upper and lower ball joint replacement

[Horst]

Here in Germany you have present your car every second year for a technical inspection. Even a smog check if your car is from 1969 or younger, so good thing my A2 is registered as a M151 from 1968...

While I did not expect anything to be found, the contrary was the case. Inspector did not like that the upper and lower ball joints have cracks in the rubber sleeve so I need to replace them both. Only visible if the car is lifted in the front and the suspension hanging down. I checked the TM on the replacement of both, anyone has any good advice beyond that on how to remove them without too much trouble?

Front differential is also leaking at the front (unused) pinion but I assume replacing that seal is straightforward. If not, I still have 2 NOS diffs somewhere.

[rickf]

Make sure the leak is at the seal and not coming down the splines on the yoke. I remember a long time ago you mentioned that over there you were still able to get seal kits without the wear sleeve. You may want to get one with the sleeves if you do the repair. On both differentials I just tore down they had substantial grooves from the seals in the yokes. Three had sleeves that could just be cut off and replaced and one was an original.

The boots on the ball joints are another issue, There was a manufacturer over there that was trying out some for the tie rods but I don't know what ever happened, he never followed through with them. I don't know if he has any for the ball joints or not. 12Bravo on here was dealing with him and would have his name and you might be able to check and maybe match something up.

[Horst]

good point on making sure that the oil is not coming down the splines. I think I remember the TM says that this are should be covered with some type of sealer. As you know, my jeep has now 6.000 miles since new, so I am not expecting any significant grooves and was at such hoping that the rubber seal is just dried out.

I have ordered one ball joint ea upper and lower as NOS parts from the Czech source I had tried a few days ago. So question is just about replacing those as I have not done this before. Don't want to use brute force if not needed

[rickf]

The ball joints just bolt in, they are on their own mounts.

Here is the thread on the dust boots, I think the manufacturer is mentioned in there somewhere.

https://g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12274

[Horst]

the joints will just pop out ?

[acudanut]

Yes, you may need a pickle fork to free the tie rods. Very easy work. Boots should work from many other types of older cars.

[m3a1]

Just spitballing here but we may find out that replacement cups for ball joints might cross over from 70's Ford Galaxies or similar. Perhaps 12Bravo could be enticed to comment on that.

Historically, Ford enjoys plucking parts from their parts bins and making them work on their other products so this is not outside the realm of possibility.

Cheers,
TJ

[acudanut]

Make sure the leak is at the seal and not coming down the splines on the yoke. I remember a long time ago you mentioned that over there you were still able to get seal kits without the wear sleeve. You may want to get one with the sleeves if you do the repair. On both differentials I just tore down they had substantial grooves from the seals in the yokes. Three had sleeves that could just be cut off and replaced and one was an original.

The boots on the ball joints are another issue, There was a manufacturer over there that was trying out some for the tie rods but I don't know what ever happened, he never followed through with them. I don't know if he has any for the ball joints or not. 12Bravo on here was dealing with him and would have his name and you might be able to check and maybe match something up.
[/quote

Having a hard time thinking on what you mean. Pictures ?...Make sure the leak is at the seal and not coming down the splines on the yoke.

[acudanut]

Many ballpoints can use many different rubber boots. Look at 40-50 year old cars. Easy fix.

[rupert's]

I cannot give you a specific process because although I have changed all the ball joints I had the suspension cradle disassembled ... It is different.
When you release the nut from the ball joints, the damping spring will push your arm down with force and then you will have to compress it to put the nut back on the new ball joint.
The ball joints are fastened by 3 screws

Greetings

[svramselaar]

hi
horst

if you not go to water fording i use for several years poly boots (free shipping )
if there is no play at the joints
we have not the TUF bud the APK its the same test

george