engine

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rickf
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Re: engine

Unread post by rickf » February 15th, 2021, 10:06 am

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you are never going to get that carburetor to run correctly. That mixture screw was jammed in there harder than any I have ever seen! I can't say I have ever seen one where the core is actually cracked!!! The passage plug next to that hole on the face of the carburetor flange has been replaced at some point so somebody else has had problems with it. On top of that, that thing is absolutely crusty dirty! It looks like that carburetor was run in a very dirty environment with no air cleaner for a long time. My guess would be it was on a 151 where some one never, ever serviced the air cleaner and it had no oil in it. The picture of the float? I don't know what you are trying to show but in that picture that would be a float drop setting. That should be 3/8". The most important setting is the float level setting which is 9/32" and is with the carburetor upside down and measured between the end of the float and the gasket.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » February 15th, 2021, 10:43 am

What bad news! No possibility to repair? Can't remove the cracked and fill with some material? Maybe with cold welding?
I only have the option to buy a carburetor and throw it away? :cry: :cry:

When you remove the valve cover, it has a thick black layer of grime inside, could it be that it has been running with the wrong fuel mixture?

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m75
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Re: engine

Unread post by m75 » February 15th, 2021, 12:18 pm

Yes, the carburetor needs to be replaced.

I rebuilt the Zenith that came on my M151A2, and found that a small portion of the interior casting that anchors the float swivel pin had broken off. I formed a repair using JB Weld and it seemed to be OK for the short term. I ended up sending the carb to Rick for a rebuild and he commented on the repair, saying it looked OK, but would eventually fail as the fuel would weaken the repair. He (dammit) was correct, and I could not salvage the carburetor except as a source of replacement parts. I purchased another emissions carburetor and moved on since then.

There are many sources for replacements, and the better rebuilders will use modern materials that resist the potential damage that modern fuels and their ingredients can bring.
Jim Peterson
SGM, 31B Retired 2015
1961 M151 -Sold
1974 M151A2, Working It!

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rickf
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Re: engine

Unread post by rickf » February 15th, 2021, 2:07 pm

rupert's wrote:
February 15th, 2021, 10:43 am
What bad news! No possibility to repair? Can't remove the cracked and fill with some material? Maybe with cold welding?
I only have the option to buy a carburetor and throw it away? :cry: :cry:

When you remove the valve cover, it has a thick black layer of grime inside, could it be that it has been running with the wrong fuel mixture?
If the engine had been running that rich for a long time then the oil would have had gas in it that passed the rings and it would have been cleaner. If that engine had that carburetor on it I fear it was run without and air filter or an oil change for a very long time. I suggest you start changing the oil frequently using a high quality oil and a new filter each time. This will eventually clean up a lot of the crap in the engine but I have to wonder what condition the bearing are in. How is the oil pressure cold and hot?
Ans no, there is no way to repair that carb. That is a precision drilled orifice and there is no way you you can fix it.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: engine

Unread post by Horst » February 15th, 2021, 3:22 pm

didn't you have the wrong carburetor anyway? One which is not usable for the A2 setup anyway? Guess time for getting the right one...
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » February 15th, 2021, 3:39 pm

rickf wrote:
February 15th, 2021, 2:07 pm
rupert's wrote:
February 15th, 2021, 10:43 am
What bad news! No possibility to repair? Can't remove the cracked and fill with some material? Maybe with cold welding?
I only have the option to buy a carburetor and throw it away? :cry: :cry:

When you remove the valve cover, it has a thick black layer of grime inside, could it be that it has been running with the wrong fuel mixture?
If the engine had been running that rich for a long time then the oil would have had gas in it that passed the rings and it would have been cleaner. If that engine had that carburetor on it I fear it was run without and air filter or an oil change for a very long time. I suggest you start changing the oil frequently using a high quality oil and a new filter each time. This will eventually clean up a lot of the crap in the engine but I have to wonder what condition the bearing are in. How is the oil pressure cold and hot?
Ans no, there is no way to repair that carb. That is a precision drilled orifice and there is no way you you can fix it.
I think I remember that the oil pressure, the needle marks the middle of the marker, I think there is a 30, maybe it is a little but very little below 30, this is cold, in hot I cannot tell you anything because I have only started the engine 10 minutes maximum, because I still do not have documentation
I only start it to regulate the carburetor and little else

As for the bearing, I don't know which bearing you mean ... The crankshaft? How can I know without it being wrong?
Horst wrote:
February 15th, 2021, 3:22 pm
didn't you have the wrong carburetor anyway? One which is not usable for the A2 setup anyway? Guess time for getting the right one...
Hahaha yes Horst! You are absolutely right ... I had planned to change it to the one from a2, but not now, now I have bought many pieces and that is why I wanted to do it later.

But, things come like this, there is no choice but to buy another ...

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Re: engine

Unread post by rickf » February 15th, 2021, 4:08 pm

I was just looking at your video again and I noticed you have a Tee in the fuel line between the filter and the carburetor. Where does the line going off of that T go? That T is not a small orifice I am sure so you are dropping all of your fuel pressure to the carburetor at that point and diverting it to wherever that other line goes. fluid will take the path of least resistance. This is not what is causing your problem (unless that other line is going to the air cleaner!) but it will give you problems once you try to drive it on the road.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » February 15th, 2021, 5:23 pm

Rikf, I have put this pipe to have a fuel return, the carburetor of A1 could not put the outlet for return, I decided to put this T, I have also put a non-return valve, with the intention that it does a little bit of resistance and fuel prefer to go to the carburetor.
Anyway, if I have to buy an A2 carburetor, I will remove this T and I will put in the return of the carburetor itself.

Saludos

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Re: engine

Unread post by rickf » February 15th, 2021, 5:33 pm

Ok, but just so you are aware, this is not designed as a "fuel" return. It is a vapor return so that if you have a vapor lock situation the bubbles can return to the tank and the fluid will go to the carb. If you look at an A2 carb, take that return fitting off and look at the size of the orifice in there, you are not returning much fuel through that!
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » March 19th, 2021, 6:51 pm

I finally got the new A2 carburettor, rebuilt, with new gaskets and carburettor, I only had to adjust the throttle screw and the idling problems are already solved, now the engine sounds good. :D :D :D :D I also have the return where it has to go, not where I had it before ...

After I have turned around, I will have done like 1 km or 2! finally, after so long I have been able to enjoy a while.

Although ... sadly, the complete happiness has lasted a short time, the gearbox pulls valve, it seems that the valve comes out of a point between the axis of the handbrake and the flange of the rear transmission, I put a picture
fuga caja de cambios.jpg
I am almost sure that out there it comes out or everything or almost everything, is it possible? Does anyone know any solution?

Tomorrow I'm going to take another lap, this time a little longer, I hope no more problems arise. Greetings to all
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Horst
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Re: engine

Unread post by Horst » March 20th, 2021, 3:33 am

I am assuming you talk about oil coming out at the mentioned location. This is where 2 rivets hold a thrust washer inside the transfer. These rivets need to be sealed with some sealer, I use black silicone.
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » March 20th, 2021, 3:56 am

Horst wrote:
March 20th, 2021, 3:33 am
I am assuming you talk about oil coming out at the mentioned location. This is where 2 rivets hold a thrust washer inside the transfer. These rivets need to be sealed with some sealer, I use black silicone.
How easy! Understood Horst, today I seal it to see if the leak is solved! A hug!

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Re: engine

Unread post by Horst » March 20th, 2021, 3:59 am

Yes, but only if that is actually the issue. Typically the seal at the emergency brake is also an issue. Good thing is that it is easy to change.
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga

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Re: engine

Unread post by rupert's » March 28th, 2021, 6:26 pm

Horst wrote:
March 20th, 2021, 3:59 am
Yes, but only if that is actually the issue. Typically the seal at the emergency brake is also an issue. Good thing is that it is easy to change.
Horst! after sealing these rivets there has not come out any valvulin again.
There the leaks did not end, there was another in the transmission, I put an image so that you can see where the valve came out.
1616969882350.jpg
There the valve came out through that ring, I have sealed it and it has not returned.
Un saludo
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Re: engine

Unread post by rickf » March 28th, 2021, 8:57 pm

That is another common leak and is caused most of the time by someone forcing the yoke on too fast and not letting the trapped air escape. It then pops that plug out. If you got it to seal you are lucky, usually they need to be replaced.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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