up next.

[m38inmaine]

Yesterday was head cleanup and repair day, had to fix 3 snapped off manifold bolts, one still had some exposed and I was able to heat and unscrew it, the other two had to be drilled and tapped, all went smooth. The exhaust valves will need to be ground as they have some slight pitting on them but overall the head is in excellent condition.

[m38inmaine]

Oil pan installed, vales lapped and installed, re-ringed the pistons and installed, attached fuel pump, new crank seal and installed crank pulley, re-built differentials Next I will install and finish the head assembly so I can crank it over and do a compression check. Still no time or decent weather for body blasting.

[Hambone]

Nice attention to detail, do it now while you have it apart, won't have to worry about it later, was that a radio or searchlight jeep? I see the 4 belt pulley.

[m38inmaine]

I don't have a 3 groove, I ordered one from Red River but the diameter of it is larger than the original 2 groove and the 4 groove I have, it won't clear the timing pointer and it certainly won't fit the belts with it being bigger, I was going to make a post about it, I have no idea what it would fit, other than the diameter it looks correct. The 4 groove lines up fine, just has a spare groove out front.

[rickf]

The 2 belt is for the 25 amp generator and the three groove is for the A2 with the 60 amp alternator. The pulley differences are in the crank and generator pulleys, I believe the water pump pulley is the same diameter for all sets. The idea is to turn the alternator faster at idle so you get full charge at idle. All you need for the timing pointer is the later timing cover if you want the three belt 60 amp. Or if you don't really care too much about accuracy you can set you timing mark on the line with the pulley you have and then pop the pointer off the cover and swap in your three belt pully and tack weld the pointer back onto the timing cover in line with the line on the new pulley.