engine

[m3a1]

Research your work FIRST. That is what this site is all about - Making life easier. I admit, sometimes knowing what questions to ask is harder than finding the answers but I would suggest you spend a little time enjoying some of the other build-threads on the site. There's a TON of information to be gleaned from them and they're fun to read. Well, MY posts are fun to read...but I digress.

In general, if you find working on your M151 is hard, you're probably doing something the wrong way. M-series vehicles have been designed for ease of maintenance.

Cheers,
TJ

[rickf]

You can try but I don't know anyone who has tried it who has been successful. Maybe you will be the first?

[Horst]

once you removed the transmission you can also paint it black as it should be

and, by the way, with the transmission out of the vehicle, it is a good idea to adjust the braking band according to the manual. Of course you can do it with everything installed and bolted to the transmission, it is just so much easier having good access to it.

[rupert's]

In the end I did not remove the transmission, I suffered a lot but in the end the engine started, I had to loosen the hood a bit ...
I do not recommend doing it separately, it takes a long time and is more laborious, next time it will all come together. Sometimes it is better to go back to advance faster later.

Horst! The color of the transmission was green and all I have done is give it another coat of green, so it looks good, maybe if one day it comes out I will change the color.

The handbrake is a bit worn, I want to find a new band or a store that will rivet a new one.
Maybe the adjustment manual is in the forum? I have several manuals in pdf but they are exploded.

M3a1! True! I have never used a mutt or anything like that, and my car was so bad that most of the things I cannot know how they are in their correct position, this makes me have many doubts and many questions. I can't ask everything because it would be very heavy for you, just some things I think it is not necessary to ask and I look for my life to solve it myself.

For example ... The small crater under the flywheel has a thread in its lower part, but it does not have a screw, I have two pieces like this (from the two engines) and both are the same, that screw must be post to plug the hole? Or should it be open?

It's nice to enter this forum! There is movement, and good people! That few forums have it.
Greetings to all!

[rickf]

If you got the engine in with the transmission already in then you are the first person I have heard of that has done that. Congratulations. But to put it in all in one piece takes about 45 minutes, I am betting it took you a lot longer than that. The Crater under the flywheel? I am thinking you are talking about the cover under the flywheel and yes, there is a hole in the bottom and also a blank threaded spot. The blank spot is where the plug for the hole is normally stored and if you are going to ford in deep water you are "supposed" to crawl under there and move the plug to the hole to close it off and then when you are done with the deep water you are supposed to crawl under there again and move the plug back to the storage spot. Do you want to take bets how many guys actually did that? I would bet that about 98% did not! I ran my Jeep CJ in water up to the carburetor and never had issues with the clutch unless the water was very thick soupy mud. Then it would start to slip. The solution was to find some deep clean water and run into that and work the clutch in and out a few times under water to flush out the mud and good to go. One of those clutches lasted over 100,000 miles!

[Horst]

this is the plug:

IMG_9501.JPG

and that's what you are supposed to do:

IMG_9500.JPG

[rupert's]

If you got the engine in with the transmission already in then you are the first person I have heard of that has done that. Congratulations. But to put it in all in one piece takes about 45 minutes, I am betting it took you a lot longer than that. The Crater under the flywheel? I am thinking you are talking about the cover under the flywheel and yes, there is a hole in the bottom and also a blank threaded spot. The blank spot is where the plug for the hole is normally stored and if you are going to ford in deep water you are "supposed" to crawl under there and move the plug to the hole to close it off and then when you are done with the deep water you are supposed to crawl under there again and move the plug back to the storage spot. Do you want to take bets how many guys actually did that? I would bet that about 98% did not! I ran my Jeep CJ in water up to the carburetor and never had issues with the clutch unless the water was very thick soupy mud. Then it would start to slip. The solution was to find some deep clean water and run into that and work the clutch in and out a few times under water to flush out the mud and good to go. One of those clutches lasted over 100,000 miles!

So I'm the first to do it hahaha the instructions to make what is easy difficult are: 1st put the gearbox a little further back from its position, 2nd loosen the hood a bit 3rd put the engine and fit the transmissions 4th screw the fasteners .... time 4:30 approximately and a lot of effort.
ok ok now I understand the function! I also think that this hole was almost never covered before putting the car in water ...

[rupert's]

this is the plug:

IMG_9501.JPG

and that's what you are supposed to do:

IMG_9500.JPG

Hi Horst! One thing I did not understand was because the exhaust line does not have a flexible piece for vibrations, I see that you have modified it and you have added it ... my question is is it necessary or recommended?
And another pending issue... I could really use a guide for electrical connections, is there a manual? I have to connect almost all the wiring and I have many doubts, especially in the clocks, the union of the two wiring, alternator and oil and temperature. I mean, almost everything

Saludos

[svramselaar]

hi
wiring numbers

https://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php

below A1 and A2 diagram

george

[rickf]

If I remember correctly Horst was experimenting with the flex connector as a way to cut down on transmitted noise from the driveline into the interior. The muffler is clamped solid to the body so all engine noise comes up through the floor. I am sure he will chime in on this.

[Horst]

That flex hose is certainly not required. I don't remember who it was, but someone on this forum did suggest this and as it is a cheap and quickly done modification, I installed that flex hose. Without any doubt it did reduce the vibration/noise. But the 151 is still a very noisy truck, so I am not sure if I recommend it, it is probably towards the end of a list of important things.

First and foremost the transfer needs to be in good shape, otherwise this will be a major reason for a noisy jeep. There are 3 wheels in the transfer and both the top roller bearing as well as the center rollers will be loud if worn.

I think you will be realizing soon how easy pulling and installing a complete power pack is. I remove the power pack in 60 minutes and install it in 90 minutes, I am sure others are even faster.

If you just coated the transmission with paint but did not do anything else, I almost guarantee that your transmission will be leaking sitting so long. Replacing both rear seals can be done with the transmission installed, the front output seal is very difficult to remove (still possible) with everything in the jeep, the seal for the front drive shifter rod is AFAIK impossible to change in situ.

[rupert's]

That flex hose is certainly not required. I don't remember who it was, but someone on this forum did suggest this and as it is a cheap and quickly done modification, I installed that flex hose. Without any doubt it did reduce the vibration/noise. But the 151 is still a very noisy truck, so I am not sure if I recommend it, it is probably towards the end of a list of important things.

First and foremost the transfer needs to be in good shape, otherwise this will be a major reason for a noisy jeep. There are 3 wheels in the transfer and both the top roller bearing as well as the center rollers will be loud if worn.

I think you will be realizing soon how easy pulling and installing a complete power pack is. I remove the power pack in 60 minutes and install it in 90 minutes, I am sure others are even faster.

If you just coated the transmission with paint but did not do anything else, I almost guarantee that your transmission will be leaking sitting so long. Replacing both rear seals can be done with the transmission installed, the front output seal is very difficult to remove (still possible) with everything in the jeep, the seal for the front drive shifter rod is AFAIK impossible to change in situ.

I have a kit of seals for the gearbox, I bought them in case one of them leaked oil. I refilled the gearbox and waited a day, nothing came out, I painted it and mounted it ...
The real test will be seen when the car starts running, hopefully this week that I'm still on vacation I'll be able to take a little spin after 5 years dedicating about a full day a week. Only small until I have documentation.
If one day oil leaks and I have to change seals, it may be advisable to also change the bearing .... I will take that into account.

[Horst]

I don't think that was a useful test as nothing rotated and nothing got warm. But let's see, maybe you are lucky and it will just leak a little.

You are probably aware but just in case: there a standard size seals which have the same inner diameter compared to a new transmission. Replacing a leaking seal with this will only make sense if the surface of the drive shaft is in very good shape, if it is worn with grooves, changing the seal will not help. Then there are repair kits with a wear sleeve and seals with a larger inner diameter to fit to the wear sleeve which is pressed on the worn shaft.

[Mark]

I remember bolting the bell housing on the engine 1st, then bolting the transmission to the bell housing.I did it in reverse in removing the transmission.I did that way for the m38a1 jeep too

[rupert's]

I don't think that was a useful test as nothing rotated and nothing got warm. But let's see, maybe you are lucky and it will just leak a little.

You are probably aware but just in case: there a standard size seals which have the same inner diameter compared to a new transmission. Replacing a leaking seal with this will only make sense if the surface of the drive shaft is in very good shape, if it is worn with grooves, changing the seal will not help. Then there are repair kits with a wear sleeve and seals with a larger inner diameter to fit to the wear sleeve which is pressed on the worn shaft.

Hi Horst, I think what I have is a kit with a wear sleeve, I also changed all the seals with these wear sleeves on the two differentials.
I have 3 like the one in the picture