engine
Moderators: rickf, raymond, Mr. Recovery
Re: engine
Using the A2 pulleys on the A1 25 amp generator will work but it spins the generator a little slower so it is not going to charge at idle. Once you are driving down the road it will be charging but slow engine speeds could be an issue.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: engine
Rickf! Al final hice caso de vuestros consejos y compré el alternador de 60A de A2, de este modo tengo el alternador con las poleas y correas... todo de A2 (que yo sepa)
Re: engine
No podía recordar qué vehículo o sistema tenías, así que seguí lo que estabas diciendo, pero ahora lo recuerdo. ¿Tienes el A1 con el arnés A2, correcto? Si ese es el caso, entonces sí, esto será mucho mejor en cuanto a simplificar el cableado.
I tried to do all of that from memory and I got most of it right but my Spanish spelling is WAY off! I am best off speaking English and using a translator!
I tried to do all of that from memory and I got most of it right but my Spanish spelling is WAY off! I am best off speaking English and using a translator!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: engine
rickf! Do you Know Spanish !! everything is perfectly understood but anyway I don't mind using the translator hehe although sometimes it is not very clear with the translations.rickf wrote: ↑November 13th, 2020, 8:48 pmNo podía recordar qué vehículo o sistema tenías, así que seguí lo que estabas diciendo, pero ahora lo recuerdo. ¿Tienes el A1 con el arnés A2, correcto? Si ese es el caso, entonces sí, esto será mucho mejor en cuanto a simplificar el cableado.
I tried to do all of that from memory and I got most of it right but my Spanish spelling is WAY off! I am best off speaking English and using a translator!
In response to your question ... I am restoring an A2, my engine was not repaired and I bought an A1 engine that I am converting to A2.
On the other hand, this weekend I have been cleaning the engine to paint it black, I have removed the manifolds and I have found the intake valves full of carbon, Before doing the valve adjustment they were at 0.20mm instead 040mm, I think that is why the intake valves have carbon ...
I think the most appropriate thing is that next weekend I dedicate it to lifting the cylinder head, cleaning the valves and hitting it with emery paste and reassembling everything ... What is the tightening torque that I have to give to the cylinder head bolts?
Cheers!
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Re: engine
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Horst
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
Re: engine
The heavy of the forum asks again ....
And the question is ... Here should be the water temperature sensor ... The sensor is missing and is this a plug?
I'm also thinking that being an A1 motor maybe it doesn't have a rubber connection like the rest of the wiring, but rather I have to put a cable with a terminal attached with the nut that is seen in the image. I don't know how the translator will translate this.
I have searched the internet but I always see a plug with the rubber protector
In short ... do I have something there? or should I buy the sensor?
And the question is ... Here should be the water temperature sensor ... The sensor is missing and is this a plug?
I'm also thinking that being an A1 motor maybe it doesn't have a rubber connection like the rest of the wiring, but rather I have to put a cable with a terminal attached with the nut that is seen in the image. I don't know how the translator will translate this.
I have searched the internet but I always see a plug with the rubber protector
In short ... do I have something there? or should I buy the sensor?
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Re: engine
That is the sender but the end has been broken off of it.
After enlarging the pic I see a nut on there and I am wondering if someone put a civilian sender in there? There is no threaded piece coming out past the nut so it still looks broken to me.
After enlarging the pic I see a nut on there and I am wondering if someone put a civilian sender in there? There is no threaded piece coming out past the nut so it still looks broken to me.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
- Mr. Recovery
- Brigadier General
- Posts: 2895
- Joined: December 5th, 2007, 9:03 pm
- Location: New Port Richey, Fl.
- Contact:
Re: engine
The nut and a flat washer would have held the rubber boot on the center post.
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1960 M151 Run 1
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
1963 M151 Willys DoD 10-63 in Baltimore
1989 Alley Cat. "work in Progress"
NRA Life Member
American Legion Post 275 Fl
US Army 6 years 2nd Armored Cavalry Bindlach Germany
Colorado Army Nat. Guard 5 years
Md Air Guard 15 years active duty on C-130's
Re: engine
Would have had to have held the metal connector also.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone
Re: engine
It seems that the temperature sensor is there, I have soldered the tip of the connection that was missing, I think it works because its resistance measured with the multimeter varies with the water temperature, but I have not been able to test it well because the clock on the dashboard does not works. I will have to buy a new one.
When I started to restore the mutt I didn't have any conduit and I am very busy about all the pipes that I have to put.
I'm trying to find out where I have to put the fuel return, in the images I search online I see that the return is in a nut that my carburetor has, but I can't connect anything there ... is there another way?
Let's remember ... I have an A2 but the engine is from A1 and I have converted it to A2, (alternator and pulleys) but the carburetor will be from A1.
Maybe I need this pipe?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 18111.html
or this one?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 40895.html
Greetings colleagues
When I started to restore the mutt I didn't have any conduit and I am very busy about all the pipes that I have to put.
I'm trying to find out where I have to put the fuel return, in the images I search online I see that the return is in a nut that my carburetor has, but I can't connect anything there ... is there another way?
Let's remember ... I have an A2 but the engine is from A1 and I have converted it to A2, (alternator and pulleys) but the carburetor will be from A1.
Maybe I need this pipe?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 18111.html
or this one?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 40895.html
Greetings colleagues
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Re: engine
Rupert.....
look at these two pictures and study them carefully. They are from the TM9-2320-218-20P dated 1978. If you cannot see them clearly, email me directly and I will send the pages directly to your email address.
You will need items 8, 9, 22, 23. You may also need item 15...the fuel return pipe if it is missing from your vehicle.
Item 8 is the same pipe as advertised by Truckparts Trading.... ending 8111, NOT 0895.
Ken
look at these two pictures and study them carefully. They are from the TM9-2320-218-20P dated 1978. If you cannot see them clearly, email me directly and I will send the pages directly to your email address.
You will need items 8, 9, 22, 23. You may also need item 15...the fuel return pipe if it is missing from your vehicle.
Item 8 is the same pipe as advertised by Truckparts Trading.... ending 8111, NOT 0895.
Ken
Kind regards....
Ken
Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Thanks!
Contact address - - muttguru@aol.com
Note for 2023..... Ken..."Less Stress - More Exercise!"
Ken
Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Thanks!
Contact address - - muttguru@aol.com
Note for 2023..... Ken..."Less Stress - More Exercise!"
Re: engine
Ok, I need the 8, 22 and 23 and luckily they are all on the same website but ... something does not fit me, the number 8 has a male thread at both ends, and the return pipe that is in the mutt is also male, it should be female to be threaded.muttguru wrote: ↑November 30th, 2020, 7:09 pmRupert.....
look at these two pictures and study them carefully. They are from the TM9-2320-218-20P dated 1978. If you cannot see them clearly, email me directly and I will send the pages directly to your email address.
You will need items 8, 9, 22, 23. You may also need item 15...the fuel return pipe if it is missing from your vehicle.
Item 8 is the same pipe as advertised by Truckparts Trading.... ending 8111, NOT 0895.
Ken
In this image on page 2 you can see
https://www.g838.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 18111.html
Ok, I need the 8, 22 and 23 and luckily they are all on the same website but ... something does not fit me, the number 8 has a male thread at both ends, and the return pipe that is in the mutt is also male, it should be female to be threaded.
In this image on page 2 you can see
Thanks ken for your quick reply
Re: engine
don't be surprised if part 22 does not fit on your carburetor. It is not that you can't screw it into the carb, it is that fuel will not flow. The carburetor affected is the 12848 series, any later carb can be used on A1 or A2.
The difference is that the A1 carburetor is using an internal fuel filter whereas at the same location in an A2 the return line is connected. The A2 carburetor uses an external fuel filter in front of the carburetor. Never ever screw this into the carburetor as it can split the carb body. I can see from your picture above that this was however done. You probably want to correct that and use the correct brass fitting between the filter and the carb body, part 24. The fuel filter uses a tapered thread, the brass fitting is designed for that, the carburetor body will crack. (Don't ask me how I know!)
Unfortunately in a 12848 carburetor the position of the drilling for the fuel flow is in a higher position and will be blocked once you screw in part 22.
The difference is that the A1 carburetor is using an internal fuel filter whereas at the same location in an A2 the return line is connected. The A2 carburetor uses an external fuel filter in front of the carburetor. Never ever screw this into the carburetor as it can split the carb body. I can see from your picture above that this was however done. You probably want to correct that and use the correct brass fitting between the filter and the carb body, part 24. The fuel filter uses a tapered thread, the brass fitting is designed for that, the carburetor body will crack. (Don't ask me how I know!)
Unfortunately in a 12848 carburetor the position of the drilling for the fuel flow is in a higher position and will be blocked once you screw in part 22.
Horst
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga
1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga