What opinion do you have?

[rickf]

I think the foam was more for physical protection than waterproofing. the engines would have been in a metal box in addition to the foam. Then again, thinking about it the one I got still had the remnants of a cardboard box around the foam so maybe not.

[m3a1]

I'm just going to quickly repeat something I said earlier...I believe it was in the submarine jeep thread.

If you want to know what kind of pressure is exerted on seals when submerged, take any air-filled ball and dunk it in the water. The deeper you dunk it, the higher the pressure and the harder it is to keep it under water.

Now, imagine amphibious vehicles whose hubs are 3, 4 feet or more under water while operating. Those machines are designed (as well as can be expected) for that environment.

The Gama Goat, the DUKW and many others all call for complete servicing including fluid changes after 'swimming'. I have personal experience with both examples (including restoring and swimming a DUKW) and it's just a load of work. And... when your vehicle is 50+ years old, all bets are off.

So unless you are a complete maintenance freak, such things are best left to the folks who run YouTube channels and are willing to damage or destroy things for the money and entertainment or who are running their rigs competitively (preferably with sponsors to foot the bill).

My advice (which is worth precisely what you've paid for it here) is to tippy toe around the puddles as much as is humanly possible.

Cheers,
TJ

[rupert's]

https://youtu.be/_JpFmmIE-WQ
I have already opened the set of spiders and everything seems to be fine, no teeth are missing or I have seen anything strange ... maybe a little wear on the teeth of one of the axles, but that can not cause the noise that is listen in the video of the first post.
I have to look at the pinion shaft bearing, maybe something is wrong there. Cheers

[csmith]

Happened to me, front Dif a couple years ago, replaced it with a good TO and problem solved.

[rickf]

I have watched that video many times now and it is definitely related to that one spot in the rotation. That has to be tied to the axle or side gear in the differential unless it is sound transferring through the axle from the wheel bearing. Did you try turning it without the axles in to see if it still made that sound? If so I would suspect that carrier bearing from looking at the rust pockets on the rollers. This is assuming that all the teeth are good on the ring gear and side gears. The pinion would make a much different sound and it would be 4.6 times for every revolution of the wheel. It might be less if the spiders are turning and the opposite wheel is turning backwards but it would never be every single revolution on the dot of the wheel.

[Lou]

How is the play in the U joints? Notice the noise only happens when the axle shaft is in a certain position?

[rupert's]

How is the play in the U joints? Notice the noise only happens when the axle shaft is in a certain position?

The set of U-joints is a year and a few months old, and I have also not seen the crosses rubbing anywhere, and now with the differential removed it cannot be seen. I have assumed that it is the bearing, I am going to change it to see if it is solved. Maybe I change the two output bearings.

As an anecdote... this weekend when I was riding with the mutt without the front differential, the gearbox outlet flange came off and all the gearbox oil was drained. Luckily it was standing still and nothing was broken.

[rickf]

Yes, there is nothing to hold those yokes in once the drive shaft is removed. As the oil heats up an things start to loosen up the yoke will slide right off. I had the same thing happen to me, luckily I was not too far from home and someone behind me saw it happen and flagged me down. That is definitely a very fast way to drain the transmission!

[m3a1]

Been There, Done That Achievement Badge- AWARDED!

[rupert's]

Good! In the end I have decided to change the two output bearings, I will have them at home next week. I have read the differential manual and have looked at the differential guide posted here several times. (this guide is easier to understand than the manual) Thanks to armybuck041 for posting it.

I have a little doubt:
1st I install the two bearings and the 2 tracks
2nd I approximate the adjustment crowns.
3rd I hold the output flanges and tighten the adjustment crowns a little.

I no longer have to do anything else because I only changed the output bearings. I have not touched the bearings of the crown shaft and that is why I do not have to do the "backlash configuration" is this true?

[rickf]

If you are just changing the carrier bearings then you will not have to readjust the pinion depth. You will still have to adjust the backlash but this is easily done with the threaded adjusters on the carrier bearings. If the pinion was properly set to begin with then you should be able to get a proper pattern on the gears. Set the backlash according to the manual. I don't remember the specs.

[rupert's]

It's been more time than I would like but it's done, I've changed the two output bearings and adjusted the crowns. everything seems to work fine. I have been using the car for two days on short trips and it seems to work fine.

I have also put some rubber on it to prevent the vibrations from the differential from passing to the body of the mutt, and now the rear of the car makes much less noise, I have tested it on a few km of asphalt and I do not need to speak so loudly to communicate with the companion.

The rubber is from the inner tube of a tractor wheel and I have put a piece between the differential and the body and a washer of this same rubber on the head of the screw. All this in the 3 supports of the differential.

For me this is a great advance, because I found so much noise in the rear very uncomfortable and now it seems to be solved.
All the best

[Horst]

I suggest to immediately replace the bolts holding the differential with longer ones, using a crown nut and a cotter pin. The current length of the bolt is dangerous.

[rupert's]

I suggest to immediately replace the bolts holding the differential with longer ones, using a crown nut and a cotter pin. The current length of the bolt is dangerous.

Hi Horst, thanks for your advice! I could see that the screws were a little tight in length, but they seem to be tightened tight. I will follow your advice to be calmer. All the best

[Horst]

Rupert,

one thing is the length, they other, more severe issue with the rubber installed is, the nuts have lost their self locking capabilities. Compare this to the factory set-up:

IMG_2660.jpg

Your nut and bolt combination will simply get loose quickly. That's why I am not only suggesting a longer bolt, but have a nut and bolt with a cotter pin to prevent it from getting loose. At the very least, use two nuts counter torqued.